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Post by modelwarships on Jun 14, 2020 22:33:41 GMT -5
I have had some success in dimpling the strip where it fits into the slot. Helps hold it in place so you can reassemble. One of my SD70ACE's had the strips fall out when I pulled the shell to convert to DCC. Just place the strip on a piece of wood and drive a tiny nail into the middle part of the strip. If you overdo it, just flatten it out with needle nose pliers and try again.
The ultimate fix is to replace the strip with a wire soldered to the truck tabs and connected directly to the frame. . It eliminate the sometimes poor electrical contact that occurs with this type of elec pickup. I have a really old GP38 running around the layout that never seems to stall anywhere due to poor contact. I am seriously considering retro fitting my entire fleet in this manner.
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Post by modelwarships on Jun 14, 2020 22:01:01 GMT -5
I love it and definitely don't have enough NP. Is it possible to see the inner chassis so we can get an idea of the hurdles we will have to endure for DCC.
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Post by modelwarships on Jun 9, 2020 23:13:39 GMT -5
I can vouch for AZL promptly replacing a defective chassis. I have purchased a bunch of 38's over the years and many were afflicted with the decay. AZL replaced every single one and I appreciate their quick response. I have been able to return some of my favorite engines to service.
I do hope that AZL will consider offering these new upgraded chassis for those who might be scratch building. There are shells sold on Shapeways for example and it would be a shame to have to buy a complete engine just for the chassis.
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Post by modelwarships on May 31, 2020 22:45:25 GMT -5
Besides putting your loco and cars back in the jewel cases or letting them rattle around in a box, what are you all doing for ready storage? I lined my storage drawer temporarily with cleaning cloths with wood strips to create rows, but would like something more substantial that fine details will not snag on.
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Post by modelwarships on May 13, 2020 21:56:03 GMT -5
Check the bottom plate of the truck. It can pop off the little tab and let the coupler box droop down. It's pretty easy to snap them back in place.
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 28, 2020 22:14:07 GMT -5
DCC is *possible* - there is a space inside that may have just enough space for a small, thin decoder (I'm thinking TCS Z2 *BUT* I have NOT confirmed it - yet) Please advise what you find out. I'm all in for DCC with 2/3rd of my collection converted.
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 28, 2020 22:06:45 GMT -5
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 27, 2020 21:54:33 GMT -5
I just received the REA Transfer Warehouse and one extension kit. Very well engineered and very detailed. I feel a little guilty that I am going to cut it up a bit and convert it to a backdrop building with no more than 1" of depth. The design of this kit should make this a relatively painless conversion.
I wish I had room for more of these as it sure looks good built up as intended.
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 26, 2020 22:04:30 GMT -5
I'm currently working to do the same with the SW1500 design BUT there is not nearly enough room between the truck and the end of the loco to get a MTL coupler box in there, so maybe it has to stick out the ends a bit? Thoughts? Will it fit better if the back of the coupler box is removed?
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 24, 2020 20:54:10 GMT -5
I'm in for both of those!
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 24, 2020 14:42:18 GMT -5
GP38 Frame is longer than GP30. Motor is different too. 38 uses screw and bushing to hold halves together, 30 uses clips. Looks like gears and trucks are same.
I'll let the experts chime in on history. I took some pics of an old 30 frame compared to the current style 38 frame. Keep in mind these may change when the new 38's come out.
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 23, 2020 22:47:32 GMT -5
I have been documenting my progress here. I included a pic of the DPDT switches I am using.
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 23, 2020 11:15:38 GMT -5
Awesome design work. I love the way you documented the process. I will need to include a tour bus on my layout now. Update us here when you get back in production.
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 21, 2020 10:03:08 GMT -5
The Circuitron Snapper is not a power supply. You route your AC output from the accessory terminal through it to the switches. See the wiring diagram.
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 20, 2020 20:31:44 GMT -5
Here's my take on how they ride together
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