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Post by troubleshooting on Dec 18, 2022 17:23:05 GMT -5
Studying those Robert Ray pictures from trainboard is actually what confused me in the first place haha! In his two consecutive posts it looks like he has different wiring in each picture. For example in his first picture the red wire goes to the left contact and in the bottom-most picture the red wire goes to the right contact. And his white wires look like they connect to different contact in the two different configurations as well.
That's why I got confused - with your picture included I can find 3 photos of wiring for this locomotive and decoder and they all seem to be different! I figured there is only one right way but that may not be the case.
I am going to fiddle around when I get home and if I have to remove and resolder contact it isn't the end of the world. Again I appreciate the help.
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Post by BAZman on Dec 18, 2022 17:39:58 GMT -5
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Post by BAZman on Dec 18, 2022 17:41:25 GMT -5
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Post by troubleshooting on Dec 18, 2022 17:57:01 GMT -5
Jeff - thank you! Extremely helpful. And I'm impressed at how many of you meticulously document your builds - even from years ago.
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Post by BAZman on Dec 18, 2022 21:32:47 GMT -5
I just edited the above. You must mill the frame where the motor contacts are, so they don't short.
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Post by BAZman on Dec 18, 2022 22:51:45 GMT -5
Ultimately, I added front (and tail car) Ditch and Reverse lights. Also added a green cab interior. Chassis and Shell Light PC board Light PC board Top view wiring A sloppy job at friends house. It was more of a "can I do it" thing. I had more F59's, so I could make it better but . . . it's been running for 16 years. So, when running Forward, Ditch Lights (F2) and no Reverse run lights and, rear Cab Car has Red Lights. Running in Reverse (Push mode) then Red lights on Loco and Ditch Lighted on Cab Car.
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Post by troubleshooting on Dec 19, 2022 6:22:02 GMT -5
Does the F0 function (front headlight) automatically turn on when the loco is moving forward or does it need to be turned on by pressing something? I set up my decoder last night and it ran beautifully but of course the front headlight did not come on after wiring it exactly like Jeff did. I reconfigured the pad where the white wire is soldered to also contact the left side of the frame and that seemed to do the trick. The light is now always on in both forward and reverse.
And instead of milling out a space for the motor contacts I insulated it with Kapton tape. Otherwise I did everything else the same.
Does anyone know what the electrical component is on the bottom of the board with the LED on it. There are two components, one is a resistor - The other I'm not sure what it is. It looks like Robert Ray removed it in his build.
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Post by BAZman on Dec 19, 2022 12:46:33 GMT -5
I’m not sure of the Z14 FØ programming. I might have had that issue too, but a LONG time ago. I might of used Rule17, fairly sure. For Digitrax, there are lots of options. But I learned with NCE system, the FØ lights don’t auto on when put on the track unless, you go to “Set Cfg?” after Addressing.
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Post by husafreak on Dec 20, 2022 12:03:24 GMT -5
D&H decoders are available online through several dealers who will ship to the US. I usually order through tramfabriek.nl/doehler-haass.html But have found and ordered them at other online retailers as well. Their PD05A nano series is one of the smallest decoders on the market. It must be verry popular as it sells out very quickly and may take several months before it returns to stock. So if you see it in stock and want one, you better buy it right away or risk waiting a few months till the next batch hits the market. They are reliable decoders at a reasonable price. I've installed a dozen or so in Z scale locomotives and have no complaints. In fact I plan to buy a few more PD05A's the next time I see them in stock I have purchased the PD-05A's and a few other things from DM Toys. I currently have a few and could use one for my F59PHI. www.dm-toys.de/en/product-details/DH_PD05A-3.html Much more expensive but still reasonable. Since you have used them maybe you can answer a couple of questions? These are things that have held me back from trying them. 1. The PD-05A do not support analog operation. How the heck do you clean the wheels without that? 2. What CV29 do you use? It looks like CV29=42 gives 28/126 speed steps, check back allowed, and long loco address by CV17/18.
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Post by husafreak on Dec 20, 2022 12:11:40 GMT -5
Here's a variation on the OP's question. Digging down to the very bottom of my parts drawer turns up more decoders than I thought I had! So, assuming they all fit, which would you use for your F59PHI? 1. Digitrax DZ126T 2. D&H PD-05A-3 3. ESU LokPilot 59820
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Post by husafreak on Dec 20, 2022 12:23:44 GMT -5
The Orange and Gray wires were run down through the top and soldered directly to the motor contacts then sealed with a dab of liquid tape so they can't short against the frame halves. I drilled and tapped a 00-90 hole in each side frame then soldered the Red and Black wires to ring terminals and screwed them to the chassis. I left the Yellow wire a little longer than needed incase I decide to add a rear light in the future. I also sealed the end of the yellow wire with a dab of liquid tape to keep it from shorting against anything. View AttachmentI removed the contacts on the existing light board so they couldn't contact the frame halves then soldered the Blue and White wires to it. View AttachmentI would like to add a 00-90 drill and tap set to my toolbox. I see 00-80 as well but I'm not sure which would be better. I see different sources like yankee dabbler or eBay. Dabbler doesn't have screws, eBay has long ones, don't know what size ring terminals... Do you have a recommendation where to get these things that can work together in Z scale?
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Post by tjdreams on Dec 20, 2022 19:58:31 GMT -5
I would like to add a 00-90 drill and tap set to my toolbox. I see 00-80 as well but I'm not sure which would be better. I see different sources like yankee dabbler or eBay. Dabbler doesn't have screws, eBay has long ones, don't know what size ring terminals... Do you have a recommendation where to get these things that can work together in Z scale? I prefer the 00-90 screws and ring terminals they are smaller than the 00-80 which makes them easier to fit under the shell on some loco's. I'm not sure where the best place to get them from is anymore. I use to get them (with screws) from SBS4DCC.com. But they have been marked as Sold Out for well over a year now. Guess I should have bought more of them before he sold out.
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Post by BAZman on Dec 20, 2022 20:40:37 GMT -5
Use the Digitrax, simple, plenty of room. The 00-90 is what MTL uses. I’m not sure how I got the power but I didn’t drill holes. I think the pickups were up there. I’ll see if I have that pix or I’ll pop-off a shell and I might jog my brain
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Post by tjdreams on Dec 20, 2022 20:47:30 GMT -5
For cleaning the wheels I use a Tsugawa Yokou #12508 Wheel Cleaner that I got off eBay like 10 years ago. just hook it to the dcc track and throttle it up same as I do with my DC locos. Or if its really dirty i'll pull the shell, set it wheels up in a foam cradle use alligator clip jumpers from the track to the frame halves to spin the wheels and use a tooth pick and /or piece of lint free cloth with a few drops of IPO to clean the wheels as they spin. For programming I simply use the Quick start guide that came with my NCE Power Cab Just follow the on screen prompts to set it up by pushing the appropriate buttons IE: press 1 for long address / press 2 for short address press enter and it takes you to the next step type in the address you want press enter and your at the next prompt. press one for this or 2 for that and so on. Much easier than trying to remember what CV does what.
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Post by husafreak on Dec 21, 2022 11:25:33 GMT -5
Thanks for your answers guys! If I can find a single source for the tap set, short screws, and ring terminals I'll post it here, 00-90 it is. I'll use the Digitrax. I do like them, very trouble free. I use that same Tsugawa cleaner and some fine tip cleaners for the initial deep cleaning. I didn't know that you can simply use the NCE Powercab direct to the Tsugawa or the loco frame but now I will. I got myself a spare NCE panel a while back. I'll mount it in a small box for ease of use when testing or cleaning loco's at my workbench. It is good to know that the PD-05A's are ready to run with a NCE Powercab right out of the bag with default settings.I'll make a not of that.
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