We received this tip from one of our customers and thought we would pass it on. It can also be applied to other AZL's locos like the SD70ACE series and GP30s. - Rob
When recently taking apart an AZL KCS Z GP38-2 to clean, I noticed that you the wipers can fall out easily when the locomotive is disassmbled, They are not easy to get back in place or hold in place when putting the locomotive back together.
So, here’s a tip for your Z-scale do-it-yourselfers. Insert the alloy wipers from one end of each half of half of the molded frame into the grooves until in place. Then, take white glue, like Elmer’s, and spread a thin film into the grooves. Repeat for the other half. Let dry overnight then reassemble. Works like a charm. Be careful not to gunk up the grooves or wipers with too much glue, or I fear you may have trouble with electrical contact.
Post by modelwarships on Jun 14, 2020 22:33:41 GMT -5
I have had some success in dimpling the strip where it fits into the slot. Helps hold it in place so you can reassemble. One of my SD70ACE's had the strips fall out when I pulled the shell to convert to DCC. Just place the strip on a piece of wood and drive a tiny nail into the middle part of the strip. If you overdo it, just flatten it out with needle nose pliers and try again.
The ultimate fix is to replace the strip with a wire soldered to the truck tabs and connected directly to the frame. . It eliminate the sometimes poor electrical contact that occurs with this type of elec pickup. I have a really old GP38 running around the layout that never seems to stall anywhere due to poor contact. I am seriously considering retro fitting my entire fleet in this manner.
Do you have a sketch or photo for this fix. Mine fell out when I pulled shell to oil... brand new gp38.
I don't have an exact photo of the fix. In this video, you can see the copper contacts on the new GP38. Once you have the contact in place, just add a little white glue. I have to admit, the contacts are tricky putting when trying to get them back into the chassis.
I dealt with this last night. Got my new "exchange" mechs and wanted to get decoders in them post haste. Bad news is, once one starts popping out, it will keep doing it. Good news is, if you're impatient like me and don't want to wait overnight for the glue to dry (great tip, btw) to finish your decoder install, you get pretty good at reinstalling it. As a temporary solution, I put a tiny piece of kapton tape over it once I had it back in the slot to hold it while I finished putting the trucks back on and tightening things up. Then pulled it off right before I put the shell on.
The Great news is it seems to me that the decoders fit much better in the new chassis. I'm not sure if this is one of the touted improvements or just dumb luck, but the decoder went in nice and snug and seems to be working fine so far. (then I moved on to my GP30...not so much on the fit of the decoder.)
You ARE talking about the 'side attached to the cast slots in the frame', aren't you?
Is so, I've found those and the SD45' main pickup issues. Many of the had a drop of clear glue (all-in on CA bet) *where* the contacts tension spot (not between them). This will quickly creep (capillary principle) then then when dried, pulled the contact points away from the metal frame. I put the CA drop *between* the contact points.
Matt in our BAZ BoyZ group had the super worst running GP38, futzing with it every way at every show (Failure Engineer) but he missed that. I found on the SD45's and looked at the GP38, cleaned the surfaces and put back on the track. Perfect.
These 'Lubes, Pastes" have very poor conduction but help keep the contacts clean. Especially the Pen, which dries minutes after and can be easy wiped off (maybe leaving some traces). Chassis and chassis pickup strip where clean well.
And, of course the famous "Conducta-Lube" This product has NO conductivity, it just surrounds all the metal surfaces so the are harder to oxidize.