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Post by boxcarwilly on Oct 11, 2017 10:37:09 GMT -5
After several lengthy discussions with John, who is manufacturing his own lights to be compatible with Rokuhan light hubs, (Thanks Rob at Z Track), I've decided not to give up on my lighting project. I'm encouraged by what John has to offer and about all his advice. Since I can't use my Chinese lights with this system, I don't know what to do with them. I've also made enquiries into the Woodland Scenics Just Plug system and again, my existing lights will not work. So I'm going to have to purchase lights that are designed specifically for these systems. I've been researching both and the Rokuhan system appears to be a lot more economical. The one thing that bothers me about it is, while both offer lights for structures, Rokuhan does not offer lights for things light streets, and station platforms and the like. Woodland offers street lights but only in N scale. They produce nothing for Z, but their structure lights could still be used in this case. It sort of leaves a huge gap in what one can do, so I'm hoping that John's lights will fill that gap. Again, thanks Rob for steering me in that direction. I'm eager to see what he has available when he releases them.
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Post by boxcarwilly on Sept 26, 2017 9:51:49 GMT -5
Mark:
First, let me say thank you for your diagram and explanation. Second, even with the this diagram which you have taken so much time to do, it does not really explain to me how I'm going to accomplish what I want to do. Obviously, you know more about this stuff then I do, so after examining yours and Jeff's figures and diagram, I've decided to abandon the entire project. Clearly this is beyond my level of expertise. If we were talking 2 or 3 lights being hooked into the same circuit like in other parts of my layout, then I could manage it, but to try to do as many as I had planned, is just too much. I guess I should have paid much more attention to my dad years ago when he tried to show me the basics of electricity and why things work the way they do. I'll proceed with installing the lights, but with the exception of those in the structure, all the rest will not function.
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Post by boxcarwilly on Sept 25, 2017 17:59:23 GMT -5
Jeff:
Thanks for your explanation but the truth is, I really didn't understand a word you wrote. Frankly, I do not have the technical knowledge to comprehend what all your figures mean. But correct me if I'm wrong, are you saying that I can only run 2 or 3 LEDs from one power feed, even with resistors attached to each, before I run into the dimming affect? All these LED's come with resistors included and are specially selected to step power down from a 12V transformer. By how much, I have no idea. I do seem to recall, however, that all these LED's draw 3V or less.
Let me see if I can paint you a picture:
Take two wires, red/black, red being positive and black negative. Run them from the accessory terminal of the power pack. At some point between the pack and the first LED, install a resistor on the positive wire. Now assuming there was some kind of 3 way connector, the positive wire would connect to both sides forming the through part of a T. Now we take the LED and connect the positive side W/O a resistor to the side of the connector which forms the bottom half of the T. Each LED is connected to the positive wire in the same manner. The negative feed from the power pack is done the same way BUT without a resistor.
If I understand what Jeff and mark are saying, this would work for 2 or even 3 LED's and maintain the same brightness level, but beyond that, there would be a drop in power and all remaining LED's would be dimmer?
However, if I do the same thing as above with the main feed wires, but eliminate the resistor from the positive wire between the pack and the first connector, and instead have the resistor on the positive side of the LED which then joins the connector, and continue this process for all 35 LED's, the power would be constant on the through positive, but reduced to each LED as if there were only one LED being powered, therefore, each LED would have the same level of brightness?
One more thing: Can I shorten the wires on the resistor itself without causing any damage or power loss?
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Post by boxcarwilly on Sept 25, 2017 11:39:00 GMT -5
[/quote]I think that what You are calling "lights" are really Led devices . It is not possible to connect Leds in parallel with only one resistor.
So if I understand what you're saying, I have to use a resistor for each LED and not for the main power wire coming from the source. If this is true, it's what I did for my other lighting using LED's. Doing it this way, just makes the job that much more tedious.
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Post by boxcarwilly on Sept 25, 2017 10:24:21 GMT -5
I should have mentioned that in the beginning of my thread, yes they are LEDs. I looked at Marklin and Brawa, but aside from the expense, I don't like the little circuit board that goes with each light. I have one of those now on my layout, and it was a real pain to install. In the end, it doesn't work all that great. I was hoping to find some kind of three way connector but so far have come up empty. I'm intend on using the accessory terminals on a MRC transformer which will be dedicated to just powering lights regardless of where they are.
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Post by boxcarwilly on Sept 24, 2017 12:05:39 GMT -5
I am about to undertake a massive lighting project on the new expansion of my layout and I am seeking some advice as to how to go about it. I have added lights to other sections of my layout with success, but frankly it was very tedious and I'm looking for a much easier and efficient way to accomplish this task. In the past I have used fiber optic cables from a central light source and been disappointed in the results. I have used lights that I have acquired from sources in China which all require resistors to be soldered to one wire and then tying them altogether into a central connection and power source. I have managed to make this latter system work, but the fine wires make it so difficult to see let alone work with. I have a total of 35 lights to add to this new section, two of which will be installed in a building. I am looking for the simplest way to connect the lot without a great deal of must and fuss. Ideally, I would like not to have to deal with resistors on all 35 lights, but I don't know how to do that. I have looked at the lighting system from Woodland Scenics and while I agree it is infinitely easier and efficient to use, they do not make street lights for Z scale nor do they have any plans, now or in the future to do so. The smallest they make is N which is too big for Z scale. I have also looked at the system from Rohukan but it is far too bulky a system to use generally speaking, and again they do not make street lights for Z scale. Additionally, I'm not sure that their system can be expanded far enough for all 35 lights to be controlled from one source. Which brings me to these questions. 1. Since I have to use lights from China which require resistors to be soldered to one wire, is there a quick and easy way to connected them all together? 2. Does anyone know of ready made street lights for Z scale that I could use in place of these lights from China? 3. Does anyone know of a three way connector that allows the main power wire to pass through while a third wire comes in from the side to connect the light which forms a T? 4. Is there such a thing as a quick connect device that takes wires that are not much thicker than a human hair? I have scoured Google and have not been able to find such a device? 5. If using these lights, do I need to use a resistor for each light, or can I use a resistor soldered to the positive wire coming from the power source? Any helpful hints would be greatly appreciated.
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Post by boxcarwilly on Sept 15, 2017 10:20:16 GMT -5
I have just seen the new releases from AZL which includes the Via Rail RDC Budd. All I can say is, SWEET!!! I can't wait to get my fingers on one. It will make a nice addition to my empire.
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Post by boxcarwilly on Sept 5, 2017 10:44:36 GMT -5
I wonder, would that explain why, of the 3 GP38's I have, one runs painfully slower then the other two? Could this one have been an earlier version that had problems? I got my GP 38's about 4 years ago if that means anything.
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Post by boxcarwilly on Aug 5, 2017 14:49:14 GMT -5
Greg: I understand about the glue, but wouldn't that present a problem if one wanted to change the layout of a track or install a turnout or something like that? On all of my modules I use a 1x6" frame with 1x4" support slats one at each end and then evenly spaced along the rest of the module. These are screwed to 2.2 blocks and these slats and blocks are below the top of the 1 x 6 at either 1 1/2 or 2" depth depending on the Styrofoam base I'm using, and that base is the same sheeting contractors use to insulate houses. I get it in 24" wide by 84" long slabs, then cut it in half at the 48" mark. Then drop it inside my module which is 24 x 48 ID and glue it to the slats. If all goes well, the top of the Styrofoam should be even with the top of the frame. Then I just build on top of that. For my 30" wide modules I just add a 6" strip of foam down one side and glue it in place. Then my rough ins for the mountains and all the riser are glued to that base. The tracks are pinned to the risers and so on and so on and so on.
Fit: I'll drop you a line.
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Post by boxcarwilly on Aug 5, 2017 9:16:01 GMT -5
To be clear, when I started into this hobby, I looked at wood as a base, specifically plywood. But I was told not to use wood as a base, but rather a frame to put Styrofoam sheets into because wood has a tendency to warp no matter how much bracing you do. I read an article about this in a train magazine several years ago and it said the same thing. Examples were given as to how to build modules using wood frames and Styrofoam sheets. Many model train clubs here do it this way. My mentor who got me started in Z scale told me the same thing. It is also much lighter if you are moving your layout from place to place as in shows and such. I know one person who build his layout on a solid wood door and regretted later because it warped. So laugh if you will, ridicule me if you will, but this is what I've been told and read about and it's how I've built my layout. How any of you do it, is up to you. I'm not saying it's wrong. Every method has it's pro's and con's. It's up to the individual to decide what's best for him.
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Post by boxcarwilly on Aug 4, 2017 10:10:12 GMT -5
Oddly enough, this was the very first question I asked myself when I first got into model railroading many, moons ago, and as I was told then and later read up on, a foam base on a wood frame seems to be the standard accepted by most model railroaders for many reasons including expansion and other temperature related problems. All of my layout is built this way. I use Woodland Scenics risers on the 1 1/2 to 2" Styrofoam base and all my tracks are fastened with straight or dress making pins. I've done it this way just for the purpose of easy and quick removal to replace turnouts, track or change the design. Of course for those sections that I consider to be final, I have added ballast along both sides like the prototypes and that is held down by a special glue mixture. It all comes back to personal preference. I've never considered gluing or screwing tracks directly to a wood base, but I suppose it has it's merits.
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Post by boxcarwilly on Jul 22, 2017 9:53:54 GMT -5
Well I managed to find some material that will be just perfect for my needs and I didn't even have to leave the house. I was rummaging around in my construction supplies and a came across some very thin pieces of wood that came as supports for my easy chair when I bought it. I cut a piece off one of these slats and put it beside a Micro Train track and the wood is similar in height. So I slipped it under one of my Marklin turnouts and it supports the turnout to the point where there is no noticeable sag or dip in it when an engine passes over it. So this means that the MTL tracks can lay flat on the base, instead of being slopped at both ends from the support under the turnout. All I need to do now is take one of these turnouts and trace a pattern on the wood and go from there. The wood is thin enough that it can be cut with ordinary dress making sheers. It's almost like balsa wood but thicker and stronger. BTW, does anyone have a spare Marklin left hand remote turnout they can part with? I need two asap.
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Post by boxcarwilly on Jul 21, 2017 11:12:02 GMT -5
I discovered that my MTL Geeps, seem to do the job in this regard that I am looked to do. The couplers on the GP 9's and 35's are more aligned with the AZL heavyweight passenger car couplers so I think I'll be using them when needed and leave the 39's for moving freight cars from place to place.
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Post by boxcarwilly on Jul 21, 2017 11:08:45 GMT -5
I'm investigating all avenues to solve this problem. I do not have a fully equipped workshop with which to do many of the things suggested by others. Wish I did. That being said, I use whatever I can find in and around the house or off the shelf. I'm heading to a craft store today to see if I can get the desired thickness of a material for roadbed. The foam matts that I purchased at my local train store, are just two thick and I got the thinnest they had. Thanks Mark and others.
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Post by boxcarwilly on Jul 20, 2017 9:34:27 GMT -5
Thanks. Will do.
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