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Post by arsenix2001 on May 18, 2018 9:08:52 GMT -5
Thanks for the info. I will give it a shot this weekend
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Post by markm on May 18, 2018 9:45:54 GMT -5
Good luck. Let us know how things turn out.
A couple of final thoughts for you. Find an image of the prototype for what you want to work on and use it as a guide. Most cars have a unique personality for how they weather. Consider getting some micro-brushes for getting into tight places and one of those twirly brushes women use for face powder and you see on the CSI programs, they do a great job distributing the weathering powders.
Mark
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Post by arsenix2001 on May 18, 2018 9:58:50 GMT -5
Man, again thanks. Regardless how it turns out I have a feeling it will be 10x better than it would have been before!
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Post by smr on May 18, 2018 16:50:59 GMT -5
Good luck. Let us know how things turn out. A couple of final thoughts for you. Find an image of the prototype for what you want to work on and use it as a guide. Most cars have a unique personality for how they weather. Consider getting some micro-brushes for getting into tight places and one of those twirly brushes women use for face powder and you see on the CSI programs, they do a great job distributing the weathering powders. Mark .... and then it may look like this; & only weathered;
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Post by smr on May 18, 2018 16:53:31 GMT -5
... & Weathered and Graffiti; I hope this helps a little bit, Best, Sven
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Post by neverland on May 19, 2018 6:52:52 GMT -5
By all means PRACTICE before applying the first speck of powder to a car or loco you're either planning to keep or consider reselling. At my local train club I've seen some seriously mucked up weathering-- much too heavy & dark.
The same applies to structures-- light touches emphasize; heavy handed and the building looks condemned (unless if course you're trying for that abandoned look.
The smaller the scale, the more obvious the weathering. Good luck! And share some of your results!
Deb
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Post by arsenix2001 on May 20, 2018 21:25:04 GMT -5
Well, i spent most of the weekend wrapping up loose ends with my track work etc amongst other things. I fooled with one mtl gondola as a test mule. Used some extremely old bragdon weathering powders I had an also experimented with mixing some with alittle water for harsher effects like road splatter near the trucks. Let me know what you think and be gentle, its my first time and only spend about 20 minutes on it! Before and afters. Have not applyex dullcote yet Attachments:
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Post by arsenix2001 on May 20, 2018 21:26:55 GMT -5
Another Attachments:
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Post by arsenix2001 on May 20, 2018 21:32:11 GMT -5
A few pics of the layout. Needs buildings. Attachments:
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Post by arsenix2001 on May 20, 2018 21:34:34 GMT -5
Last ones. I wanted to encompass alot of things. 2 mainlines, a yard, switching, a few industry spurs. It works. Its a fictional area on the border of canada serving as a a small interchange. Attachments:
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Post by neverland on May 20, 2018 22:23:53 GMT -5
Well, i spent most of the weekend wrapping up loose ends with my track work etc amongst other things. I fooled with one mtl gondola as a test mule. Used some extremely old bragdon weathering powders I had an also experimented with mixing some with alittle water for harsher effects like road splatter near the trucks. Let me know what you think and be gentle, its my first time and only spend about 20 minutes on it! Before and afters. Have not applyex dullcote yet Looks good. Bragdon powders are good stuff,
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Post by markm on May 20, 2018 22:32:11 GMT -5
The weathering job looks great. I don't see anything wrong with the work. It's hard to tell since the car color and the weathering are so similar, but it doesn't look like the powders have been put on too heavy. You might want to consider using some oily black paint at the coupler pins and wheel bearing. You might also want to distress the top sill: those always get beat-up.
Nice layout with a lot possibilities.
Mark
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Post by BAZman on May 20, 2018 23:22:14 GMT -5
Great ! Totally acceptable!
I note I forgot: if you use the light chalks (Ash, Dust, light tans, etc.) will nearly disappear when the clear lacquers (e.g. Dull-Cote)
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Post by arsenix2001 on May 20, 2018 23:24:21 GMT -5
Thanks for the kind words and advice. One question. Have you ever dullcoted first to get powders to transfer heavier? And when applying dullcoat, can it be done with the wheels/trucks on? Concerned about mucking up the smooth rolling quality of the metal wheels.
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Post by arsenix2001 on May 20, 2018 23:25:39 GMT -5
Great ! Totally acceptable! I note I forgot: if you use the light chalks (Ash, Dust, light tans, etc.) will nearly disappear when the clear lacquers (e.g. Dull-Cote) Thank you! And you read my mind. Any way to avoid this phenomenon? Worried the look I like will vanish once sprayed.
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