|
Post by rvn2001 on Sept 18, 2015 16:43:40 GMT -5
That's great, Rob!!
Now anyone with a printer can print the decal without any changes and apply it to their loco.
Excellent!!!
|
|
|
Post by rvn2001 on Jul 14, 2015 1:28:33 GMT -5
I received my MP E-8 in the mail last week. I picked up paint Saturday and received the book "Missouri Pacific Passenger Trains The Postwar Years" in the mail today. I hope to do one of the first 2 6-car Eagle trains delivered in February of 1940.
|
|
|
Post by rvn2001 on Jul 11, 2015 20:32:29 GMT -5
You, obviously, need a nice passenger terminal where you can store all of these trains on the layout. ;-)
|
|
|
Post by rvn2001 on Jun 28, 2015 20:05:31 GMT -5
Dave, I would have been happy to explain the wobbling to you if you had introduced yourself and bothered to ask me. I've been running Z scale trains since 1972 when Marklin introduced the scale in the U.S.A.. It was pulling a maximum load around a tighter-than-normal flex-track radius curve and the driving wheels were binding slightly on that curve. Any other wobbling that occurred was at the expansion tracks between modules. They run very well and aren't too difficult to put on the track. You just need to be careful that you don't let the tender and locomotive separate. I bought this loco used but I'm still very happy with it's performance. I don't know if you've ever watched a real steam loco run but they all wobble as they go down the track.
I hope this answers your questions, Thom Welsch MidweZt HaulerZ.
|
|
|
Post by rvn2001 on Apr 19, 2015 13:47:21 GMT -5
I have mounted a MTL body-mount coupler to the body of my Marklin baggage car so that I could run it with other MFGs locos.
|
|
|
Post by rvn2001 on Apr 10, 2015 14:42:22 GMT -5
I always remind people who claim that Z scale is too small that it's 2/3 the size of N scale and not 1/2 like in most scales. We still get spectators who say they've never seen Z scale before and ask how new it is. I think it surprises them when I tell them it's been around since 1972. I suspect that you'll hear from other people that they have some Z but didn't realize that you could do a real layout with it.
Have a great time at the show.
|
|
|
Post by rvn2001 on Feb 27, 2015 17:45:42 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by rvn2001 on Jan 30, 2015 0:20:16 GMT -5
Mark,
It sounds like you'll just have to buy 3 #6051 units and paint the shells....just like the real thing.
Thom
|
|
|
Post by rvn2001 on Jan 20, 2015 12:24:24 GMT -5
Will; The batteries are CR-1/3N batteries. They're 3 volts each so the way I've got them supplies 9 volts. I buy the batteries on-line. Just type CR-1/3N into a search engine and you'll find them. They are not rechargeable and last about 45 minutes on the average. I run DC only so I would need a voltage converter to power the camera and transmitter from the rails. You would need a constant 9 volts DC. The camera doesn't weigh very much so the batteries would be the heaviest items. I usually run at least 2 locos to a train at shows and I've had the camera in the middle of a 13-car container train....including the camera car. www.youtube.com/user/hawk5250/videosThe above link should be to my videos on YouTube. The MidweZt HaulerZ videos and the Ride on the C&FW video were shot using this camera car. Thom
|
|
|
Post by rvn2001 on Jan 20, 2015 9:41:50 GMT -5
Sorry it took me some time to get this together but I built it a long time ago. The flat car is an Alan Curtis 89" flatcar. The camera is the type you can buy from Walther's or Micro-Mark. Everything is mounted to the flatcar with double-sided tape. I shortened a AA battery holder to hold 3 CR-1/3N batteries. If you remove the connector from the camera, like I did, you'll need to install a 7805 since the camera operates on 5 volts and the wireless transmitter operates on 9 volts. I scratch-built a series of crates to cover everything except the camera. You can find pics here: www.flickr.com/photos/rvn20012000/sets/72157624173547293/Thom Welsch
|
|
|
Post by rvn2001 on Jan 16, 2015 3:20:00 GMT -5
My wireless video car is an Alan Curtis flat car. It has body-mount couplers. I use 2 well cars, one in front and the other behind the video car, when I run the video car in the middle of the train. I installed body-mount couplers to one end of each of the well cars and those connect to the video car via the body-mount couplers. The well cars used to derail until I changed the truck-mounted couplers on one end to body-mount. A body-mount coupler on the car connected to the loco might do the trick for you.
|
|
|
Post by rvn2001 on Oct 4, 2014 19:24:41 GMT -5
Trey,
The AZL web site shows silver trucks. You might want to check with Rob Kluz. Maybe he can just swap them for you.
Thom
|
|
|
Post by rvn2001 on Apr 14, 2014 9:40:13 GMT -5
That's OK, Hans. I already have a Baldwin Sharknose. (lol)
|
|
|
Post by rvn2001 on Mar 19, 2014 8:36:05 GMT -5
Hi Mark,
Take a short piece of rail and form a point on one end. Put the other end into a piece of wood or an old tool handle if you have one lying around. The point on the one end will open up the joiner as you insert it. You'll have the whole joiner opened up to the right size by the time you've got it all past the pointed end. You can grab the joiner with a small pliers on the sides to save your fingers.
Hope this helps, Thom
|
|
|
Post by rvn2001 on Mar 4, 2014 5:27:56 GMT -5
I don't know about the RDCs but everything else they've released as undecorated has been naked plastic.
|
|