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Post by domi on Sept 21, 2015 5:20:26 GMT -5
Shell is now close to completion. A few bad spots to recover with a small brush and that should be OK. Afterwards I'll apply a mid gloss/matt varnish with my airbrush, and I'll set handrails in place. Going to try Micronart's fine handrail kit but there are only 5 gripping points instead of 12 on original handrails, so I'm a little be affraid about strengh, as some paint dropped into shell's holes and superglue could have problems to fix. Anyway, will try these first. Dom |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Sept 23, 2015 13:53:16 GMT -5
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Post by domi on Sept 23, 2015 17:08:38 GMT -5
Thank you.
Anyway, it's rather far from where the 1:1 scale models of my locomotive have their runs...
Dom
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Post by domi on Sept 28, 2015 14:30:17 GMT -5
The locomotive is now partially completed. One can say it looks like what would be "out of the box", had AZL released any G&W painted unit.    However, its chassis and shell will again be shortly separated, as I'll swap AZL truck mounted couplers with MTL bodymounted samples, and I'll cut pilots into styrene sheets and glue them at every end. Dom |
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Post by rvn2001 on Sept 28, 2015 17:48:54 GMT -5
Beautiful job, Dom! This shows what can be done with some work. The manufacturers can't make everything in all the liveries we like so we need to be able to do some of it on our own.
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Post by cjhayes2424 on Sept 28, 2015 17:56:49 GMT -5
Nice repaint!
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Post by domi on Sept 29, 2015 16:47:29 GMT -5
Thank you guys.  Dom |
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ZFRANK
Fireman
If you can't get it.....build it yourself....
Posts: 93
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Post by ZFRANK on Sept 30, 2015 14:40:24 GMT -5
Hi Dom, it came out very well. You have improved your skills compairing this one with the GP35! When you start on the next one I would build the closed pilot before starting to paint. Get yourself the drill and tap set from MTL (sorry AZL :-)) Drill/tap a hole in a small piece of brass, cut/file it to size afterwards (makes it easier the get the hole in the middle. Glue the piece of brass to the body and screw the coupling on to the brass interface. You also want trimm off as much as possible from back of the coupler housing. (see my picasa album GP40-2) You might want to add some airhoses and cut-levers from BMLA.
/Frank
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Post by domi on Oct 1, 2015 7:31:14 GMT -5
Thanks for the advise Franck. True, on my next unit I will proceed first with a pilot and coupler box. And I'll paint all the secondary stuff prior to lateral black striping: roofs, nose, side platforms, yellow stripe on lower sides of the shell.
Speaking of black lateral striping: while I did that on my GP35 I simply wasn't aware of any custom decal printing. I relied on MTL's separable elements (hood, cab and platform that may come apart) to perform black stripe painting with a small brush and Tamiya protection tape.
I tried to do the same with my first one single part AZL's GP38 shell. I just gave up, as I was bothered with its platform that just prevented me to properly set the tapes, thus leading to disastrous result. Thus I had to find another way to proceed.
I found a triable option when someone told me about printing decals with a standard jet ink printer. Until then, I thought that was only possible with laser printers.. I completely removed all paint on that shell and proceeded again with orange airbrushing.
And I definitly found that easier, while I was experimenting Microsoft Paint software.
Frank, please could you give me a link for your Picasa GP40-2 album? Myself I came to the conclusion I have to shorten my MTL #905 coupler boxes, but I just don't know how to proceed, and how deep I can go...
Best regards,
Dom
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ZFRANK
Fireman
If you can't get it.....build it yourself....
Posts: 93
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Post by ZFRANK on Nov 15, 2015 14:42:12 GMT -5
Hi Dom, I just saw your question regarding the MTL couplers.... You can go as far as the guts of the coupler.  Link to my picasa album: link to my GP40-2 kitbash |
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Post by domi on Nov 17, 2015 12:19:19 GMT -5
Very interresting, thank you Frank. Is there an easy mean to remove coupler's closing plate in order to check outside clearance of spring holding, thus allowing to have a closer to maximum tight cut?
Dom
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ZFRANK
Fireman
If you can't get it.....build it yourself....
Posts: 93
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Post by ZFRANK on Nov 19, 2015 15:56:31 GMT -5
Hi Dom,
Most times I have used the unassebled couplers... l'll guess the couplers are sort of plactic welded . I always use a soldering iron as a heat source to weld the coupler box halves together. You should be able to open them with a sharp hobby knive.
/Frank
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Post by domi on Nov 22, 2015 17:58:49 GMT -5
Thank you Frank. But I'm just affraid of having spring flying away when opening the coupler box...
Dom
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Post by shamoo737 on Nov 22, 2015 19:54:56 GMT -5
Dom, I just cut the back before it reaches any of the guts. Its not as tight, but close enough, and the coupler stays together.
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Post by domi on Nov 25, 2015 5:14:24 GMT -5
Dom, I just cut the back before it reaches any of the guts. Its not as tight, but close enough, and the coupler stays together. Ok Shamoo, thank you, sounds fine. Dom |
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