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Post by modelwarships on Aug 1, 2014 12:03:43 GMT -5
Do a search and exclude the items you don't want included. You can save the search for getting the results you want.
Try putting this in your search field: z scale -marklin
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Post by modelwarships on Jul 28, 2014 9:50:33 GMT -5
Come on Robert, I'm going to run out of money before this ever makes it to the market.
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Post by modelwarships on Jul 14, 2014 11:56:40 GMT -5
Is it safe to assume that ATSF SD75i is the July Part 2 release since #208 and #211 grace the back cover of the latest ZTrack magazine? If so can you tell me what other road numbers are going to be released? I have CB&Q GP-7 #208 and that will conflict with ATSF #208 if programmed in DCC.
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Post by modelwarships on Jul 10, 2014 14:00:00 GMT -5
It's a slip fit. I just take a small flat bladed screwdriver and insert it in between the walkway and the fuel tank. Give it a slight (gentle) twist. That has been all mine needed to separate the shell from the frame.
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Post by modelwarships on Jul 9, 2014 21:10:44 GMT -5
I ended up replacing all my MTL turnouts with Rokohan. I rarely have derailments now, but I have thrown the breaker a few time when throwing switches manually. Evidently the frog polarity can change before the points move creating a short. Doesn't seem to happen when using the power to throw the switches.
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SD70
Jul 2, 2014 20:38:50 GMT -5
Post by modelwarships on Jul 2, 2014 20:38:50 GMT -5
Has AZL considered either modifying the DC light board to not use the extended LED and instead use a longer light pipe, or at least supplying a longer light pipe for us DCC folks? What will you be doing for factory modified DCC units?
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Post by modelwarships on Jul 2, 2014 20:19:06 GMT -5
You know it's more than just having all your engines sitting on the track with their lights on. It's about being able to make up a consist in the same block, adding helpers, and being able to move many different trains without a maze of wiring and switches. Once you add that freedom to your layout, it's hard to go back. I have 50+ HO engines with only a dozen DCC'd, and a layout that can switch from DCC to DC. It's a lot of money to do it, but to me it's worth it. In Z I have been converting all my engines to DCC. I will retain the ability to go DC, but probably will never use it again. But to each their own, this is a hobby and we should all enjoy it how we see fit.
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Post by modelwarships on Jun 30, 2014 22:00:41 GMT -5
Another CSX and still no BNSF or SF?
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Post by modelwarships on Jun 27, 2014 14:48:39 GMT -5
I like my GP-38's. I now have 7 of them. I find that anything over 2/3 throttle is a bit fast. I find that the only thing I really need to do to them is keep the wheels clean and the lint out of the gears. Also make sure your electrical pickup from the trucks are making good solid contact with the frame contact strips.
FYI the GP-30, GP-7/9 have pretty much the same performance characteristics. I do find that if they sit for a few weeks, they start out running really slow and benefit from a little warmup.
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Post by modelwarships on Jun 12, 2014 20:31:26 GMT -5
Very nice looking model! Well done! but... I am waiting impatiently for the BNSF SD75Is. Me too, but the granddaughters like the Horsey trains. So I guess this will be my first SD-70 purchase.
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Post by modelwarships on May 30, 2014 9:08:45 GMT -5
YES! I have to have one of these. Maybe a couple more to repaint in BN and N&W.
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Post by modelwarships on May 21, 2014 19:36:03 GMT -5
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SD70
May 5, 2014 10:57:17 GMT -5
Post by modelwarships on May 5, 2014 10:57:17 GMT -5
What? Still no BNSF? You guys are killing me.
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SD70
May 2, 2014 14:44:57 GMT -5
Post by modelwarships on May 2, 2014 14:44:57 GMT -5
Isn't it time for a May new item announcement??? hint hint.
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 29, 2014 19:44:24 GMT -5
I have 7 GP-38's now and only one problem. One unit and also GP-30 had problems when installing a decoder. I find that you need to make sure tabs from the decoder tabs contact the engine power tabs on the motor. Mine were too far apart and the torque of the motor would cause it to break contact. This was not a case of making sure the bend angle of the tabs was correct (like you see in some tips), but rather that the motor tabs were not staying in contact with them. I bent the tabs on the motor slightly inward by inserting an exacto knife blade between the frame and tab and gently twisting it to bend it slightly inward. Make sure you retain the insulating tape to keep the tabs isolated from the frame. This may not be your problem, but I am just going to pass this along just in case.
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