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Post by strummer on Mar 26, 2019 16:20:33 GMT -5
Very nice indeed...
Mark in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Mar 16, 2019 10:05:59 GMT -5
Hi there, Just digging up an old post I finally took some time to fix my problem with replacing the GP7 front pilot and exchange the coupler with MTL coupler. This is a first test that is very successful: I designed a pilot in which a MTL #905 coupler fit. With this actual version as shown below, I only need to reduce the length and angled sides of the coupler, then I simply insert it in the pilot. I've tested it without glue or screw and it works just fine. The pilot with coupler simply needs to be "clipped on" the GP7 body: NO glue, NO screw I'm now adjusting the pilot so you only need to reduce the length of the coupler body. Soon If you need some let me know! Charlie Very nicely done! Mark in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Mar 2, 2019 15:55:30 GMT -5
BTW: with all the BAZboys leaving the Bay Area, perhaps BAZ should stand for: Backwoods Area Z? Mark Why? What's going on in the "Bay Area"? Mark (the one) in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Feb 26, 2019 10:44:30 GMT -5
In all my packs the joiners were loose under and around the turnouts. There's 3-4 joiners per pack. And speaking of joiners, something RobA pointed out to me over the weekend, the supplied joiners are shorter than the standard Atlas code 55:
If the shorter ones are required all round, then we're going to need more short joiners than provided and I don't see anything other than the standard 2535 on Atlas site.
Mark
Mark Have you tried to use "standard size" joiners on this and if so, did they fit ok? I ask because I have a bunch of the regular size joiners, so if they indeed do fit, I won't sweat it...thanks! Mark (this one) in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Jan 24, 2018 21:29:09 GMT -5
Terrific.
Can you tell us more about the over-all construction? For example, what brand of track?
Mark in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Jan 21, 2018 10:56:58 GMT -5
If you are referring to the MTL GP shells, not hard at all. The instructions that come with the loco. Basically you insert 2 toothpicks into slots between the forward truck to release the catches and pull. Mark I used to use toothpicks; every now and then, however, the pick would slip as I was inserting it, and I managed to chip a bit of paint off the fuel tank area. I learned from another Z scale site the idea of using flexible guitar picks; being flat and wide, they spread the "tension" out over a broader surface, so the chance of splitting the shell, or chipping the paint is lessened. I use "Jim Dunlop" .060 picks, available at any music store... Mark (the one) in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Jan 3, 2018 22:34:00 GMT -5
...hoping the Atlas turnouts will be available this year...
Mark in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Jan 3, 2018 11:52:43 GMT -5
Call micro-trains. I have ordered them direct. Trey Indeed. I have found them to be very helpful, with reasonable shipping charges to boot! Mark (like Micro Trains) in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Dec 24, 2017 23:10:36 GMT -5
FWIW. I would agree with most of what's already been said except: 1. For me anyway, I don't find working on the small size of Z all that daunting; sure, it is small, but I find I use an "Optivisor" regardless of what scale model I happen to be working on, so the tiny screws in Z only really seem tiny when I try to look at them without the magnifier! 2. Track: don't forget about the Atlas brand. Hopefully sometime this year we will have turnouts available to go along with their beautiful flex track. I know Mark (the other one) mentioned it (Atlas) in his post, but again, having those turnouts may prove to be a "game changer". Merry Christmas to all, and to all a good night... Mark (the one) in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Dec 4, 2017 12:05:56 GMT -5
MarkM
I thought the new Atlas turnouts are to be #6s, whereas the Marklins are #5s; do I have that wrong?
Mark (the one) in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Dec 3, 2017 22:39:53 GMT -5
...(the other) MarkM is correct, about both the height and the rail joiners.
Marklin does mate with both Atlas and MTL, although indeed there is a slight difference. I think the Marklin rails are just a hair "larger" over all, whereas the Atlas and MTL rails are pretty close.
All of which kind of makes sense...I'd go with the Atlas for sure, and then get some of those new switches when they come out!
Mark (this one) in Oregon
PS: I mentioned the MTL simply because I have tried it with the other brands.
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Post by strummer on Nov 29, 2017 16:08:44 GMT -5
I see Jordan Highway Miniatures makes a liquid that is used for making window "glass" in small areas, like their vehicles, etc.
Gee... I wonder if that would work for filling in those spaces in the earlier releases of the MTL F7s, since the windows they offer will only fit the later models.
Anyone here already try it?
Mark in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Nov 29, 2017 15:58:01 GMT -5
Just looked it up; it's not bad, although to my mind it reminds me of the older-style school houses I grew up with in Connecticut, more than a train station. But hey, if it works, right? Mark in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Nov 28, 2017 23:18:15 GMT -5
And I hope you know that was in no way intended as a knock on your work..........it just really stands out in that picture. What can be done to get them coupled more closely? A fair question, I think... Mark in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Nov 28, 2017 12:23:20 GMT -5
FWIW: I had to replace some Marklin wheels, and opted for the Fox Valley product: they are slightly blackened, so they look great. I used the 36" size on these.
The rolling qualities were also vastly improved, so I may replace the wheel sets (33" wheels) on all my MTLs as well.
Mark in Oregon
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