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Post by husafreak on Dec 29, 2022 13:35:29 GMT -5
I spoke to Streamlined Backshop. He said he would be having more ring terminals made, eventually... For this I'll just make my own or wrap the wire around the screw head. I got the 00-90 tap and drill set and round head machine screws from Nitro Hobbies. tjdreams do you use a pin vise or motorized drill for these tiny bits? I'm guessing a pin vise and great care are needed but not sure.
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Post by BAZman on Dec 29, 2022 13:46:58 GMT -5
Use a motor drill. There is no way you can manually twist drill that deep (20% more than the Taper Tap), let alone straight. Plus it’s not Aluminum, much denser.
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Post by BAZman on Dec 29, 2022 15:33:03 GMT -5
If you note in the 4th picture, the Red & Black Track Power leads are over the outside of the gray box (via a clipper notch). Strip the insulation off and tin the leads with solder. When the frame is reassembled, it makes contact. Been >15 years in mine with no hassles.
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Post by husafreak on Dec 29, 2022 18:03:12 GMT -5
That's a great solution! Simple is good. Thanks
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Post by tjdreams on Dec 29, 2022 20:06:34 GMT -5
I spoke to Streamlined Backshop. He said he would be having more ring terminals made, eventually... For this I'll just make my own or wrap the wire around the screw head. I got the 00-90 tap and drill set and round head machine screws from Nitro Hobbies. tjdreams do you use a pin vise or motorized drill for these tiny bits? I'm guessing a pin vise and great care are needed but not sure. I tried to use a pin vice at first. but it took forever and the hole wound up too big. A power tool will work better - - - - - BUT - - - - The biggest problem you will have is Runout in the chuck of your tools. I've found that most even good quality brand name Drills, Drill Press, and Rotary tools all have too much runout for these tiny drill bits. Spin it too fast and centrifugal force will have the tip wobbling all over the place. Until just recently i was using a Proxxon Collet stile chuck mounted in a cordless screwdriver that I got from micro-mart. it was slow going but it had the least amount of runout and it was easy to swap in a #000 center drill to start the hole. Now days I use a sensitive drilling attachment mounted in my Sherline Mill. I also picked a 3 piece HSS tap set w/ Tapered, Bottoming, & Plug taps. It was expensive but for as many times as i've used it it was worth it for me. Here is a link to a video by Adam Savage from MythBusters which will show you the reason for using the different taps and a taping guide. About 23 minutes in will explain why Jeff recommended + 20% Its a long video but it has some good info that may help you along the way. So take some time and watch the whole thing.
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Post by husafreak on Dec 31, 2022 1:37:27 GMT -5
Thank You! I have actually tapped a lot of holes over the years, I am familiar with bottom taps but never had to use them. Just cutting off the end of a second tap to finish the threads is a smart idea. I have made taps by cutting slots in screws but of course these will be too small. I'll just make the hole deeper than it needs to be. I guess a big reason I want to try this is because it is so tiny! I'll give it a go just to see if I can. I wish I had a mill for sure. But if it doesn't work out I will use Jeff's technique.
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Post by BAZman on Dec 31, 2022 13:28:51 GMT -5
Punch a starting hole! That greatly helps the drill to start. Keep the exposed spiral of the drill bit as short as possible to minimize ‘fly out’. Some tools can except the entire bit. Most, like Dremel and “nail files” (used in cosmetic nails and cheap but collets in some are not exactly compatible) don’t accept the entire bit. I haven’t found a slower RPM one, without electronic modification.
Dremel made a Drill Press but pricey.
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Post by husafreak on Dec 31, 2022 14:03:29 GMT -5
I have a Dremel Drill Press. It is ancient. And slow speed on a Dremel is not very slow. But I'll try it.
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Post by bogtudor on Jan 11, 2023 5:34:18 GMT -5
Removal of frame so Motor contacts don't touch the frame. Maybe using some kapton tape and bending the motor tabs helps insulating them from the chassis without milling it? Best regards,
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Post by husafreak on Jan 15, 2023 23:14:00 GMT -5
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Post by louiez on Mar 10, 2024 0:45:21 GMT -5
I am installing PD05A-3 decoders in my F59PHI locos and need help wiring the lights. Which wires go where for the lights. Other wired decoders I've installed have a blue common wire but this decoder doesn't. The white and yellow wires are for forward and revers lights (I believe). I have the motor and track wires installed but don't know what to do with the white and yellow light wires.
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