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Post by BAZman on Jan 3, 2024 14:26:17 GMT -5
This decoder and added energy storage will help DCC decodered locos run more smoothly. DCC decoders are MicroControllers that make calculations and functions in micro and nano seconds. They run on coding. This is permanantly stored within however, it must be ‘initialized’ each time power is applied. Then it goes to work, usually were it left off (Speed Step, Lights etc.) This is why DCC locos can have poor running characteristics, especially dirty track, wheels, pickups, etc.
As many of you have heard of “KeepAlive” (Trademark of TCS) and other such capacitor/battery products, which are energy storage product and HUGE (size) and $1 components.
Alex has been delving in these concepts for the past years, with a mission to pack that similar power in our tiny Locos. This time, he has found a component with significant improvement over others. It will be a game changer!
🇺🇦🇺🇸🇩🇪
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Post by BAZman on Jan 2, 2024 15:14:36 GMT -5
Nice! A classic set.
Happy Chrimas!
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Post by BAZman on Dec 31, 2023 14:48:36 GMT -5
In s basic comparison:
Digitrax is a 2-Function F0 for Forward Light & F1 for Reverse Light TCS is a 4-Function: same F0 for Forward Light & F1 for Reverse Light plus 2 more Functions F2 & F3, typically for Ditch Lights, Beacon, Number boards, etc.
Digitrax & TCS are “drop-in” for ~90% of AZL. Digitrax only for MTL GP9 & GP35 Digitrax only for Märklin (limited chassis but fairly common chassis)
“Drop-In” is a misnomer. The Decoder manufactures use a slightly thinner board (but used longer time than AZL) so the are ‘too loose’ and would fall out. Rather than AZL to start making the chassis to the world-wide dimensions, the decoder manufactures add solder to help make them fit. But so much though that you hsve to CAREFULLY scrape moset all of the solder off, so you get to finally fit in the chassis notches.
The next is the motor contacts on the decoder board making contact with the motor in the chassis, without touching the metal chassis. This next to impossible to see. You must use a DVM (digital voltmeter) or the old school VOM (Volt Ohm meter) to check for NO continuity (no short).
What was your idea for using with DCC? Normally it is used to run 2-3 trains on separate loops or 1 running loop and a switching loco sneaking on and off the mainline.
DCC runs on a lot more power (similar Voltage but much higher current (if there is derailment or misaligned switch.
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Post by BAZman on Dec 28, 2023 14:48:23 GMT -5
Especially if you take your small layout “Camping”.
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Post by BAZman on Dec 28, 2023 14:45:26 GMT -5
Oooo . . . ideas galore ! Yes, we run 100 cars and passenger sets although no grades. But a long time ago, ths Z-Bend Track became restrictive. And with just 5 get togethers in 20 years, its way past its time. With the concept, (2 parallel tracks around), you could collapse into a single track (like Block/Passing track) and place switches to Industry for your switching pleasure with the Micro-Trains freight [and I don’t care that the car isn’t “right”. It’s switchable !!!].
I’ll post my home design in a few days but it is 2 corner 5x4 (5’+5’) for the middle of the “U”and two 6’ long balloon each so I can at least 15” radii, like our show modules. The 10’ back wall wraps around the side wall, expanding to 3’ along the 6’. This will 4 pieces of 4x4 Baltic Birch. They will framed with kiln-dry clear pine, mounted on 2x4 framing with rectangular felt pads and furniture locking hardware so modules I can take them out to work on all sides, especially in the beginning.
I thought about full extension rails or 1/2 extension with 90 tilt (visions of years gone by Science class) and I know that Loren Snyder had done it that way, but I can’t a total grasp on it.
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Post by BAZman on Dec 28, 2023 13:51:23 GMT -5
My home layout to be built, will be a shelf ‘point-to-point’ for in-your-face switching attached to 10x14 ‘U’ for continuous running. So count me as a +1
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Post by BAZman on Dec 23, 2023 14:01:43 GMT -5
Then there are the ‘how many did you make of these’ to still be 2-for-1’s specials. (Note top of page)
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Post by BAZman on Dec 18, 2023 13:38:40 GMT -5
They also run slower (I have 1st hand info why), trucks are overly wide (same as the F’s), plow needs shave up so it doesn’t snag on switches/märklin expansion tracks/poor grade changes.
Otherwise, the run reliably well.
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Post by BAZman on Dec 13, 2023 12:00:35 GMT -5
Rokuhan RC02 is a PWM controller right? >YES. Does the constant light -functionality requires some chip on the loco to work, right? >No. It is only a diode/capacitor storage principle, proprietary to their cars (but you could make it yourself.) When the power is reduced to zero, in the background, there are ‘transients’ long/high enough to recharge the capacitors well stopped, yet not enough to move locomotives How does the Snail speed controller compare to the Rokuhan? Is there any notable differences? >Snail is near 1/2 the size. Also since I live in Europe, we get AC at 230 Volts and 50 Hz, is there a version of the Snail power adapter that works in European grid? I guess Rokuhan has a version. Somewhere I read that Snail speed controller has - in the middle so I can't hook just any adapter to it. I guess 9 Volts is correct, but how many amps thou? >Both use world-wide universal voltage, with more than enough current, but marginal/for a MTL F7 (OK for their GP’s). HOWEVER, the Snail is Minus (-) tip whereas virtually every wall-wart is Positive tip (+). Use the offered one or ANY minus tip 9~12V, 1A or less. Also, do I need to go fully PWM or can I mix PWM and "traditional DC" in a scenario where a loco travels over an insulation point (both rails insulated) from a PWM track to direct DC track, will bad things happen? > ALL PWM or ALL DC! Never allow DC into PWM (exactly the same as DCC). If you are using Diodes to ‘stop’ the train, that should be OK. Thanks in advance! BR, Eino
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Post by BAZman on Dec 6, 2023 13:11:41 GMT -5
NOTE: ! “Mind the Drive Shaft” !
The irreplaceable drive shaft ‘coupling’ the tender can easily snapped, either in the length ot the universal joint. When in the plastic carrier, study it. You need to pull them apart, straight away. When you pick both loco & tender: 2 hands and focus as you move. Same when putting the shaft back in.
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Post by BAZman on Dec 3, 2023 14:34:29 GMT -5
Hey! Look closely at that cloest shelf! Half of it is ‘fluff’ passenger cars! 🧐
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Post by BAZman on Dec 2, 2023 12:22:18 GMT -5
Whoa . .. Caltrain ? San Francisco Bay Area I’ll get at least 5 for BAZ & 5 for the LHS (not a Z shop but half-staff are Caltrain) and the local layouts. Attachments:
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Post by BAZman on Dec 1, 2023 17:11:39 GMT -5
I have 3 sets so I could snag 1 from one car but then I have 1 incomplete set, just for a truck. Developers often have savings, somewhere. I steal a car or too for the more noticeable consist of today and a spare loco for the show. The 3rd set goes on the wall with another snatched car from the 3rd set: WOW !!! Pix got CRUMBLED but when you open it, you get the idea. No time to fix it, I have a show to get ready for !! Attachments:
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Post by BAZman on Nov 29, 2023 12:42:29 GMT -5
After 25+ years of running the Capital Corridor (in push mode) at train shows, I ‘ ‘ finally’ ‘ toasted a truck !
This set runs between San Jose - Sacramento and does not have the same frame/chassis/wheels as the Bombardier sets. I need the truck (with wheels). The bottom frame is fine.
I have a spare set (in home display) but would like to preserve the entire content.
Rob, Rob, Hans?
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Post by BAZman on Nov 29, 2023 12:18:56 GMT -5
VERY nice. The foreground friends draw a closer loco while the training around the big and different large structures.
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