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Post by gyroflyer on May 14, 2015 15:19:14 GMT -5
Hi, I am thinking of doing some scratch building and was wondering where I could get wood that would be appropriate for this scale. Northeastern Scale Lumber has some nice stuff but I don't think it would work for Z. I was hoping to find clapboard siding that would work for our scale. northeasternscalelumber.com/shop/clapboard-siding.htmlMark
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Post by Rob Albritton on May 14, 2015 17:10:55 GMT -5
Hi Mark,
I do not know of a Z scale lumber supplier, but a few options:
1) use N scale or the smallest you can find 2) injet print out a good looking pattern that resembles what you're trying to scratch build. It can be amazingly realistic. 3) See about having someone laser cut you some actual wood to your specs.
Best, -Rob(A)
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Post by markm on May 14, 2015 17:43:09 GMT -5
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Post by Curn on May 15, 2015 0:43:37 GMT -5
If you need inspiration, check out the Gray Brothers ( graybrothersrr.com ). All of their buildings are scratch built. I have no idea what clapboard they are using. Plastruct also sells down to 1/16" clapboard if you would prefer to work with polystyrene. Micro-Mark has some 1/32 clapboard. Check out the NESL scribed sheeting. This might be what the Gray Brothers are using. It goes as small as 0.025". northeasternscalelumber.com/shop/scribe-sheathing.htmlMatt
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Post by gyroflyer on May 16, 2015 0:56:33 GMT -5
Mark, I built one of the Z Micron art bridges and really blew it. I can solder well and have a nice soldering station but it still kicked my butt. I've been building a lot of laser cut stuff and love it. I just feel more comfortable with the wood kits.
Mark
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Post by markm on May 16, 2015 8:40:15 GMT -5
Mark, Yeah brass can be a bit of a challenge: no matter how much experience one has soldering wire and PCBs, brass is different. When I built the Micron deck girder bridge, I think I used solder about 6 times, just in a couple of corners to enhance stability. Otherwise I used CA. For scratch building brass has its place. If you're constructing a building with a faux front, brass is a good choice. I generally don't do too much in brass, only when I want the detail. Like you I like the laser kits, fast and easy to bash.
Mark
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Post by gyroflyer on May 16, 2015 19:36:08 GMT -5
Mark,
I know that you could use epoxy, ca, or solder. Maybe I should have tried the ca. Micron made a very nice girder bridge though.
Mark
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Post by Admin on May 25, 2015 14:00:07 GMT -5
I've built several Micron Art bridges and began using my resistance soldering setup with the tweezer handpiece. While this is great for detail work and forms a very strong bond, I moved to this Loctite CA for all the very fine detail pieces and eventually, even the bigger joins: www.loctiteproducts.com/p/sg_ug_cntrl/overview/Loctite-Super-Glue-ULTRA-Gel-Control.htmThey say it's rubber toughened, knowing nothing about the science of this, all I can say is this this CA really works well on brass. I also use it to tack wood pieces together when building, then go over these joins with a brush and Gorilla wood glue for more strength. John Raildig
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Post by gyroflyer on May 27, 2015 15:22:34 GMT -5
Thanks John, I'll try this. I don't want to give up on Micron Art yet. Any advice on building with brass is appreciated.
Mark
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Post by Admin on May 28, 2015 11:12:40 GMT -5
Mark, I do have a a pair of general rules I follow with brass, these work for me. On key joints or on larger joints, where possible I like to solder. Here's a shot of part of the Micron Art Pratt bridge soldered. I probably could have gone Loctite CA here but this was an easy solder. Even when soldering I always tack the pieces with the gel CA so nothing slips while I'm soldering. Go ridiculously slow when building. In wood kits as you know there's a flex to the finer pieces... in brass this "flex" tends to become bends that never quite come perfectly straight again. If you do have to do any brass bending, pick up a Bug bender: www.raildig.com/useful-tools/the-bug/Aside from this are some basic tools like a good brass sprue cutter and some jewelers files for the sprue nubs. I also keep a machinist's square around for everything, it's way too easy so make a solder joint off-kilter! I do find these basic steps help a ton with my brass assembly. John Raildig
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Post by gyroflyer on May 29, 2015 1:36:27 GMT -5
Great advice, thank you John.
Mark
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Post by Admin on May 29, 2015 1:55:51 GMT -5
You're welcome Mark... have fun with your brass! John Raildig
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