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Post by Rob Albritton on Oct 10, 2021 15:57:35 GMT -5
Is there room for a decoder? YES ?  NO ?  Maybe ?  More to come later today?  That's Dave's way of saying: "I already did it!" BUT BUT BUT .... We are still working on a simple way to get the shell off. This thing is a real doozy. |
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Post by tjdreams on Oct 10, 2021 17:11:19 GMT -5
Is there room for a decoder? YES ? NO ? Maybe ? More to come later today? That's Dave's way of saying: "I already did it!" BUT BUT BUT .... We are still working on a simple way to get the shell off. This thing is a real doozy. OK so Yes there is enough room for a decoder. I have successfully installed a decoder in my SW1500 and its running Just fine But having room to install a decoder is useless unless we can find a way to remove the shells without damaging anything in the process. Rob I will be sending you some pictures and maybe a video of one possible solution later tonight |
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Post by davejones on Oct 10, 2021 22:03:10 GMT -5
OK so Yes there is enough room for a decoder. I have successfully installed a decoder in my SW1500 and its running Just fine But having room to install a decoder is useless unless we can find a way to remove the shells without damaging anything in the process. Rob I will be sending you some pictures and maybe a video of one possible solution later tonight That's really welcome news. Now I just have to wait for PC to be released. At one new road every two weeks, that could be anywhere from 2 weeks to 10 months |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 11, 2021 5:26:53 GMT -5
Will it come in NYC version, too ? I saw that it existed. And I read that it was sometimes used as a "road switcher" ; so, could it pull my freignt train (5 cars + caboose) ? And, hood forward or not ?
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Post by markm on Oct 11, 2021 7:43:18 GMT -5
It appears that the NYC didn't own any SW1200 or SW1500. However, NH owned 20 SW1200. There are images of the 1200s pulling short freight in the 1960s. An interesting modeling note is that NH had two-rail and three-rail versions of the locomotive, suggesting also they could also have been pulling commuter trains. Looks like they ran cab to the rear. www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=5414025Mark |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 11, 2021 10:09:31 GMT -5
Thanks Mark, but I saw this. Was it fantasy ?
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Post by markm on Oct 11, 2021 12:17:42 GMT -5
Alberich,
Since the MTH page gives a road number 9654, I was able to trace it at the dieselshop.us. The prototype was an ALCO S2 switcher not the SW1500. Good news checking that reference, I find the NYC did own 21 SW1500. Bad news they were all lettered for and run on the Indiana Harbor Belt line subsidiary.
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Post by Rob Albritton on Oct 11, 2021 14:20:08 GMT -5
Thanks Mark, but I saw this. Was it fantasy ? LOTS of fantasy at MTH |
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Post by domi on Oct 17, 2021 10:07:03 GMT -5
First: you need to trim off the back wall of the coupler box (draft gear box) I just measured that as 0.5mm in depth. Try holding the coupler box together while you cut off the back as shown in the pictures. That should keep everything in one piece and will help prevent bits from flying apart. Second: DO NOT USE A DREMMEL. The friction of the sanding disc will create enough heat to melt the coupler. You will wind up with a mess of goo. USE A SHARP HOBBY KNIFE. Third: We can send you some extra adaptors, but they are designed for the SW1500 and will not fit our other locomotives. OK Rob thanks for your input. And as these adaptors won't fit any AZL loco other than SW1500s, I'm not going any further with the idea of purchasing a bunch of these.  Dom |
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Post by theprez on Nov 1, 2021 6:49:19 GMT -5
Hello, is it confirmed that neither SOO or CNW is in the production list?
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Post by Hans Riddervold (AZL) on Nov 1, 2021 10:39:02 GMT -5
Yes, SOO and C&NW not part of first run. Both owned a couple of units, but through subsidiary railroads. If demand is there we will add the two railroads to our next SW run
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Post by scanrail on Nov 29, 2021 17:36:21 GMT -5
I just wondered if some exotic versions will be announced, for example, NASA? Or no one needs a "space" loco?  |
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Post by rray on Nov 29, 2021 18:04:06 GMT -5
Shell removal... What if one were to drill and tap a couple 00-90 holes onto the frame at both the front and rear, then drive long screws in to use as handles to pull the shell off. File the shell nubs down once the shell is off for easier replacement and removal later? Possible?
I can't answer this myself because I am skipping this loco release, only buying models the Northern Pacific had going forward.
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Post by tjdreams on Nov 30, 2021 0:08:27 GMT -5
Shell removal... What if one were to drill and tap a couple 00-90 holes onto the frame at both the front and rear, then drive long screws in to use as handles to pull the shell off. File the shell nubs down once the shell is off for easier replacement and removal later? Possible? I can't answer this myself because I am skipping this loco release, only buying models the Northern Pacific had going forward. Good idea but No that would not work. The front end of the chassis halves are too small to Drill and Tap, there just isn't enough Girth to support even a #61 hole with out adversely weakening the chassis. Getting the shell off with out damaging it is more about spreading the prying force out evenly across the length of the shell rather than in one small spot and pulling it straight off evenly. |
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Post by BAZman on Dec 3, 2021 22:21:51 GMT -5
. . . which is easier if you take the trucks off for access.
I just don’t like AZL stating ‘pull them off’ as they depend on a lip at the top of the truck to stay captured within two chassis halves. That plastic will have some deformation when I get pulled out and could likely interfere with smooth turning or even side to side instability. Also it’s really better to turn the truck to one side of the other because it has the minimal amount of plastic (in my opinion) and you need to pull them off closer to the end axle because the bolster is offset towards the end axle.
You really only probably need to take the back truck out as that is the end that needs the most access for separating the plastic from the frame. Couple of X-Xacto knife (the flat and one not the tapered played one). That should give just enough gap to be able to get the chassis out. Plus you get a little extra group surface if you want to try to hook in the truck mounting holes.
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