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Post by raidercom on Feb 20, 2024 20:28:37 GMT -5
Hi: I'm just getting started with both z scale and dcc. I have a AZL SD70 and a AZL ES44AC I'm trying to put a Digitrax DZ123Z0 in both of them (tried 2 different decoders in each. I cannot get the decoder boards to slot in properly. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. I've looked at azlforum.com/thread/1069/installing-digitrax-decoder-azl-locomotiveThat video makes it look so easy to just push it forward into place, but from what I'm seeing on both units (both are different, with the SD70 seeming to want more of a push down and forward motion), that the boards angle upwards too much/the front contacts on the decoder seem to be a bit too big. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, but any advise that could be provided would be most appreciated. Just getting frustrated having issues with something that should be a fairly easy process. Thanks -Jeff |
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Post by modelwarships on Feb 20, 2024 20:51:51 GMT -5
Check for excessive solder on the pads that go under the clips on the frame. I've had to sand those down a bit on some locos.
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Post by Kez on Feb 20, 2024 21:13:37 GMT -5
Yes, what he said. Early runs of these decoders were too loose, so Digitrax has been adding a solder blob on those front pads, and it usually needs either filed down or heated and scraped to thin the pad of solder. I just installed eight of them myself, so I know exactly what you were going through.
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Post by BAZman on Feb 21, 2024 2:12:43 GMT -5
or x-acto blade. Watch out for very tiny components nearby.
Scrape some off (one or other or a little of both sides)>
Test if you are getting close by holding one corner of the board into the slot.
The board has to to go in all the way (the back of the board will have chassis standoff with a notch.
MAKE SURE THE DECODER MOTOR TAB(S) ARE NOT TOUCHING THE FRAME. There is insulation but loose. If you have a Meter (e.g. DVM with Ohms measure, put one lead to the frame and the other to the copper motor tab (top of board). Should not read anything).
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Post by raidercom on Feb 21, 2024 18:43:02 GMT -5
Exacto blade with light pressure did the trick.
Thank you very much for your fast responses.
Now to troubleshoot an engine that isn't working properly. Think I need to reapply the isolation tape.
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einot
Engineer
Posts: 104
Member is Online
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Post by einot on Feb 22, 2024 8:10:33 GMT -5
If you've taped over the contacts, they may require cleaning. Multimeter is a really helpfull tool as mentioned above and costs around $20.
-Eino
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Post by BAZman on Feb 22, 2024 11:44:21 GMT -5
If the decoder buzzes, the decoder tab(s) is(are) shorting to the frame.
If the no buzzing, 1 or both decoder tabs are not touching the motor.
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Post by raidercom on Feb 22, 2024 19:16:29 GMT -5
Reapplying the tape seems to have helped with the no movement.
Did a multimeter test from the frame to the motor contacts at the top of the decoder, 0ohm detected. Thank you for this tip, will keep this in mind going forward.
Just working on troubleshooting intermittent movement when the throttle is applied. It is brand new track, just working on validating I did all of the connections with the wire crimps properly atm.
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Post by raidercom on Mar 2, 2024 16:40:18 GMT -5
Any advice for a beginner?
New track
One train works perfectly.
The other (same model decoder) is very sluggish, at 100%, it is about 50% the speed of the other. Every so often is cuts all power, until the train is physically shifted a bit.
I've reapplied electrical isolating tape.
When I measure resistance, it is normally 0, but sometimes I can get actual resistance, when the train stops dead. Sometimes when measuring the resistance, it shows as 0, but buzzes a bit.
My assumption is that the motor pickup tabs aren't 100% isolated, but I've replaced the tape 3 times at this point on both sides (wrapping it around at least twice around the frame that is beside the motor tab[https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073113CD2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details]).
I am awaiting eagerly for AZL to release their CN/CP SD40-2 model!
Thank you for any advice you could provide. Sorry for posting here, I just don't have a model train club near me that I can join and ask questions.
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Post by rgs455 on Mar 3, 2024 1:52:59 GMT -5
Hi Raidercom
When reading thru your description there may be several issues
- pickup problems
Make sure that wheels are clean ( from what I read they are)
Make sure the truck contact nubs touch the contact strips on the frame ( never had problems on AZL with that)
Make sure the area on the contact strips where the nubs pivot are clean, if in doubt give them a gentle treatment with a Cotton rag to remove grease and dirt, and if stubborn use a Fiberglass eraser.
The DCC Board usually sits firm enough that power is fed in.
Motor contacts ( on motor) make sure they are clean-> use Fibrglass Eraser.
The " flags" on the DCC Board should be paralell to the board and have an 85 -90 degree bend. Also clean with above method.
Instead of Tape you can also use Nail Color ( ask your Girlfriend/Partner/Wife/ Daughter..)
This helped me during shows with intermittent shorts on expensive Brass Lokies.
- mechanical issue
Did both engines run well on DC at the same Speed?
If yes then they should run similar on DCC
If not, check for binding issues in the drivetrain. I have an ATL GP9 that had issue.
-Last but not least,
Tweak the CV's on the Decoder.
Compared to the new Z Model decoder for the SD40's the old Digitrax Decoders fall behind, but remember that they date back some years... they are really tough but the motor CV's are limited.
If you want to run the in MU, I usually cut the load regulation CV's down in away that load regulation is almost full at Step 1 , but 0 at full speed.
Good Luck
Boris
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Post by raidercom on Mar 3, 2024 17:59:19 GMT -5
In the process of trying to rule out pickup problems.
Trying to get a DC power pack to do some testing.
After that, will look into the suggestion of nail colour
Thank you for that suggestion.
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