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Post by mgatdog on Oct 12, 2012 19:52:26 GMT -5
I've not had to much experience on painting ,or repainting . Should I strip the paint before painting? What do you use to remove the paint that won't harm the plastic? What few I have done is with nondec models so I never had this issue of stripping before painting . Z scale doesn't offer much in nondec engines and cars.
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Post by domi on Oct 13, 2012 1:44:07 GMT -5
My only repainting experience is with a MTL GP35. I indeed stripped it prior to repainting (and that's why i'm crying for undecs, thank you MM Albritton, Riddervold and Kluz for hearing us, with the forecoming undec GP38s!). I consider that's better for detail appearance. For that engine I soaked the shell in a 90° alcohol bath, for 90 minutes, and easily stripped the paint with an old toothbrush. But it appears AZL loco shells are more difficult to stripe, I've no experience with these.
Dom
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Post by cjhayes2424 on Oct 13, 2012 3:46:05 GMT -5
Hi Bob,
I recommend 91% Isopropyl Alcohol to strip AZL plastic - make sure it's 91%. It also works great on removing decals if you want to keep the paint intact.
If you are looking to strip an AZL engine, my first recommendation is to familiarize yourself with "how to" dismantle the shell. As you're aware, this is real delicate stuff so take your time - especially around the cab. Once you have the shell apart, remove the clear plastic front/rear lights(on the short and long hood/inside the shell) and the cab windows(they're a bit tricky - a good pair of needle nose tweezers and a couple toothpicks will help with removal).
I use several items to remove the paint: q-tips, any fine/soft/bristle paint brush with some stiffness ( I use a Loew-Cornell Comfort Liner Brush 3350 and a Loew-Cornell White Nylon Round Brush 795), a very soft worn toothbrush and pointed wood toothpicks. The last two items are used sparingly.
Submerge the cab, shell and walkways into an alcohol bath. Note: don't try to remove the handrails before they are stripped. After 30 minutes or so, check on the items to see how well it is working. If the paint hasn't started to lift, give it more time. Once the process starts, take a q-tip and gently rub the shell. You might have to repeat this step a few times. I use q-tips to remove the majority of paint. If you use a soft toothbrush, be cautious of applying too much pressure for fear of marring the parts. I use the side/edge of the brush and move in one direction - very gently. You'll find, once the major portions are stripped, there are some real fine crevasses and spots where the paint just wont come off. This is where I use the two brushes -- they're slightly stiff, soft bristle brushes that wont scratch the plastic/brass when pressure is applied to those tricky areas. And on some occasions, I use a pointed toothpick to remove small stubborn specks - don't press too hard otherwise the plastic or brass can get scratched.
On the walkways, be careful not to bend the hand rails. The paint should come off relatively easy. I didn't remove the side rails/skirts because, well, I couldn't - the adhesive just wouldn't give(and I didn't need to take them off). You'll find, once you get the paint stripped, the front and rear handrails should pop out by gently pushing a toothpick through the holes where they're mounted.
It's not for the faint of heart but if there's a road name you want and it's not available, it's your best bet. I can't speak for painting over it, never tried that.
Best of Luck CJ
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Post by catt on Oct 13, 2012 8:21:06 GMT -5
When it comes to strip or not to strip I first consider the paint already applied.If it is thick (like the old Bachmann paint) it is an automatic strip.
If it is a decently applied single colour and it will not clash with the new colour I will just remove the lettering and repaint.From what I have seen on the GP 38 the paint is very good so only lettering needs to go.
I am though waiting for the undecs for some custom paint work.
Though this is off subject consider this my vote for a new shell with out dynamic brakes even if it is simply a replacement shell.
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Post by mgatdog on Oct 13, 2012 8:37:23 GMT -5
Thanks Dom and CJ No doubt slowly but sure our complaining or begging for undec's is coming threw. The other guy's did produce some undec's in cars and caboose and had for awhile some engine shells.Bought a few ,but they ran out on engines. CJ sounds like I 'm in for a 8 hr shift of work. Wonder if pays good. LOL No just kidding .Thanks for the break down and good points on how to strip the paint. Can't wait to get started on my first azl caboose.Transforming a WC 17 to MGA like photo below. i.imgur.com/XE8Lp.jpg
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Post by mgatdog on Oct 13, 2012 8:50:15 GMT -5
When it comes to strip or not to strip I first consider the paint already applied.If it is thick (like the old Bachmann paint) it is an automatic strip. If it is a decently applied single colour and it will not clash with the new colour I will just remove the lettering and repaint.From what I have seen on the GP 38 the paint is very good so only lettering needs to go. I am though waiting for the undecs for some custom paint work. Though this is off subject consider this my vote for a new shell with out dynamic brakes even if it is simply a replacement shell. Hi Catt I was thinking about just painting over it.Seems to be a thin coat on the AZL caboose .But I thought .I 'd better ask you young pups that ,since you have been doing this for awhile. Thanks Bob
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Post by cjhayes2424 on Oct 13, 2012 9:51:47 GMT -5
... Can't wait to get started on my first azl caboose.Transforming a WC 17 to MGA like photo below. i.imgur.com/XE8Lp.jpgYou doing a repaint or a bash? 'Cause these need an overhaul. Make sure you move the stack to the correct position for starters...
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Post by mgatdog on Oct 13, 2012 14:10:44 GMT -5
... Can't wait to get started on my first azl caboose.Transforming a WC 17 to MGA like photo below. i.imgur.com/XE8Lp.jpgYou doing a repaint or a bash? 'Cause these need an overhaul. Make sure you move the stack to the correct position for starters... Thanks CJ really didn't notice that.
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Post by eagsc7 on Oct 15, 2012 2:49:14 GMT -5
I'm needing a set of the F59PHI for a total re-paint. The Metrolink ones to be specific, but in the Undecorated would be Prefered.
The Steaks
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Post by taqo999 on Feb 15, 2013 9:40:12 GMT -5
Dude if you have not experienced the painting then you use the strip before the painting..Alcohol is the best for remove the painting and it does not harm the plastic..MEK is also good for the removing the paint.
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Post by domi on Feb 17, 2013 3:40:11 GMT -5
I'm needing a set of the F59PHI for a total re-paint. The Metrolink ones to be specific, but in the Undecorated would be Prefered. The Steaks Have there been any undec F59PHI?? Not sure of that... Dom
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Post by catt on Feb 17, 2013 5:58:35 GMT -5
I think the GP38-2 is the first undec unit.If it sells well AZL will be encouraged to make more undecs.
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Post by ztrack on Feb 17, 2013 9:32:53 GMT -5
Actually the 2nd undec. AZL offered the RDCs as undecs. The F59PHIs were not offered as undecs. But we do have plenty including just the locos. Strip away! I have seen some very interesting F59PHI repaints form the West Coast guys including a Cascade F59PHI and Operations LifeSaver versions. Rob
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Post by modelwarships on Mar 5, 2013 12:53:52 GMT -5
Where are you guys finding decals for Z-scale? I want to paint up some GP-38's in BN white face and don't see decals anywhere.
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Post by markm on Mar 5, 2013 14:42:38 GMT -5
model.... Not a simple answer and usually someone expresses their unhappiness with it. You can print them yourself on an ink jet. Their are some limitations due to the characteristics of ink jet ink. There are people who will print them for you: quality is a little better and fewer limitations but plan on buying one less loco. They advertise on other sites. You can use decals from other scales. Take a ruler to your LHS and start measuring. I found the WP Feather River door decal works as a Z scale tender decal. If it's one color, you can get one of the laser guys to cut you a pad, and print all you want, just like Ben Franklin, although I haven't heard for this being done in model railroading. "white face" doesn't mean much to me since I only model west of the Rockies and south of the 38th parallel, but if you can post an example I might be able to be more specific. Mark
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