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Post by strummer on Sept 14, 2017 0:03:36 GMT -5
Welcome.
Although it sounds like your mind is ready made up to not attempt to fix it yourself, might I suggest you wait for a few replies? There is a ton of very useful information regarding repair on the 'web, as well as forums such as this one...
I only recently acquired a couple of Marklin locos, both steam and diesel; they all needed to be taken down, cleaned and lubed,(which I was able to do myself without much fuss) and they now all run really well.
Can you give us the item number of your engine? I'm guessing it was running(?) and now it is not. Let's see if we can trouble-shoot it before you send it somewhere for repair...
Mark in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Sept 7, 2017 9:15:59 GMT -5
Those look really nice... Mark in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Aug 29, 2017 15:59:48 GMT -5
.... ... To continue this discussion, I'm finding I have to pull the roadbed joiners, connect two pieces and then (very carefully!) bend the pieces in a slight "v"; otherwise, they will display kind of a "hump" at the joint. After doing this little operation (and re-installing the roadbed joiners, of course!) the track will lay (more or less) flat. I did not have this issue with any of the MTL track I purchased in the past few years... Mark in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Aug 24, 2017 17:36:40 GMT -5
Sure they are...but they do look better, don't you think? Mark in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Aug 24, 2017 9:08:06 GMT -5
...good point...
Mark in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Aug 23, 2017 20:11:10 GMT -5
Neat! It was an awesome experience here on the coast as well...
Mark in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Aug 23, 2017 9:23:19 GMT -5
This is an interesting discussion. I too have a mix of body and truck-mounted MTL cars. I don't suppose it really does make too much of a difference, at least not to me, as I don't foresee myself doing a lot of switching maneuvers; I just like to sit back and watch 'em run! Mark in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Aug 8, 2017 18:01:23 GMT -5
That's an interesting item. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't work with the MTL joiners, as they have a different shape to them. I know this because after I entered my previous post, I checked to see if the Atlas (and Micro Engineering) code 55 joiners I have would be a suitable replacement for the MTL items. Both the Atlas and ME joiners are basically small versions of almost any "standard" rail joiner: the MTL joiner has a distinctly different shape. So.... ...they do "fit" the rails, but given the difference in design they are a shade too loose, so I doubt that tool would work. I may be wrong.... Mark in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Aug 7, 2017 23:49:50 GMT -5
FWIW, I just today received a pack of the 220mm straight tracks, and sure enough, all I've used and checked so far have the "index pins", but the rail joiners are definitely much tighter and harder to connect than previous MTL tracks I've purchased. In fact, I've had to "lever" open some of them slightly with a very fine screwdriver; otherwise, I couldn't get them to connect at all.
Seems a bit odd...
Mark in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Mar 22, 2017 21:39:33 GMT -5
My initial and main questions were about the Atlas Flex track ... Atlas Flex track is wonderful. Best, -Rob(A) AZL Rob (A) Can you elaborate? Am about ready to purchase some, and would like to get some thoughts as to its quality, appearance and its "workability". Thanks. Mark in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Mar 22, 2017 21:28:53 GMT -5
I realize this was a poll for the locomotives, but I personally think the next "Big Thing" for Z scale needs to be large (#8s and up) switches. Now that Atlas has entered this scale with its flex track, it would be a good time to take Z out of the "layout in a guitar case" stage and show what can really be done in Z! For example, the 2-6-6-2 or 2-8-8-2 mentioned (or any loco, for that matter) would look so much better going through an 8 or #10, as opposed to a #5... Mark in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Mar 9, 2017 2:00:13 GMT -5
Greg
You're probably right; I should have started a new thread. I just figured since this one was about "voltage", it would be a logical place to "piggy back" my question onto.
And I think you're also correct about about the lack of current coming from the Rokuhan unit; this Aristo device has always worked very well, when supplying it with 12-16V.
alberich:
Although I get what you're saying, as I mentioned I have used the Aristo unit with a Troller "Autopulse" which, as the name implies, delivers PWM as a matter of its design, so I don't believe that using a pulse-type power source poses any problems. At least I have not experienced any thus far.
My thanks to you both for your input.
Mark in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Mar 8, 2017 18:42:15 GMT -5
Even though this is not about "nominal voltage" per se, I pose this question: I have an Aristo Craft "Train Engineer" Remote Control unit: it connects between your power source (with the power turned up as high as "max") and the track. A hand-held then controls the train. I have used this with several different types of power packs, from older MRC "ControlMaster V" to Troller "Autopulse" units, and it works fine...really well, actually. I find this unit works very well in N, HO and O (DC) scales. One of the features I like is that as soon as you begin to "power up", the highlight come on to full brightness. I guess this is because the voltage to the track is constant(?) The range of speed control is also very good. I'd like to try this with my Z scale stuff; was planning on using my Rokuhan RC 02 as the power source. Can anyone here think of a reason why this may not be safe to use? I could just go ahead and try it, but am fearful I might burn up a loco in the process... Mark in Oregon UPDATE: Because I'm impatient, I went ahead and tried this. It did not work. The only reason I can figure is that the wires from the Rokuhan unit are very, very thin, whereas the ones built-into the Aristo Craft item are full size gauge, like a lamp cord. The Rokuhan couldn't supply enough "juice" to power the Aristo unit...(?) Oh well, at least I didn't blow up a loco testing it.
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Post by strummer on Mar 6, 2017 17:29:10 GMT -5
Thanks. Because I've done this (in all scales) a lot over the years, I'm pretty quick, so burning the toothpick is not an issue. And if I do, there's lots more where that came from! Mark in Oregon
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Post by strummer on Mar 6, 2017 14:58:27 GMT -5
I just did up a bunch of Atlas joiners the other day. Slipped them onto a tooth pick, applied a (tiny) bit of flux, and soldered away...using rosin, not acid based. I rather like soldering... Mark in Oregon
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