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Post by larryo on Aug 26, 2014 20:31:37 GMT -5
Just received an AZL-66208 #6207 RDC (B&M Model #2), with soldered wires to motor connections, and a DZ123Z0 decoder. Don't have any problem with having to re-solder connections but it appears that both the original lights and the new decoder lights will be on. Is there something I should know? I'm a CNR Doodlebug fan from my early days (1948-1959) in Lindsay ON and these RDC's are as close as I can get until I build my own with my SeaRails Powermax unit. LarryO |
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Post by shamoo737 on Aug 26, 2014 21:40:17 GMT -5
Larry, most of us use TCS Z2 on most hardwire installation.
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Post by shamoo737 on Aug 26, 2014 21:43:29 GMT -5
Having said that, I think I used a DZ125, The RDC is big enough to house the Digitrax decoder, and the bigger decoder is cheaper.
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Post by larryo on Aug 26, 2014 22:14:10 GMT -5
Shamoo737 (sometimes fly 737's in FSX)
Thanks, but already have the 123Z0, and am wondering about the apparent duplicate lighting situation.
LarryO
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Post by shamoo737 on Aug 27, 2014 10:41:21 GMT -5
The 123zo is a drop in decoder. Don't waste it on wiring it. Buy a Digitrax DZ125 that is wired already and doesn't have a led on it already. You bought the wrong decoder for the conversion. With a wired decoder all you have to do is solder the six wires and you are done. with the drop in decoder, you will have to figure out the solder points and add wires, plus you have to insulate the decoder to protect it from shorting.
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Post by markm on Aug 27, 2014 11:18:57 GMT -5
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Post by shamoo737 on Aug 27, 2014 11:26:47 GMT -5
I will look tonight, but I didn't do anything to mine to make it directional.
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Post by markm on Aug 27, 2014 11:47:43 GMT -5
Shamoo,
I haven't done it yet myself, and will probably use the DZ123 I bought for the project. I just bookmarked that thread as being of value, particularly since the advise comes from Robert.
Marrk
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Post by shamoo737 on Aug 27, 2014 11:53:36 GMT -5
Mark, I talk to Ed Turner, and he didn't do anything out of ordinary either. We just matched the color to the right number on the board.
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Post by larryo on Aug 27, 2014 20:22:13 GMT -5
Wow
Thanks for all the suggestions. I found a DZ126 (think the 125 is gone) in my box for other projects. I can place it will all the leads, in the shell of the RDC and still close it up. Once trimmed to length there should be no problem. After a close look, and if I'm "hearing" right, I need to unsolder the hard wired red/black connections from the board, re-solder red to red and black to black wires to the decoder then solder appropriate decoder wires to previously unsoldered pads on RDC, making sure there are no shorts. I'm thinking I could cut the existing LED RDC lighting traces and solder new Blue/White and Blue/Yellow connections to provide the forward/reverse lighting but not sure if this will work.
Thanks to everyone for your insight
That's the essence of these forums - you guys who know, helping guys like me who are learning
LarryO
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Post by shamoo737 on Aug 27, 2014 23:29:13 GMT -5
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Post by larryo on Aug 28, 2014 19:53:42 GMT -5
RDC is up and running on DCC with the DZ126. Now have to do the lighting soldering and the job is done
LarryO
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Post by theprez on Sept 7, 2017 11:08:09 GMT -5
I am a mess in soldering, it does not matter the size or scale  Just to have an idea id it's something i can try... is there any picture around to show what has to be soldered and where in the RDC? |
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Post by markm on Sept 7, 2017 12:06:51 GMT -5
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Post by davestubbs on Sept 7, 2017 14:04:51 GMT -5
Hey Prez quick tip, buy some low temp solder and an adjustable iron. low temp melts around 375-400 deg and will reduce the chance of melting the insulation on the wire.
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