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Post by modelwarships on Apr 19, 2020 20:40:27 GMT -5
Before trying the Snapper, I corresponded with Steve Worack @ Circuitron and explained what I was wanting to do. Yes the machine is designed for twin coil, but provides a nice "snap" of current that consistently throws the points like I need it to. I have 3 double crossovers and 14 standard turnouts. Other than the double crossovers, I am only operating one or two at a time. I will check back later to give an update on how it is going, but I am thrilled. I know that a genuine Rokuhan controller is the best solution for their own turnouts, but if you have more than a half dozen to operate it gets awkward. I like the schematic style panel so I can visually control my routes. Some of the solutions posted here seem cool, but I wore my self out soldering 6 wires on each DPDT switch 14 times over and was not up for the anything else.
As for my use of the Snapper, it's simple the two feed wires for the turnout control panel run to the incoming wire of the Circuitron Snapper and the output feeds the buss for my switches. Supper simple and effective. I will update my wiring diagram and post it tomorrow for anyone who wants to go this route.
If I do anything else it will be to DCC the whole setup and use an old Android tablet to control them CTC style. But I have enough $$$ tied up in this old coffee table now as it is.
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 18, 2020 10:32:06 GMT -5
UPDATE: I installed the Circuitron Snapper upstream of my DPDT center off momentary switches and can verify that it works WELL!!! I had one other pair of turnouts that I had earmarked for replacement due to frequent incomplete throwing of the points. I had assumed that I was too careless with the scenic glue and this was hanging them up, but now they throw consistently! In fact all turnouts are operating reliably. I wish I had tried this before replacing some of the others as I used them to test on before risking my newly installed ones and they snap back and forth like new.
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 18, 2020 8:14:50 GMT -5
My $.02 to AZL is to invest a few more $$ in your runs on these new releases. The growing list of sold out items is testimony that there is more demand for your products than supply. Maybe increase the product run by 10-20% to reduce the amount of potential customers who missed out on a hot new release. Some of us are very passionate about our hobby and get ticked off when the cool new releases are snapped up before we can even get to log on.
That said, thank you for keeping Z alive, I'm looking forward to more!
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 10, 2020 10:24:45 GMT -5
Than you for the insight. Maybe the best solution is the most obvious and that would be to make the AZL Engine a transition one with body mount up front and truck mount on the rear. It kind of limits you on where they can be placed in the consist but hey I like my more detailed engines leading and I like to match up my consists anyway. I have a GP50 (AZL/Gerd) set up that way, but it is more for scale appearance than operation and I don't want to ruin it. I figure doing one end like Domi's Genesee & Wyoming GP38-2 build but with an auto-latch and leaving the other end truck mount should work. If that works out than I get to have fun speed matching my U30C (MTL SD40-2) with a more AZL friendly speed table. Rob, I hope you guys will be adding to the parts section of your website. I'd like to see items like those P42 coupler assy and perhaps the coupler pockets with the screw mount that go on the Lightweight Observation Cars.
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 9, 2020 20:59:54 GMT -5
While we all wait for a proper SD40-2 to be released I am trying to MU an AZL SD45 with a U30C on a custom (Gerd) MTL SD40-2 chassis. The photo show the offset on a R220 curve. I swapped out the broken MTL coupler for an Auto-latch and it works fine on straight track, but derails on virtually every switch and curve. The MTL coupler was more flexible, but is constantly letting go on the grades. I am wondering if something like the P42 body mount couplers would be better. I had to drastically shorten the back half of the standard AZL coupler box to clear the trucks as it is. At this point I'm tempted to open up the rear pilot and attempt to attach a coupler to the truck.
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 9, 2020 20:26:35 GMT -5
Canceled for the year or are they considering a later date?
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 9, 2020 17:37:55 GMT -5
Got the wiring on my turnouts connected to the control panel of my layout and have been running trains to fine tune the track work. I need to shim a few turnouts to eliminate the grade change where they connect, but it's almost time to put the glass back on. I will do a more finished looking control panel when I'm done testing. The opposite end of the lower drawer will be for storage as I have way more engines and rolling stock than will ever fit in my layout. When I get too bored, I can change the era to match the mood I'm in.
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 5, 2020 0:18:52 GMT -5
Both low headlight GP38-2's. I know of only two that had the high headlight like the AZL version: BNSF 2094 (later modified to low headlight). BNSF 2099 (Silver ATSF style silver trucks, fuel tank and under-frame). First Thank you for offering more GP38-2's. I have a lot of these and except for a batch with the crumbling frames most are still racking up miles on my layout. Now for the dig: If you guys are going to use the same old tooling to represent every road number, please at least check pics of the prototype. Finally thanks for the Frisco unit, it is close to prototype. Next up, how about some BN white face versions?
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 3, 2020 20:09:49 GMT -5
I bought a few SD70's with this in mind. However it's more than the trucks. You need that distinctive angled blower duct on the side and some minor grill work.
But I agree with the need for AZL to offer one, and SD60 triclops and 2 window wide cab.
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 3, 2020 20:02:47 GMT -5
What other road numbers of BNSF are you doing?
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Post by modelwarships on Mar 23, 2020 7:11:49 GMT -5
Sad news. Prayers for his family and friends.
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Post by modelwarships on Mar 20, 2020 5:38:20 GMT -5
Awesome news I will take a half dozen green ones to start. Finally proper power for my coal trains.
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Post by modelwarships on Mar 19, 2020 14:13:25 GMT -5
I already have the DPDT momentary switches in place and they work. I'm thinking about just putting a capacitor between the power supply and the switches. That way whichever switch is thrown will get the pulse of power from the capacitor. My concern would be how much delay for recharging would be and would it be sufficient to pause the flow through the DPDT switch if one is slow to release the switch. I don't really want to reinvent the wheel here, just make sure each flip of the switch has the right pulse to fully throw the points. Maybe just adapt a Circuitron Snapper Power Supply?
I suspect the problems I am having with the Rokuhan turnouts is largely a ballast or scenic glue intrusion or friction issue. I have some extra Teflon tape that I may try sealing up the bottom of these turnouts to ensure a friction free surface for the slider handle to move on. After all I don't want have to reach in and fix them every time they fail to throw completely.
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Post by modelwarships on Mar 18, 2020 13:43:31 GMT -5
What about pulsing on the supply side? Hitting the switch would empty the capacitor and cutout while it recharged long enough for fat finger to get off the switch handle.
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Post by modelwarships on Mar 17, 2020 12:01:05 GMT -5
I have all my turnouts wire to the control panel. Don't laugh at the temporary makings. I am going to punch a larger one to give a more finished look. I am a little frustrated with the Rokuhan turnouts. They don't seem to throw consistently everytime. I sometimes have to throw them back and forth and I still get the occasional derailment from one that didn't fully activate. I'm wondering if my voltage is too low (6 volt wall wart). But I am afraid to fry them too. I remember someone had a circuit that sent a pulse and then cut out. I may need to do that myself.
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