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Post by Rob Albritton on Nov 3, 2014 21:45:00 GMT -5
Hi Guys, I have good news! At long last I can report that TCS has made their AZL4 drop in DCC decoder public, and they are available for sale! This is the first FOUR FUNCTION decoder for AZL locomotives and it is compatible with all of our 5 digit part number diesel locomotives: SD70/75, GP7/9, GP30, and GP38-2 as well as our announced F3, E8, SD45, and ES44AC. The AZL4 retails for $42.75 from the TCS web site. Compatible Locomotives: (where "x" means any digit) AZL610xx-x SD70/75 AZL620xx-x GP7/9 AZL621xx-x GP30 AZL625xx-x GP38-2 For more information see TCS: www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Products/Decoders/Z-Scale/Z%20Series.htmlThe TCS AZL4 joins the Digitrax DZ123Z0 (compatible with the same locomotives) as the second drop in decoder available for AZL locomotives. AZL pioneered the concept of a Universal size PCB that would allow DCC manufactures to produce one decoder compatible with our entire product line. We continue to strive to make this our standard for all future locomotives where practical. Enjoy your (DCC) trains! |
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Post by BAZman on Nov 11, 2014 11:20:04 GMT -5
Yep ! Ditch lights, dual (independent) nose lights, number boards, interior lighting. Going to be many Digitrax replacements.
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Post by Rob Albritton on Nov 21, 2014 18:33:08 GMT -5
Don Avila asked me a question in an email that deserves repeating here:
"With Marklin/AZL soon to announce the E8 in Southern Pacific Daylight colors can you tell me if TCS will have a 'drop in' DCC decoder"?
Answer:
It has already been done.
The TCS AZL4 is already 100% compatible with the E8, E9, and F3 locomotives that will be released soon. The Digitrax DZ123Z0 decoder is also 100% compatible with the same locomotives.
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Post by charlie on Dec 3, 2014 4:27:04 GMT -5
Hi everyone,
I was wondering if there are DCC decoder available for AZL steams (Challenger, Big Boy, AC12-Cab forward and Mikado)?
I may consider making a DCC layout instead of DC... but it will only depends on these DCC decoders availability.
Thanks
Charlie
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Post by tjdreams on Dec 3, 2014 16:50:02 GMT -5
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Post by charlie on Dec 5, 2014 4:30:38 GMT -5
Thank you David, it seems ok for the mikados  ....still have to be brave enough to open a big brass steam... :s |
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Post by patrice on Sept 7, 2015 8:31:32 GMT -5
Yep ! Ditch lights, dual (independent) nose lights, number boards, interior lighting. Going to be many Digitrax replacements. I looked at the picture of the AZL4 and I don't understand how it is possible to control independant nose lights, interior light and number boards. Do we have to add something to the PCB to have that kind of precision or is it really all included with the drop-in decoder ? I don't even see a light (maybe it very small LED but I don't see it). Thank you Patrice |
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Post by markm on Sept 7, 2015 11:17:40 GMT -5
Patrice,
Yes, there is some additional hardware required. The LEDs connect between the green or purple wires and the +12V wire. As for 3 additional independent functions, I don't see it with only two outputs. However, if you're using the AZL4 in an E or F unit, the reverse headlight function is meaningless and that could be repurposed.
Hope this helps,
Mark
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Post by davestubbs on Sept 7, 2015 11:31:13 GMT -5
Hi Patrice,
The AZL4 has 1 Fwd and 1 Rev LED on the board. it also has 2 more solder pad that you can solder extra functions on to add whatever type of lights you want. So you can add all of what Jeff is saying but only have 2 controls. For example nose lights, number boards, and Ditch lights work off the first pad (function 3)and will all turn on/off with that function button. On the second pad (function 4) you run the interior lights. To get flashing ditch lights I believe you will need to run 1 to each pad and that will eat up all extra functions but allow you create the flashing back and forth with decoder programming.
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Post by patrice on Sept 9, 2015 21:53:07 GMT -5
Thank you guys
If I understand well: what I get from AZL4 compared to Digitrax DZ123Z0 is an opportunity to do more but nothing more if I just "drop it in".
In other words: If someone just puts the decoder in the loco and use it like that, there is no plus value to the four fonctions of the AZL4 compared to the two functions of the Digitrax DZ123Z0 since two of the four functions of the AZL4 are pads that can be used if you solder something on it. If you use both as drop-in decoders, they will do the same? Am I right ?
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Post by markm on Sept 9, 2015 23:14:45 GMT -5
Patrice,
You're right, from a "drop-in" decoder standpoint the two units are about the same. Some people report better BEMF control from one or the other, but I don't think you or I would really notice the difference.
Mark
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Post by shamoo737 on Sept 10, 2015 13:01:06 GMT -5
Patrice, You're right, from a "drop-in" decoder standpoint the two units are about the same. Some people report better BEMF control from one or the other, but I don't think you or I would really notice the difference. Mark Except the 123zo is not truly drop in. You have to shave off some of the solder on the pad. |
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Post by patrice on Oct 1, 2015 15:07:23 GMT -5
I tried both and you are right shamoo, 123Z0 needs a bit of filing.
I put either one in my SD70 and noticed that the front headlight is very low compared to the orginal board. The original PCB has a front light that extends closer to the nose of the engine. 123Z0 and AZL4 lights are very far and ends up with less lighting out of the headlights and in the cab.
I feel like I lost something in the process.
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Post by shamoo737 on Oct 1, 2015 16:05:49 GMT -5
Patrice, you can either solder new longer leds or insert longer fiber optics to reach new shorter led position.
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Post by markm on Oct 1, 2015 18:10:23 GMT -5
The LED on the DCC board is a surface mount unit. Adding "longer leads" would not be easy and unless you have surface mount rework experience I wouldn't recommend it. If you compare the OEM and DCC boards, the OEM uses a top view LED mounted on it's side (a bit of a kluge...sorry AZL) and the DCC is a side view unit. If I were doing the rework, I'd move the LED from the OEM to the DCC board or install a new T3/4 LED.
Hope this helps,
Mark
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....still have to be brave enough to open a big brass steam... :s
