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Post by Deleted on Feb 20, 2017 15:31:20 GMT -5
Hello again ... I fear that soldering directly to the tracks could damage the plastic parts, in case of "overheating". Now I remember the "Arnold solution" (the only good thing together with their ballasting system  ), it was that the wires could be soldered to the rail joiners instead of the rails, they sold such connections ready-made. If I solder a pair of wires to every pair of joiners (i.e. every 66cm, Märklin), it could work ; I don't think that the joiners lose the contact too easily, and at both ends ot a section of track simultaneously ! They seem to be fixed rather firmly ... What do You think about this solution ? It would be more safe, because there would be no plastic parts which could get damaged ... Thanks for Your suggestions ! |
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Post by markm on Feb 20, 2017 16:01:37 GMT -5
Aberich,
Yes you can solder to the rail joiners. It's a bit tricky. Try placing the joiners part way on to a piece of scrap rail to hold them for soldering. Atlas makes ready-made power joiners for Z (code 55 track). I would think that some N scale manufacturer there would be doing the same since code 55 can also be used in N.
Mark
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Post by Deleted on Feb 20, 2017 16:36:59 GMT -5
Thank You Markm ; it's perhaps a bit tricky, but less risky than melting the plastic parts ! I don't need already made connections, I have a good soldering iron with adjustable, stabilized temperature, and I will use some solder made for electronics with welding flux (not RoHS  ... ) |
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Post by markm on Feb 20, 2017 18:33:45 GMT -5
I would suggest you look into the RoHS solder products available to you. Generally the soldering flux is easier to clean up and the solder melts at lower temperatures. Personally I like using a flux paste containing the solder particles.
Mark
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Post by BAZman on Feb 20, 2017 22:18:15 GMT -5
Your layout should run fine, without soldering ! The Z scale locomotives draw so low of a current, it's not perceivable so see any speed change or strange operation.
Why don't you try that first?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 21, 2017 0:33:42 GMT -5
Greg Elmassian is right : when I assemble PCB's with "older" solder, not RoHS, I have to set my iron approx to 260 degrees Celsius ; if I have to de/re-solder some wires on newer (RoHS) products, I must select (at least) 330 degrees.
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Post by markm on Feb 21, 2017 1:21:26 GMT -5
I guess I have access to solders more exotic than most. Solder selection depends on the materials and the soldering technique and RoHS applies to flux as well as the solder. Check out: www.mouser.com/ds/2/213/kester_300105-317675.pdf particularly page 19 for the temperature ranges for common solders. The key items to look for is the lowest working temperature solder and water clean up flux that's available to you. Mark |
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Post by domi on Mar 4, 2017 9:56:33 GMT -5
Myself I'm indeed soldering feeders to rail joigners and I don't find this tricky at all.  Dom |
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Post by strummer on Mar 6, 2017 14:58:27 GMT -5
I just did up a bunch of Atlas joiners the other day. Slipped them onto a tooth pick, applied a (tiny) bit of flux, and soldered away...using rosin, not acid based. I rather like soldering... Mark in Oregon |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 6, 2017 15:30:13 GMT -5
And with solder especially made for electronics (with integrated flux) ? Or "compound paste" for smd's in a syringe ? I think the idea with the tooth pick is better than a piece of rail, because it doesn't lead the heat away from the joiner.
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Post by strummer on Mar 6, 2017 17:29:10 GMT -5
Thanks. Because I've done this (in all scales) a lot over the years, I'm pretty quick, so burning the toothpick is not an issue. And if I do, there's lots more where that came from! Mark in Oregon |
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), it was that the wires could be soldered to the rail joiners instead of the rails, they sold such connections ready-made. If I solder a pair of wires to every pair of joiners (i.e. every 66cm, Märklin), it could work ; I don't think that the joiners lose the contact too easily, and at both ends ot a section of track simultaneously ! They seem to be fixed rather firmly ...
... )
