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Post by QcKraag on Oct 7, 2016 12:37:54 GMT -5
should I build hinged or fixed point turnouts? do any of you have any experience. I will mainly be using #8 and #6 turnouts
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Post by Rob Albritton on Oct 7, 2016 14:45:45 GMT -5
I have had good luck with FastTracks turnout jigs. They produce fixed point turnouts (if I understand the terms you are using) www.handlaidtrack.com/ |
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turnouts?
Oct 7, 2016 16:27:04 GMT -5
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Post by shamoo737 on Oct 7, 2016 16:27:04 GMT -5
should I build hinged or fixed point turnouts? do any of you have any experience. I will mainly be using #8 and #6 turnouts I always used fixed points even on a 4.5. If the trow is too stiff, thin the rails. It's always a compromise. If you thin the rails too much, it will not hold its gauge. |
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Post by QcKraag on Oct 7, 2016 20:30:57 GMT -5
Ok because handlaidrails gives the choice between hinged turnout points or fixed and before doing my first one, and because in HO Scale I used to have hinged points, I wanted to verify your experience to decide which was best...
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Post by domi on Oct 9, 2016 20:02:13 GMT -5
I have built ~20 FT turnouts (and more to follow), and their points are fixed. No issue with this technology. As well as the handle of samples I purchased from Peter Wright 10 years ago or so.
Dom
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Post by BAZman on Oct 10, 2016 11:58:09 GMT -5
For mainlines, mine are always moving points. As Dom and John said, the Fast Tracks and Peter Wrights have all worked very well for us. For narrow gauge, logging, etc., you can certainly use fixed points and move the main rails (economy version ;p ).
Micro-Trains, Peter Wright (no longer in production) and Micro Engineering are all the same rail. It is very easy to pre-bend to the correct gauge. You could add an additional fix point away from the frog as the rail easily bends. As John mentioned, just file away the rail base at the fixed point (Throwbar side) so that it acts as a pseudo-hinge.
Marklin, Rokuhan and Peco rail are wider rail head but about the same rail base. We prefer the Micro-Trains, Micro Engineering and very soon to be Atlas c55 rail.
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Post by QcKraag on Oct 10, 2016 12:51:35 GMT -5
And what equipment do you use for welding, I find them hard to precision weld, what temperature? Also the handlaidrail jig isn't very precise, needed to adjust the frog point and guard rails by hand...
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turnouts?
Oct 10, 2016 14:53:32 GMT -5
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Post by shamoo737 on Oct 10, 2016 14:53:32 GMT -5
I use a 40 watt soldering iron. The positioning of the frog is a skill. Use a six axle to test the distance of the frog. You have to build couple skeletons to see what position is the best.
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turnouts?
Oct 10, 2016 14:56:24 GMT -5
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Post by shamoo737 on Oct 10, 2016 14:56:24 GMT -5
Also, make sure your pieces are fit properly into jig, and use their solder. They are smaller diameter, so you use less. Don't forget to use flux.
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Post by BAZman on Oct 11, 2016 17:00:57 GMT -5
If you narrow the frog rail bases (when you make the 2 exit rail arrow, it will be the outer rail base, mostly at the X end). Point/wing rails too. This lets you tuck the frog rail point in farther. You can tell when it is correct when you look down the point rails and don't see the frog sticking out  |
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Post by QcKraag on Oct 11, 2016 20:55:03 GMT -5
Thanks for all the great advice, just finished my first 2 rails, Indid modify the frog point and also moved the guard rails, even thought of thining the guard rails also for my next builds
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Post by BAZman on Oct 18, 2016 18:20:02 GMT -5
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Post by QcKraag on Oct 18, 2016 19:38:03 GMT -5
Thanks, great advice, I also got my self a controlled temperature welder...
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