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Post by Rob Albritton on Dec 19, 2014 10:14:50 GMT -5
BTW: I thought they had also did a Western Pacific series as well Hi Mark, We will release 16 different road names for the ACF 2-Bay hoppers. I think there will be something for everyone in this production run. Best, -Rob(A) AZL
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Post by Rob Albritton on Dec 17, 2014 16:23:46 GMT -5
There is an old BBC comedy called "Yes, Minister" - a paraphrase from is comes to mind: "While it would be premature to commit ourselves to a definitive position on the merits or even its existence, a committee is being struck to consider the possibility of a decision, which shall be taken, beyond question, at the appropriate juncture, in due course, in the fullness of time."
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Post by Rob Albritton on Dec 6, 2014 15:34:51 GMT -5
Nice looking L&N pieces. Are you going to release something to pull them? Hmmm...... .... maybe!!!!
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Post by Rob Albritton on Dec 5, 2014 9:48:30 GMT -5
Willy, At least I'm glad you posted one more time. I think I finally understand. In a previous post you mentioned your wiring was like a modem to the house. Well, I read into that you were using the 4 conductor RJ11 telephone type cables, which nearly always use #28 wire. Now that you tell us you're using CAT 5 cables, I feel comfortable with your wiring. CAT 5 cables are #24 AWG wires. They should be able to handle about 600mA reliably. Not ideal but probably close enough for your needs. I checked and from a DC standpoint there should be no advantage to changing your layout to CAT 6 cables. The only real difference between the two types how high a frequency signal they will conduct. BTW has anyone noticed that all the manufacturers of feed tracks supply #28 (or the International equivalent) wire with their track? Mark I totally agree with Mark. In thought I thought you were using a DB-9 or DB-25 printer cable. Those absolutely use 28 AWG and are useless for model trains. Your cat5 wires should work fine. I think you have already discovered the weak link in the chain: the connectors. And that is a plague for just about any wire size. Regarding #28 AWG to tracks - yes - they do that as a bit of a circuit breaker - and the wire is cheaper. I've been known to use #24 solid to the tracks (for short block of less than 3 feet of rail) and then #18 for bus wire between modules, but I avoid the #28 stuff. Good, cheap bus wire: lamp cord. You can get it at any hardware store for a reasonable price.
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Post by Rob Albritton on Dec 3, 2014 17:07:55 GMT -5
Besides, I'm not likely going to live long enough anyway so there you go. And I thought I was having a bad day! So lets make the most out of what we have (resources and time) Maybe you have some unused pins on those cables? If you double them up on the main runs to your transformer, you will double the amperage you can transmit. Not a perfect solution, but could be enough to do the trick! Best, -Rob
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Post by Rob Albritton on Dec 1, 2014 18:57:59 GMT -5
I also have no problems with most of my Marklin stuff but I know from experience if they are stiff from sitting on the shelf, the breaker in the RC02 will trip. I actually use the Rokuhan's circuit breaker to let me know when it is time to clean and lube my Marklin gear. If it pops the breaker, it's time for a little maintenance work! (Ahh yes, 1972 technology: slot car motors on 6.5mm rails - we have made progress since then!)
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Post by Rob Albritton on Dec 1, 2014 18:44:41 GMT -5
I don't know what your point is here Rob, but these cables are being used to transfer power from one module to the next on my entire layout and all my engines perform to specs. Because my layout is modeled on the Canadian Rockies, my trains move slower then they would if on the prairies, so slow speeds especially on grades is the norm. If by your statement you are saying that I should be pushing more power to my engines, I don't see the need too. I don't run any of my trains at full throttle anyway, my layout doesn't require it. But now, everything seems to be working just the way it should. My point is that you are using wires that are too small. They will cause you problems and frustration over time. Data cables frequently use #28 AWG wire inside them. That is a very small wire. It works fine for sending computer data, but you are on the edge of what will function for a model train. In fact, that size wire will only carry 0.228 amps. Our club uses AWG #18 (2.3 amps) for connections between modules, and AWG #22 (0.92 amps) for feeds to tracks. We think that is about 4 times what we really use, but the extra buffer lets our trains run reliably over long distances. Wire is not that expensive compared to other things on our layouts. It does not matter that you are not running your locomotives at full throttle: The wheel rotating on the rail makes for a "dirty" connection - it is constantly getting better and worse as the wheel rolls. Since you are running only the bare minimum wire needed to carry the current, when your locomotive hits even the smallest piece of dirt, it will stall for a fraction of a second. When contact is made again, the continued rotation of the motor will pulse power down the line in excess of what the wire can handle. Do that thousands of times in an hour or so, and eventually that tiny wire is going to get hot, and could easily burn away a connector inside the cable. In fact, I think that is exactly what happened to you. So, I'm not saying it will not work - clearly it does. I'm saying it will not be reliable. And not being reliable does not sound like fun. And I'm here to have fun, not track down burnt out wires. Perhaps the next time you make some electrical changes you might want to consider upgrading your wires? AWG #22 or larger is a good choice. I think everyone on this forum wants you to enjoy your layout. What I say is out of support and friendship. Best, -Rob
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Post by Rob Albritton on Dec 1, 2014 11:30:27 GMT -5
When I started swapping out the data transfer cables between this modules and the those on either side, I came across one cable that seemed to be the cause. Ahhhh. Good bit of detective work! But you know data cables are designed for exceptionally low currents, right? Like between 250 and 500 milliamps max. A single Marklin or MTL locomotive will draw that much power. Our AZL locomotives draw about 100 milliamps.
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Post by Rob Albritton on Nov 21, 2014 18:47:43 GMT -5
I've checked all the connections again under the bench to see if maybe a strand of wire was touching another that is shouldn't be but all appears to be OK. A strand of wire would probably cause a full blown short - depending on your power pack. Either that or it would glow in the dark like a light bulb. I have examined all joints with a magnifying glass and all the tracks appear to be tight. Joints can appear just fine and not be working at all. Looking at them with a magnifying glass will only show the most obvious of problems (although I've also had them where they look like they are not connected at all, and they still carry full power!) A multimeter is the only way to get to the truth. I was wondering if maybe it's the engines themselves that are doing this, but ALL OF THEM? I just don't know. Unless you modeled an old Indian Burial ground on that middle module, I think it is not the locos.
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Post by Rob Albritton on Nov 21, 2014 18:41:13 GMT -5
This sounds to me like your power bus wires to the middle module are not actually supplying any power to the module and your track is making the actual electrical connection - on top of that, your rail joiners have a little dirt / lose between modules. That would explain why the power dips in the middle.
This has happened to our module group at shows, so don't just reject it out of hand.
Your going to have to do some uncomfortable testing to find the problem here - namely your going to have to disconnect the tracks that bridge one module to the next to confirm that your bus wires are actually providing the power, and that they are carrying full voltage.
Once the modules work independently, then you can start putting them back together. Until then, your just mixing colors in a bucket - you will never know where the problem really is.
Also, if you don't have one, invest $15 in a digital multimeter.
Good luck - support is here for you!
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Post by Rob Albritton on Nov 21, 2014 18:33:08 GMT -5
Don Avila asked me a question in an email that deserves repeating here:
"With Marklin/AZL soon to announce the E8 in Southern Pacific Daylight colors can you tell me if TCS will have a 'drop in' DCC decoder"?
Answer:
It has already been done.
The TCS AZL4 is already 100% compatible with the E8, E9, and F3 locomotives that will be released soon. The Digitrax DZ123Z0 decoder is also 100% compatible with the same locomotives.
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Post by Rob Albritton on Nov 21, 2014 10:22:19 GMT -5
MILW 800 had 4x small 36' cap top roof fans, winterization hatch and closed skirting. The ACI bar code belongs onto the railing or cab. All pieces and bits to get it right are in your product range. BTW: MILW 302 had a large winterization hatch and the numbers on a separate board.... You have caught Hans. Well done! He is now required to perform the ancient viking walk of shame, which apparently involves a 6 foot snowdrift, reindeer antlers, and a troll.
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Post by Rob Albritton on Nov 19, 2014 10:04:38 GMT -5
That looks awesome! Will we see them soon? Before summer 2015 is the current estimate. Here is an engineering drawing:
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Post by Rob Albritton on Nov 17, 2014 22:09:23 GMT -5
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Post by Rob Albritton on Nov 12, 2014 23:50:14 GMT -5
Awesome research guys - many thanks for the findings and comments!
I found some Rokuhan 120mm track - I'll use that as a proxy for the time being until I can get my hands on some R022 turnouts to do some real testing.
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