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Post by BAZman on Dec 25, 2015 2:01:16 GMT -5
We've just rattle can painted the rails and roadbed all at once. In the past, Testor's Roof brown (darker than Rail brown). Use Rail brown for lessor used rail (lighter, like rusting). But, no longer available. So any modeller's size cans as the big just put out too much paint. We have sprayed hundreds of feet of rail without prep'ing but Acrylics may need a little more oil residue cleaing. Most any Electronics supply will have Contact Cleaner (NON-lubricating type) or some flux removers but Hexane is better. All should say Plastic Safe.
We use an Alcohol soaked rag, wrapped around a small block to quickly wipe the rail tops after sparying. You have about 60 seconds to wipe our it will become really hard to remove without scrubbing (don't ever use sand paper).
The ties don't change color that much and, if you want, you can just use a generic small bush to brush on some blacker color wash.
If you are trying to keep the Rokuhan ballast and only paint the rails, its a pain. The 4/0 and other size brushed can be easily found at Michaels, Aaron Brothers and Art supply stores.
Since we all run out trains from 3-4 feet away (or more) painting the rails only really isn't that obvious. We've won 1st, 2nd and 3rd place NMRA awards with bulk paint-it-all, then simply ballast (where the white glue leaves just enough haze that the ties will remain distinctively different than the rails.
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Post by BAZman on Dec 8, 2015 20:53:50 GMT -5
The scene starting at 2:00 minutes looks SOooo real, just like proto rocking !!! GREAT photo set up!
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Post by BAZman on Dec 7, 2015 13:43:06 GMT -5
Nothing like bashing several märklin Santa Fe sets
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Post by BAZman on Dec 7, 2015 13:20:22 GMT -5
Mark, best was SFO, Air Canada/United for $340 via Vancouver. 2.5 hrs
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Post by BAZman on Dec 2, 2015 0:13:44 GMT -5
After you remove all you can of the solder.
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Post by BAZman on Dec 2, 2015 0:12:19 GMT -5
it is only the GP38 that has the soft casting. ALL others are quality.
There are many on the forums that bought up the 5 & 10 packs of 'paint your own' GP38's so I hope that many will part with the chassis they no longer want after de-shelling them for bash ups.
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Post by BAZman on Dec 2, 2015 0:07:09 GMT -5
Seriously, I need to build more spurs, yards and industries. We have built longer modules to spread out, especially for more trains to simultaneously run (and of course, double-triple headers catch the wandering eyes) but, this is a lot of locos !
Awesome.
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Post by BAZman on Nov 24, 2015 13:02:50 GMT -5
The Lodi train shop is for sale (they want to retire) but still open with LOTS of inventory (the still re-order items that were sold). www.rogersrailroadjunction.com/
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Post by BAZman on Nov 24, 2015 12:57:26 GMT -5
Guess not, since no reply or posts from.
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Post by BAZman on Nov 18, 2015 20:27:29 GMT -5
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Post by BAZman on Nov 4, 2015 22:52:15 GMT -5
I'd like to know what the differences are with the various phases of the P42's and the Superliners. Could make up some longer coaches, second sleeper or lounge if enough visible differences.
With some of the other recent diesels, I sense a set of high popularity cars, like a 10 car train.
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Post by BAZman on Oct 26, 2015 11:47:22 GMT -5
Nothing more than the token MTL couple of cars or single märklin cars. LOT's of ZoCal members tho !!!!
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Post by BAZman on Sept 14, 2015 20:07:31 GMT -5
The AZT880 is a string of back-to-back diodes so it is 1 wire in, 1 wire out. You can place it in either string as DCC is 'AC' (alternating current).
Honestly, none of us use these reducers. We use a 12 Volt wall-wart on the Power Cab which gives you very close to 12 volts out. The decoders drop the voltage almost a volt more before going to the motor. Don't worry about the voltage. If you place an oscilloscope on the motor leads, there a very large transient voltages there. The motor will not blow up !
The Power Cab has a current limiter built in but is 2 amps, a bit high. (we run our stuff all day at shows with out issues *but*, it is still enough power that if you get a loco truck to span a short, wheel wipers can fry pretty quick.
A light bulb like the 1156 automotive tail light bulb is a 2 amp bulb so will not really limit. The 'tail' light filament of an 1157 bulb (not the thicker 'brake' filament) is about 1/3 Amp. You can easily solder on to the bulb's base.
A 93 or 94 bulb is 1 amp. Just look for an ~ 10-15 Watt bulb (~ 12 watts) or less.
The automotive Festoon bulbs look like a large glass fuse. You cannot easily solder to the base of these.
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Post by BAZman on Sept 14, 2015 19:47:52 GMT -5
I've been wanting to make an Engine Lift, a much smaller version of this, for some time. Hang a crunched shell above the 3D print diesel from Searails.
Matt: just use common PC board spacers, pennies per here at Halted. I can mail some up if you give me lengths and OD's. Plastic or metal.
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Post by BAZman on Sept 4, 2015 17:46:16 GMT -5
Rob Kluz, please upload the P42, Superliner and others. Jeff didn't post the Day 2-3 pix.
Dom, likely so, just like the prior brass 3 axles.
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