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Post by troubleshooting on Dec 11, 2022 12:51:25 GMT -5
What is the easiest decoder to install and use for the AZL F59PHI locos. Not sure if it matters but I have a digitrax zephyr that I use for control. Thanks in advance for the help.
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Post by tjdreams on Dec 11, 2022 13:28:35 GMT -5
I don't know if its the easiest or not but I put a DZ126T in one of mine. It was the only small decoder I had on hand at the time and it fit so I used it.
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Post by BAZman on Dec 11, 2022 13:54:39 GMT -5
I used an NCE N14 (fit ease in that huge tray) because it had what I call ‘proper wire locations’ (black, gray, orange,red) so no wires crossing for flat, low profile on the frame.
They have been discontinued.
Doesn’t matter what decoder use. They all over rated for Z
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Post by marmot on Dec 12, 2022 0:31:41 GMT -5
I used an NCE N14 (fit ease in that huge tray) because it had what I call ‘proper wire locations’ (black, gray, orange,red) so no wires crossing for flat, low profile on the frame. They have been discontinued. Doesn’t matter what decoder use. They all over rated for Z Did you mean NCE Z14 instead of N14? The dimensions of the N14 are about twice as large as the tray in the F59PHI. Dimensions of the NCE Z14SRP looks like it would fit. |
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Post by troubleshooting on Dec 13, 2022 4:33:00 GMT -5
Thanks for the responses guys
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Post by scanrail on Dec 14, 2022 7:52:00 GMT -5
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Post by husafreak on Dec 14, 2022 23:28:25 GMT -5
Maybe not popular or also possibly not available in the USA? I am not sure. My only D&H decoders in use are from Zmodell and I love the way they run.
I do have a few ESU LokPilot 59820 and a F59PHI that needs a decoder so I may try that. My F59PHI has terrible traction though, just pulling its 4 car set it slows almost to a stop on my 245mm curves, wheels spinning like mad. None of my other AZL locos have any trouble like that. The cars wheels appear to spin freely, I can't figure out why it can't pull, so I have not pursued it.
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Post by scanrail on Dec 15, 2022 8:15:51 GMT -5
I don't know if D&H decoders are available in the USA - I just don't have such information. But D&H decoders have a number of advantages which can't be found in products from other manufacturers - multi-protocol support, very broad set of features (functions remapping, conditions, brake sections and many others), and also advanced motor control which can be fine-tuned very precisely. Additionally, firmware can also be updated by user.
Alex
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Post by tjdreams on Dec 15, 2022 13:07:31 GMT -5
D&H decoders are available online through several dealers who will ship to the US. I usually order through tramfabriek.nl/doehler-haass.html But have found and ordered them at other online retailers as well. Their PD05A nano series is one of the smallest decoders on the market. It must be verry popular as it sells out very quickly and may take several months before it returns to stock. So if you see it in stock and want one, you better buy it right away or risk waiting a few months till the next batch hits the market. They are reliable decoders at a reasonable price. I've installed a dozen or so in Z scale locomotives and have no complaints. In fact I plan to buy a few more PD05A's the next time I see them in stock. |
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Post by husafreak on Dec 15, 2022 20:33:52 GMT -5
Thanks for sharing!
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Post by troubleshooting on Dec 18, 2022 14:11:26 GMT -5
I picked up a dz126t decoder but I have never used a wired decoder before and am a little confused as to where to solder the blue and white wires to correctly run the front LED. If anyone who has this installed could snap a picture of their wiring it would be greatly appreciated!
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Post by BAZman on Dec 18, 2022 14:55:09 GMT -5
I’ll see if I can make a cloud link to everything. About 1pm (CA) time
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Post by tjdreams on Dec 18, 2022 15:19:19 GMT -5
The Orange and Gray wires were run down through the top and soldered directly to the motor contacts then sealed with a dab of liquid tape so they can't short against the frame halves. I drilled and tapped a 00-90 hole in each side frame then soldered the Red and Black wires to ring terminals and screwed them to the chassis. I left the Yellow wire a little longer than needed incase I decide to add a rear light in the future. I also sealed the end of the yellow wire with a dab of liquid tape to keep it from shorting against anything.  I removed the contacts on the existing light board so they couldn't contact the frame halves then soldered the Blue and White wires to it.  |
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Post by troubleshooting on Dec 18, 2022 15:44:36 GMT -5
Interesting solution using the ring terminals! Thanks for posting the pictures. I am still having trouble telling where the blue wire is soldered to. Is the resister on the underside of the board somehow electrically connected between the blue and white wires? Sorry if some these are obvious questions I'm electrically ignorant.
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Post by tjdreams on Dec 18, 2022 16:53:14 GMT -5
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