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Post by husafreak on Feb 21, 2023 10:55:44 GMT -5
Off topic but this site is very limited in file size for pictures or videos. For pictures I like to take a picture with my iPhone and email it to myself, it will ask me to choose a file size and small or medium size is always reduced enough to then post. Or use a file reducing program or app. For video it is best to post somewhere else and provide a link.
On topic, wow, very interesting development!
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Post by rgs455 on Feb 21, 2023 14:14:55 GMT -5
I have had this issue on one Rokuhan 110mm LH switch last year. Not as bad as described.. but my engines really jumped over it, but stayed on track. The ones fron this year were all fine, including the curved ones. Looks like a bad batch🤷🏼♂️. Boris
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Post by ztrack on Mar 7, 2023 21:03:30 GMT -5
I was able to research the issue this week. I found an easy and quick adjustment to the turnout is all that is needed. I posted a short 3 minute video showing the issue and the correction. Here is the link:
Rob
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Post by husafreak on Mar 8, 2023 1:17:21 GMT -5
Beautiful
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Post by trainguy on Mar 8, 2023 9:38:33 GMT -5
Rob, Z Track, I have tried to replicate what you are doing by slightly bending the outer leg of the switch point rail downward to create a ramp. I have had no luck. The locomotive always derails then shorts out the Rokuhan controller. I don’t know if there are different degrees of tolerances depending when the turnouts were made. FYI, I joined a Facebook group Z Scale model trains, a search of Rokuhan turnouts with this issue started in May 2022. Brad Boyer
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Post by stevew on Mar 10, 2023 7:35:08 GMT -5
I was probably the one that posted on FB about checking the position of the stock rail. I had one slide on me and it was behaving as you describe. In my case I only use the switches manually. Is there any way you can take a close up photo of one of the turnouts set for the diverging route?
Steve W
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Post by husafreak on Mar 10, 2023 10:18:16 GMT -5
FWIW someone over on Trainboard reported success with this method. I know the moving turnout pieces have a lot of play and also that any binding at all will stop them working electronically so I guess it is a delicate operation.
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Post by BAZman on Mar 10, 2023 12:56:08 GMT -5
When I made a hi-speed video (for slow motion) my switch, I can see that upon entry on the points (a few millimeters), the points ‘tip over’, apparently not able to support the wheels. With a disassembled switch, the points assembly “slides“ along a slightly raised surface underneath. The plate pivots with the vertical “pin“ under the lead of the frog. Noticing that the opposite side of the points assembly, rises up, almost like a “hammock“ effect. The space underneath the frog is roughly o.070” with at least o.050” gap vertically above the points plate. When the loco approaches the from the frog side, the wheel drops down on the points plate which also presses down and tilts it over from that way too. I put a few shim washers under the frog, (above the point plate pole) and that stabilized it quite a bit and still freely move the points.
I ran an open truck assembly and visibly looked at the same action and appears that this flexing plus slight binding due to gauge needs to be looked at closer. I see absolutely no issue with the lead point plate bottom rail being too high. I can visibly see it is not and measure it with a depth micrometer it’s not above the molded rail base. Any locomotive with a flange that large would also hit the plastic nibs on it so it’s “rejected“ theory.
I ran 7 single locos thru and they ride the same as the right hand switch, chuncky, but no problems. But visibly with a MTL GP9 & 35.
I still say that the mid-points tight gauge is contributing to it. Those of us that have mechanical Engineering and Failure Analysis backgrounds love to help.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2023 13:16:44 GMT -5
As I wrote already in the year 2018, I had issues with my MTL GP9 (built from a "military" GP35 by swapping the shell and removing a not fixed part of the chassis) ; it seems that the gauge at the wheels is slightly wider than AZL's ; since both sides of the moving part of the turnout are straight the width is smaller at the middle of this part in divergent position ... and it was not enough for my loco. It didn't derail but ran and shaked like an offroad car. The only solution I found was sending the four axles back to Mr. Marsilius who sold me the GP35 (thanks again to him) for modification, so my GP9 ran over the turnout without issues ...
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Post by trainguy on Mar 14, 2023 13:04:39 GMT -5
I first reported on this issue on 1/22/22, but the problem was kicking me in the butt the entire month of January. After six frustrating weeks, Frank Daniels, ZScale Hobo, got involved after reviewing my post on Facebook. I told him I wanted to buy three LH 110mm turnouts from him but would he test them before shipping. He agreed, but also verified that he was finding mostly failures with his inventory. I received the three new tested turnouts yesterday from Frank. I happily report that all three function as designed, my new switch yard with magnetic track and MTL rolling stock with magna couplers add needed interest to my layout. I want to thank everyone on this forum for their input and thoughtfulness. Again, I want to thank Frank for helping to resolve this issue. Brad Boyer
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Post by dazed on Mar 14, 2023 13:55:29 GMT -5
Glad that Frank was able to help get you back up and running. He's good like that. The bad news in all this...there's about a 90% chance that any Rokuhan turnouts we buy over the next few years will have this issue. Maybe in 7-8 years we'll have a Rokuhan turnout refurb/trade-in program. Only $12 + $18 shipping each.
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Post by Guba on Mar 14, 2023 19:01:48 GMT -5
my new switch yard with magnetic track and MTL rolling stock with magna couplers add needed interest to my layout. I want to thank everyone on this forum for their input and thoughtfulness. Again, I want to thank Frank for helping to resolve this issue. Brad Boyer Are you referring to the Microtrains Delayed Uncoupler? I just bought a package to try out. I'm curious on how well they perform? I'm trying to convert from Marklin track and have used the Marklin uncouplers. They work very well.
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