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Post by ztrack on Jan 6, 2020 7:52:26 GMT -5
We received this tip from one of our customers and thought we would pass it on. It can also be applied to other AZL's locos like the SD70ACE series and GP30s. - Rob
When recently taking apart an AZL KCS Z GP38-2 to clean, I noticed that you the wipers can fall out easily when the locomotive is disassmbled, They are not easy to get back in place or hold in place when putting the locomotive back together.
So, here’s a tip for your Z-scale do-it-yourselfers. Insert the alloy wipers from one end of each half of half of the molded frame into the grooves until in place. Then, take white glue, like Elmer’s, and spread a thin film into the grooves. Repeat for the other half. Let dry overnight then reassemble. Works like a charm. Be careful not to gunk up the grooves or wipers with too much glue, or I fear you may have trouble with electrical contact.
– Chuck Fulkerson
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Post by will4570 on Jun 12, 2020 16:17:27 GMT -5
Do you have a sketch or photo for this fix. Mine fell out when I pulled shell to oil... brand new gp38.
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Post by modelwarships on Jun 14, 2020 22:33:41 GMT -5
I have had some success in dimpling the strip where it fits into the slot. Helps hold it in place so you can reassemble. One of my SD70ACE's had the strips fall out when I pulled the shell to convert to DCC. Just place the strip on a piece of wood and drive a tiny nail into the middle part of the strip. If you overdo it, just flatten it out with needle nose pliers and try again.
The ultimate fix is to replace the strip with a wire soldered to the truck tabs and connected directly to the frame. . It eliminate the sometimes poor electrical contact that occurs with this type of elec pickup. I have a really old GP38 running around the layout that never seems to stall anywhere due to poor contact. I am seriously considering retro fitting my entire fleet in this manner.
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Post by ztrack on Jun 15, 2020 9:08:26 GMT -5
Do you have a sketch or photo for this fix. Mine fell out when I pulled shell to oil... brand new gp38. I don't have an exact photo of the fix. In this video, you can see the copper contacts on the new GP38. Once you have the contact in place, just add a little white glue. I have to admit, the contacts are tricky putting when trying to get them back into the chassis. Rob |
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Post by DAZed on Jun 15, 2020 11:43:50 GMT -5
I dealt with this last night. Got my new "exchange" mechs and wanted to get decoders in them post haste. Bad news is, once one starts popping out, it will keep doing it. Good news is, if you're impatient like me and don't want to wait overnight for the glue to dry (great tip, btw) to finish your decoder install, you get pretty good at reinstalling it.   As a temporary solution, I put a tiny piece of kapton tape over it once I had it back in the slot to hold it while I finished putting the trucks back on and tightening things up. Then pulled it off right before I put the shell on. The Great news is it seems to me that the decoders fit much better in the new chassis. I'm not sure if this is one of the touted improvements or just dumb luck, but the decoder went in nice and snug and seems to be working fine so far. (then I moved on to my GP30...not so much on the fit of the decoder.) |
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Post by BAZman on Jun 18, 2020 15:40:50 GMT -5
You ARE talking about the 'side attached to the cast slots in the frame', aren't you? Is so, I've found those and the SD45' main pickup issues. Many of the had a drop of clear glue (all-in on CA bet) *where* the contacts tension spot (not between them). This will quickly creep (capillary principle) then then when dried, pulled the contact points away from the metal frame. I put the CA drop *between* the contact points. Matt in our BAZ BoyZ group had the super worst running GP38, futzing with it every way at every show (Failure Engineer) but he missed that. I found on the SD45's and looked at the GP38, cleaned the surfaces and put back on the track. Perfect. I have now also been putting some 'conductive' lubricants on all of these points, just as maybe a x% helper. Here are some examples: tinyurl.com/y7d4m396tinyurl.com/ycuetmh4These 'Lubes, Pastes" have very poor conduction but help keep the contacts clean. Especially the Pen, which dries minutes after and can be easy wiped off (maybe leaving some traces). Chassis and chassis pickup strip where clean well. And, of course the famous "Conducta-Lube" This product has NO conductivity, it just surrounds all the metal surfaces so the are harder to oxidize. |
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Post by ztrack on Jun 18, 2020 18:25:15 GMT -5
I'm a big fan of Conducta-Lube! Z legend Bill K turned me on to it many years ago.
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Post by zscalehobo on Jun 19, 2020 10:11:41 GMT -5
And, of course the famous "Conducta-Lube" This product has NO conductivity, it just surrounds all the metal surfaces so the are harder to oxidize. Jeff: I've seen you write this so many times now that I never call it by the "c" word. It's "Atlas 192" to me.  |
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Post by mrbarlow on Apr 24, 2021 9:06:06 GMT -5
I have a GP 38-2 I purchased about 4 years ago. This loco has always run slower than my other GP 38's.
Anyway , I had it out about 1 month ago on my test loop of track trying to get it warmed up which usually leads to better speeds.
Nothing was progressing so I popped out the PCB and one of the little bronze tabs broke off, loco was inoperable.
I ordered and received a NEW PCB from Rob K. I placed in chassis and loco ran but I noticed the horizontal electrical pick up wipers
started falling out of the frame. I gently pushed back in but to no avail. I placed a tiny drop of CA on to hold, and now my loco is
dead in the water. I was able to remove the wipers but their all mangled.
Any step by step fix on getting this engine operable ?
I run straight DC only.
Thank You,
Mr. Barlow
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Post by markm on Apr 24, 2021 11:46:14 GMT -5
Mr. Barlow,
I'd suggest contacting Rob K. with the specifics of this locomotive. The manufacturer of one of the early runs used contaminated metal for the frame. The results are a frame that over time can deform and crack. Your descriptions suggest you may have one of these units. AZL offers a replacement program for these frames and Rob can advise you properly.
Mark
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Post by mrbarlow on May 1, 2021 8:07:39 GMT -5
Mark,
Can you refer me to anyone that's "reputable" for Z scale repairs ?
Thanks,
MR.B
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Post by markm on May 1, 2021 16:15:45 GMT -5
Mr.B,
So far I'm been able to maintain everything myself with the occasional spare part from the manufacturer, so I have no personal experience. Perhaps other members can suggest a a good repair shop or ones to avoid?
Mark
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Post by JuergenT on Aug 23, 2021 2:11:16 GMT -5
Hi
I have 3 GP38 (UP394,391,366) and they run (original) very poor.
To fixed this, I conectet them with wire between the locos
and also I wired direct from the strip to the decoder (I install the Digitrax DZ123Z0)
Over 3 years the locos run well on my home layout with 24 coal porters.
In 2020 they run slower, so I changed to MTL GP35.
Last week I try to fixed the problem, check all the wires, clean the trucks, rest the decoder but no result.
The CV 5 was 000 and 255, but the highspeed is max 20 m/h (ervery loco). The CV 6 is 000
Has anybody an idear, what can I check, change or.....?
Best Regards
Jürgen
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Post by alcors110 on Aug 23, 2021 18:31:50 GMT -5
Great tip , the strips on my gp38-2 were loose out of the box so I removed the shell and used a good quality tweezer to reinstall and apply a tiny bit of Aleenes clear gel tacky glue with a toothpick, works awesome.
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Post by BAZman on Aug 23, 2021 22:23:10 GMT -5
Ya know . . . . if the loco is 4 years old, the lubrication *might* be getting a little gummy (depending on environment)
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As a temporary solution, I put a tiny piece of kapton tape over it once I had it back in the slot to hold it while I finished putting the trucks back on and tightening things up. Then pulled it off right before I put the shell on.
