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Post by BAZman on Mar 20, 2024 10:49:11 GMT -5
There are Pre-Orders, just so ya know. Most Dealers keep up with proposed release announcement. Then take your preorder. It doesn’t have to be the biggest sight or a site you have never used.
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Post by BAZman on Mar 19, 2024 13:11:04 GMT -5
About 90% of modules are orthogonal (most are 90, then 45, etc.) About all are 2 parallel tracks, spaced from a fornt edge. Zmod of Norway has same front offset as Z-Bend Track [ZBT for ease of typing] but ‘half’ the ZBT (using only one side, similar to T-track.
About 25 years ago, the Bill Kronenberger formed the ZBT as ‘standard’ for many of us to get together. Fairly successful. The ZoCal group (Southern Cali) has Dozens of ZBT modules. But many did not have room or desire so just maid their own. I have now had my zbt modules for 22 years but have only taken them only to shows, a real waste. So now with permanent housing (the past 5 years) I am deconmising them for house use. Some that are just scenic will be cut in half (lengthwise) whereas Modules with a lot of components and End modules will make up the Corners.
The only Z ‘Free-Mo concept I have seen was Daniel Baechtold of Switzerland, modeling single track Canada.
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Post by BAZman on Mar 18, 2024 12:26:26 GMT -5
You can certainly send a loco to TCS and Digitrax. They need a model (that they keep, in case of issues down the down the road). 1~2 months. The board is fundamentally similar to the PA so computer autorouting is easy. I did this for the PA’s @digitrax 2-function (thank you very much) and Don Fedjur contracted TCS (as he prefers 4 function).
I am not doing Digitrax as my colleague has made an appropriate product for a ‘drop-in) decoder. The TCS or Digitrax would be challenged to be a 3 or 4 function but at least economical.
Also, it’s ~$40 to put the energy-storage components, TCS or any others. So it really an equivalent playing field. Like Autos, phones, etc. you get best first, the the trimmed down desperate low end.
AND EACH AND EVERY BOARD IS HAND MADE. Taking time and hassle many day securing the parts from multiple sources.
So please, purchase these to support him, at least this premium loco. You will be amazed how well the will run.
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Post by BAZman on Mar 18, 2024 11:55:10 GMT -5
3
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Post by BAZman on Mar 14, 2024 11:35:38 GMT -5
Artist’s supply shops sell a variety of graphite pencils, various densities. That might make faster to ‘lube’. Michael’s, Hobby Lobby, Blink, etc.
You also use them grease and diesel dribbles too 😉
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Post by BAZman on Mar 13, 2024 13:25:53 GMT -5
The Light/motor PC board is ‘loose’ or the tab’s underneath are not touching the motor. 1) look at each truck on both sides of the logo to see if the chassis frame horizontal pick ups are sitting on top of the center truck pick up. 2) very gently press 1 finger down at each end and middle (1 position at a time) to see if you can get motor and/or light 3) lift the shell off of the logo. Very carefully touch the PC board to determine if it is loose. This will be normally in the front of the board. make sure it is secure in the notch, even though it may feel tight look very closely to make sure both sides are solidly in the notches 4) look at the motor tabs under the circuitboard to see if they are making contact to the motor. This is very difficult to see you will need a flashlight. Normally an easier way is using a meter (DVM, analog meter on 10x (or 100) ohm. Touch probe to one side of the frame and the the other probe to the other side frame. If it does not indicate (change value a lot), the board is not making contact to one (or both motor tab(s). Lift the back and of the PC board to remove it bend the copper cabs down more than 45° but not 90! Reinsert the circuit board. Try meter again.
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Post by BAZman on Mar 12, 2024 12:13:45 GMT -5
The Peko SL-100 Flex track is *exactly* the same as the märklin, down to sleeper wood grain pattern. The only difference is one rail is loose, so you can easily flex the track. The märklin has to be notched every other sleeper before you flex it.
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Post by BAZman on Mar 2, 2024 14:35:08 GMT -5
Do the SD70Aces have working ditch lights? (using light tubes I presume) What DCC decoder(s) will fit in them? The single light pipe is used for all. You will have to partially disassemble the shell to clip the 2 drops, then embed 0402 LED’s in each. You will need a TCS AZL4, (SKU 1550) (https://www.tcsdcc.com/product-page/azl4) for the added Ditch Lights. You wire the 2 LED’S to the F1 & F2 pads (see above 1 page manual). You do not need a Resistor for TCS decoders (they are built-in) but if you feel they are too bright after installing IN the shell and looking at the front, try a 10K resistor 1/8 Watt. Cathodes[-], (usually Black on prewired LED’s) to F1 or F2 (doesn’t matter, they alternate electronically). The 2 Red leads (Anodes[+] are twisted together and soldered to the Blue pad. Program: CV51 (F1) to 10 CV51 (F2) to 11
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Post by BAZman on Feb 29, 2024 18:43:34 GMT -5
I can see that about 3 of us can put a decal on (that could almost be production printing). I can see , hmm, 13 that did pretty good. Then I see the 122 that might just get only on, ruining the fourth and then the 402 that can't see the number, shake like ....., have thumbs like a squished fig and sleep well at night. And , , , the decals are behind some location with 3 fingers are needed.
Might have somebody print a sheet of the common road numbers (amazing how many you can get on an 5x8 or so.
Or . . . I take up the MTL to use there 5 color printer, along with bonus weathering !
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Post by BAZman on Feb 28, 2024 13:51:12 GMT -5
But worse, the power it draws. A perfect motor ‘might’ draw 100ma, if you dream. Many are 250 ma. A DCC decoder can handle it, but its not recommend. For DC, the Rokuhan won’t but some hand-helds will and the “Table Top” certainly will.
They tend to dance the wobble of an abandoned spur.
They will ‘run over fingers’ having great pulling power.
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Post by BAZman on Feb 22, 2024 11:44:21 GMT -5
If the decoder buzzes, the decoder tab(s) is(are) shorting to the frame. If the no buzzing, 1 or both decoder tabs are not touching the motor.
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Post by BAZman on Feb 21, 2024 12:02:21 GMT -5
Sculptamold cannot be carved. Consider it for light weight foundations though. So you could put Plaster of Paris or Hydro-Cal (after the Scultamold dries, I suppose). Plaster of Paris can. And Hydrocal.
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Post by BAZman on Feb 21, 2024 2:50:48 GMT -5
yeah, me to. RS-11's
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Post by BAZman on Feb 21, 2024 2:30:50 GMT -5
Nail 'Files' from the Cosmetic section (or more choices from a Beauty Supply store. 1000 grit up to 10,000 grit.
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Post by BAZman on Feb 21, 2024 2:22:18 GMT -5
That some BIG magnet you have there. I used 1/8x1/8x1" ceramic. Its side polarized (not End-to-End that you would think). That spec in MTL's patent and there huge flat N scale one. Clever. Very interesting.
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