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Post by ztrack on Feb 4, 2016 15:56:04 GMT -5
Wow harshness about little old Ztrack. Obviously coming from a non subscriber who doesn't realize how much information is in each issue. To be specific the article is on how to wire the Gaugemaster to a Rokuhan RC03. And no you can't find that on the Internet. I know. I wrote the article.
Also if you think only alcohol and cloth is needed then you are wrong. I have been using Relcos ang Gaugemasters since the 1980s. They help tremendously. You still need to clean the track on occasion. But they really help to eliminate poor performance. You don't need these if you go DCC since DCC applies the same principals as the Gaugemasters. Yes 16v is recommended but I use just the AC off of the power pack. It is a little underpowered but it still does the trick.
Rob
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Post by dave on Feb 4, 2016 16:46:24 GMT -5
Rob...no bashing was intended. I was just surprised that it wasn't mentioned that an additional 16V was needed (not just on your site but on anyone's site). Can you tell me what issue has your article in it? Thanks again for your help.
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Post by markm on Feb 4, 2016 17:09:37 GMT -5
Dave, Have you checked out the manufacturer's HF-2 instructions sheet: www.gaugemaster.com/instructions/hf2.pdfIt describes the voltage and hook-up requirements. It also warns not to use with lighting generators, which the Rokuhan units do. It's not a show stopper, the signal can be easily filtered out. Mark
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Post by ztrack on Feb 4, 2016 17:39:00 GMT -5
Mark I have been testing with the RC03. I don't use the lighting generators and have not found any issues so far. Also, you don't need a full 16 volts. I typically run just off the 12 volt AC. This has been sufficient. FR in Germany offered a step up transformer to go from 12 v to 16 v. I have 2 of these on my home layout. They do make a difference, but not not huge in my opinion. I do see a number of different options available if you search the web for these. It would be interesting to see if we could find an inexpensive one that works. I would like to test it. The article is in the Nov/Dec 2015 issue of Ztrack. Here is the link: www.ztrack.com/issues/issues_15.htmlRob
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Post by BAZman on Feb 4, 2016 20:41:41 GMT -5
You can use a 12 VAC transformer or wall-wart. The Gauge Master is a high frequency, high voltage generator. A few hundred kilohertz with 200-400 volt 'noise'. Each time the load conducts (your loco or light bulb [not LED]), it quenches the high frequency/high voltage to nothing but the DC. As you run, there are 100's of locations, sometimes per second, where you loco/load doesn't fully conduct so it instantaneously kicks in until the load/loco once again is conducting. They do work well, as many have commented. It won't really make a poor running loco run better but it will make a good loco run reliably.
For me, they produce really high voltage (EXTREMELY low, safe current) but bypass capacitors on motors are rated lower than this (but seem to survive fine) and there is near continuous arcing going on between the wheels and rail head. I had pitting on the top of the rails a some spots. Then, I switched to DCC so I really don't have much problems.
Then, there are the $5 track cleaners. Most work well. BrightBoy's are available from many suppliers and are a rubberized material with embedded metal particles. For me, they leave a lot of residue (rubber crumbs) and I would think the same on the rails but they do clean to a shine.
Wipes and such work well but don't take oxidation/corrosion off metal.
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Post by atw on Feb 5, 2016 9:04:58 GMT -5
Wipes and such work well but don't take oxidation/corrosion off metal. That's exactly the point, i.e. the problem I'm fighting. I'm very happy with the Rokuhan track I have on one of my modules (my usual choice is Micro-Track), but somehow it seems to oxidize very quickly - which of course means that hidden track (although access is provided) is a nuisance. In short: I'm not fighting dirt and grime, it's more of a chemical tussle. Which makes the Gaugemaster an interesting option. I had a Relco unit way back in my H0 days and that worked fine, and reading the mostly positive input here I think I'm going to go for that once I have the 16V AC sorted out (or can steal a good idea from here on the forum). cheerZ Adrian
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Post by zscalehobo on Feb 5, 2016 14:56:38 GMT -5
Wipes and such work well but don't take oxidation/corrosion off metal. (cleaning) hidden track although access is provided is a nuisance. I apologize in advance if this is construed as nickeling and diming the community ... but there are a couple of actual released products that allow access into hard-to-reach locations. Viessmann 7840: This is an HO & N product that I am bringing in to see if it can work for z, since the pricing is so attractive: zscalehobo.com/viessmann/7840.html (it's a plastic arm/tool and includes pads). Peter Post 08104: And then there is the dedicated Z scale metal tool version from Peter Post that I have in stock (a more comprehensive and expensive kit): www.zscalehobo.com/peter_post/08104.htmlThe N scale version of the Peter Post tool actually telescopes. However the head is quite a bit larger. I have had Z customers buy the N version simply due to the additional reach and they like it.
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Joes
Fireman
Posts: 84
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Post by Joes on Feb 6, 2016 18:01:07 GMT -5
Gaugemasters are/were the best thing I've ever used in Z period. I might have quit Z without them before I even really got started. Before MTL and AZL came out with the newer generation diesels, a person ran marklin steam or MT f-7's, and they had pick up issues. The difference in performance was jaw dropping.
You can power them with the AC source of a power pack. I choose to buy my own walwart source from Radio shack. Yes, they are used for DC not DCC but boy do they work. Now I will say if you are running some newer equipment they might not be as big a difference but go ahead and get a 3 pole marklin steam loco and try running it with and without. Then you will understand. If you have not ever ran equipment like that then you won't notice as much.
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Post by dave on Feb 6, 2016 23:28:19 GMT -5
Good evening...thanks for all of your input. I went ahead and ordered a Gaugemaster. I just re-read Mark's post about the constant lighting from the Rokuhan controller and am a little worried about that. We'll see what happens. Thanks again.
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Post by markm on Feb 7, 2016 11:04:54 GMT -5
Dave, The constant lighting signal from the controller can be easily suppressed with a small capacitor, probably about 0.1uFd, across the controller output. I'll play with it next week and post my results. If you were planning on using Rokuhan lighting, I looked at the A009 car light I have and I don't think the circuit will hold up well to the HF-1 pulses.
Mark
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Post by boxcarwilly on Feb 7, 2016 11:55:46 GMT -5
A very interesting subject to be sure and I use a combination of methods to clean my track. As for the Aztec car cleaner, I have two and I push them ahead of an engine and this seems to work really well. The thing I don't like about this particular car is the fact that every so often you have to disassemble it and clean the wheel in alcohol or soapy water then let it dry. As for the residue left behind, again I use a combination of tools, but mostly alcohol on a lint free cloth wrapped around the flat end of my re-railer. I also use a track cleaning eraser for troublesome and hard to reach spots. For areas where I have lots of room to work and also for tunnels, I use the Woodland Scenics N scale track cleaning tool and pads. Too bad they don't make it for Z scale. It does the job, but because it's N scale, it a bit hard to control and sloppy.
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Post by theprez on Feb 16, 2016 6:09:26 GMT -5
Is anyone using the Gaugemaster with Rokuhan turnouts?
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Post by BAZman on Feb 18, 2016 0:19:58 GMT -5
Why do you ask? It is just track too.
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Post by theprez on Feb 18, 2016 5:52:20 GMT -5
Well, first production of the Rokuhan turnouts were prone to spring melting in case of shortcut or DCC voltage scenario. I helped them to test a new spring version more tolerant to high voltage and spikes. I don't know if or when the new springs started to be used for the market. I am not expert but since the Gaugemaster works at such electrical level I would like to know if it was normally used in such scenario without problems.
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Post by ugeesta on Feb 21, 2016 0:14:02 GMT -5
Mark I have been testing with the RC03. I don't use the lighting generators and have not found any issues so far. Also, you don't need a full 16 volts. I typically run just off the 12 volt AC. This has been sufficient. Rob Rob. Does it matter how the gaugemaster is wired off the transformer? I'm using the old blue Marklin ones.
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