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Post by neverland on May 20, 2018 23:36:53 GMT -5
With Bragdon powders I never spray. Just use the powders & let nature do the rest.
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Post by domi on May 23, 2018 6:16:44 GMT -5
Just catching this topic now... To reply to the initial question : weathering or not weathering ? I will say, yes, yes and yes, definitly. Furthermore as I’m not a collector and every piece of rolling stock I’m owning is due to have its duty out of its box. And finally let’s not forget railroads like Southern Pacific whose policy was not overspending for rolling stock cleaning and painting... Dom
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Post by arsenix2001 on Sept 23, 2018 20:10:57 GMT -5
So believe it or not I have not weathered a single car since this post. Things got busy during the summer but the cooler temps have found me hanging out near the tracks lately. Have a few loose ends to wrap up and more scenery details to do but I tried fooling around with the T2 graffiti waterslide set I got recently and I have to say was pretty pleased with the results. Just some warm water and then dabbed with denatured alcohol. Formed to the ridges well with the help of an exact knife. They are tough decals btw. Going to weather it with powders tomorrow when the decals are totally dry. Would definitely recommend.
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Post by dazed on Sept 23, 2018 21:04:55 GMT -5
Couple of things... 1. You typically add graffiti after most (or at least some) of the weathering is done. Typically a car that is graffiti'ed has at least some level of weathering on it prior to being tagged. 2. Make sure the graffiti reaches the bottom of the car. It almost always covers the lower side sills of the car. (not always, but it is more commonly starting at the absolute bottom of the car)
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Post by arsenix2001 on Sept 23, 2018 22:07:34 GMT -5
Couple of things... 1. You typically add graffiti after most (or at least some) of the weathering is done. Typically a car that is graffiti'ed has at least some level of weathering on it prior to being tagged. 2. Make sure the graffiti reaches the bottom of the car. It almost always covers the lower side sills of the car. (not always, but it is more commonly starting at the absolute bottom of the car) Dazed I placed them as near to the bottom as I could. Regarding the weathering I was worried the bragdon powders would cause issues with adhesion and possibly run the powders when adding water. I was going to weather around the decals with a dullcote to finish. But maybe I should try the other way around
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Post by smr on Sept 24, 2018 0:56:35 GMT -5
Couple of things... 1. You typically add graffiti after most (or at least some) of the weathering is done. Typically a car that is graffiti'ed has at least some level of weathering on it prior to being tagged. 2. Make sure the graffiti reaches the bottom of the car. It almost always covers the lower side sills of the car. (not always, but it is more commonly starting at the absolute bottom of the car) I second that..........
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Post by gerd on Sept 24, 2018 5:51:05 GMT -5
As Doug said graffiti are mostly placed at the bottom edge or running out into the edge, because the 'artist' typically starts from the top and runs out of space to the bottom. eathering is a multi-layer process with dullcoates in between for sealing the weathering, just a hint ;-)
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Post by arsenix2001 on Sept 24, 2018 9:18:40 GMT -5
As Doug said graffiti are mostly placed at the bottom edge or running out into the edge, because the 'artist' typically starts from the top and runs out of space to the bottom. eathering is a multi-layer process with dullcoates in between for sealing the weathering, just a hint ;-) Got it, now just need it to stop raining so I can try out the dullcote outdoors. One additional question, do you guys have any recommendations on where to get numbering and lettering to do patching? I wanted to patch a chessie over to csxt.
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Post by dazed on Sept 24, 2018 9:50:53 GMT -5
As Doug said graffiti are mostly placed at the bottom edge or running out into the edge, because the 'artist' typically starts from the top and runs out of space to the bottom. eathering is a multi-layer process with dullcoates in between for sealing the weathering, just a hint ;-) Got it, now just need it to stop raining so I can try out the dullcote outdoors. Yeah, I sort of forgot you were doing chalks exclusively, but the process can work multiple ways. And of course there are multiple schools of thought about how to go about it as well. I was just offering suggestions and not necessarily trying to tell you how to do it or that you're doing it wrong. If airbrushing, I like to layer more since you can apply thinner layers. If you're doing chalk and dullcote only and using dullcote from a can, then you might take another approach...some folks will apply graffiti decals straight over dullcote and that might be what I would do, although I really like to have a smooth finish for decals so I would probably brush some Future polish over *just* the area to be decal'ed. Then dullcoat again after the decals were applied, set, and dry. Again, just thinking out loud. As mentioned, a lot of it is just experimenting. If it looks good then go with it. BTW, given the "stalactite" nature of the particular graffiti you used for the gon it is more of a challenge to get it along the bottom. So I think you are ok for what it is...but I just wanted to make the comment that generally it should be right on the bottom. BTW, part II...another option regarding the graffiti...you could photocopy the graffiti, print it out, cut out a mask, then overlay to masking tape to cover the decals (make sure they're set and completely dry) for the first coat(s) of weathering. Just an idea.
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Post by arsenix2001 on Sept 24, 2018 10:07:13 GMT -5
Got it, now just need it to stop raining so I can try out the dullcote outdoors. Yeah, I sort of forgot you were doing chalks exclusively, but the process can work multiple ways. And of course there are multiple schools of thought about how to go about it as well. I was just offering suggestions and not necessarily trying to tell you how to do it or that you're doing it wrong. If airbrushing, I like to layer more since you can apply thinner layers. If you're doing chalk and dullcote only and using dullcote from a can, then you might take another approach...some folks will apply graffiti decals straight over dullcote and that might be what I would do, although I really like to have a smooth finish for decals so I would probably brush some Future polish over *just* the area to be decal'ed. Then dullcoat again after the decals were applied, set, and dry. Again, just thinking out loud. As mentioned, a lot of it is just experimenting. If it looks good then go with it. BTW, given the "stalactite" nature of the particular graffiti you used for the gon it is more of a challenge to get it along the bottom. So I think you are ok for what it is...but I just wanted to make the comment that generally it should be right on the bottom. BTW, part II...another option regarding the graffiti...you could photocopy the graffiti, print it out, cut out a mask, then overlay to masking tape to cover the decals (make sure they're set and completely dry) for the first coat(s) of weathering. Just an idea. In hindsight I think I could have gone alittle bit lower. I looked at photos and totally see what you mean regarding the graffiti going all the way to the plate. I'd say a stray car here or there had a small gap like I did so I will leave this car and salvage with the chalks. However I will take your advice and for the future do my weathering first and seal in and come back with decals after. It makes sense. If you guys have any recommendations for numbering/lettering, that would be great.
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Post by dazed on Sept 24, 2018 11:09:53 GMT -5
Which car are you patching? I've seen some ex-Chessie CSXT cars with black patches and white lettering, for example. But it's likely all over the board with how they did it....which is good for you since you can really kinda go with whatever. (yet, having said that...if you're working from a photo might as well try to give it a similar look) Micro-Scale lettering is generally a good start--albeit a bit tedious. But if you're doing a full patchover then you can print the patch and lettering to decal paper...much easier. Some N-scale decals might have usable stuff as well.
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Post by arsenix2001 on Sept 24, 2018 17:42:00 GMT -5
Which car are you patching? I've seen some ex-Chessie CSXT cars with black patches and white lettering, for example. But it's likely all over the board with how they did it....which is good for you since you can really kinda go with whatever. (yet, having said that...if you're working from a photo might as well try to give it a similar look) Micro-Scale lettering is generally a good start--albeit a bit tedious. But if you're doing a full patchover then you can print the patch and lettering to decal paper...much easier. Some N-scale decals might have usable stuff as well. Dazed I like the idea of printing to decal paper but do you think I should use water slide paper? The sticker paper I have is very thick. Looking like I may end up going for something like this loco I've seen . For the cars I like the idea of a black and white patch. Best to use clear I assume?
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Post by arsenix2001 on Sept 25, 2018 8:06:26 GMT -5
here is my test mule, not sure I'm 100% happy with it. Debating scrubbing it down and possibly removing one of the graffiti decals and starting over. I picked up the Tamiya Weather master and I'm curious to give that a try along with the Bragdon powders.
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Post by markm on Sept 25, 2018 9:23:56 GMT -5
I think it turned out quite well. Maybe be a bit more rust on the coupler and truck frames. You could also consider using a shop knife or small file to roughen up the rim of the car. But it's good as is.
For doing the patch you show above, I'd suggest using white decal material. The clear isn't totally opaque so the base colors will leak through. I generally use the clear over white paint.
Mark
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Post by dazed on Sept 25, 2018 9:43:52 GMT -5
That looks great! I definitely wouldn't start over, unless that truly is your test mule and you were planning to keep practicing on it. But that is definitely a layout worthy piece, IMHO. ANd, you can always go back to it later if it really is something you're not happy with after a bit.
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