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Post by louiespud on Apr 25, 2022 17:53:45 GMT -5
Hello,
I'm new to DCC and am trying to convert my UP fleet to DCC, I've run into an issue with the AZL SD70M.
I've tried to install the DZ123Z0 and TCS 1550 AZL4 decoders into the SD70M - 61004 and the motor tabs are too wide to fit into the frame -- they sit on top of the frame halves. Has anyone had any success with these decoders or will something else work?
While on the topic of decoders. I've installed a mixture of DZ123Z0 and AZL4 decoders into several engines and the DS123Z0 will only run at most at half throttle. Once I get past 50% throttle then there is no difference in speed. The AZL4 increases speed through the whole throttle range. I've swapped the decoders back and forth in several locos with the same result.
My DCC system is a Digitrax Evolution Express advanced.
Thanks
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Post by tjdreams on Apr 25, 2022 19:47:27 GMT -5
The SD70M is a older design the drop in decoders will not fit. there are solder pads on the orignal board that allow you to hardwire in a decoder like the TCS Z2 Follow the instructions for the GP7 tcsdcc.com/installation/z-scale/1692 the It sounds like you have the DZ123ZO Decoder set to Switching mode. Try hitting function F6 or change CV54 to "000" to get it out of switching mode. |
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Post by louiespud on Apr 25, 2022 21:10:08 GMT -5
The SD70M is a older design the drop in decoders will not fit. there are solder pads on the orignal board that allow you to hardwire in a decoder like the TCS Z2 Follow the instructions for the GP7 tcsdcc.com/installation/z-scale/1692 the It sounds like you have the DZ123ZO Decoder set to Switching mode. Try hitting function F6 or change CV54 to "000" to get it out of switching mode. Thank You. I was wondering if they were old models. The jewel cases are different and come with a cardboard jacket. I'll give the TCS Z2 a shot. I set CV54 to zero and it now runs correctly. I looked at the CV value before changing it and it showed a value of 64. Not sure what that means or how it got there. Now I'll go through all of my dz123z0 equipped locos and turn switching off. Thanks again for you help and quick response. |
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Post by BAZman on Apr 26, 2022 15:29:04 GMT -5
True about older installs.
But of near 100 out-of-package have I never run into decoder do this. Strange.
I have encountered locos that will eventually ’top out’ but this due to overall friction that the motor can no longer provide. *THIS FORCES THE ‘BEMF’ Load Compensation’ to deliver FULL power. This is more noticeable in a DCC loco, than an analog motor as the voltage delivered to the track is generally 3 to 5 V higher than a normal DC power pack and leading to high potential of motor burnout! (Ask a Service person to tell you how many).
So if the decoder is basically dropped-in to test run before Programming and has this phenomenon, put the DC Board back in to double-check that it’s not having problems with 89 or 10 V DC. You can also emulate this by turning the back EMF off in the DigiTrax decoder (although the CVs for that claim to disable actually do not). I have oscilloscope traces showing that it very obviously starts increasing pulse-period quickly when some load is placed on a locomotive whereas if it was turned off it would not change the wave pattern.
Those early Ajin runs had two different motor linkages. The first motor linkage was slightly offset from the motor and used a universal joint drive but the worm gear was held with two plastic squares on either side of round bearing ball, and was crushed somewhat when the frame is tightened causing friction on the small bearing ball. The plastic was not flat square on the sides so it made it fit tight when squeezed. You can simply just file/sand down the sides to make it square on all sides and all the dimensions and put it back together and they run super. The second run of those locomotives used a flexible tube and took out the bearing that was at the beginning of the truck and therefore had a lot of slop at that end but seem to run fine. The later generations from Sanda-kan had a different mechanism.
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Post by louiez on May 3, 2022 17:54:56 GMT -5
Thanks for all of the information!
Another question, does anyone know what size LED is used for the headlight? I burned it out playing around with a 9V battery. Not only did I do it on one loco but in trying to figure out what I did, I burned out the light on another loco ( saw that one pop[). Now I know not to put 9V to the led solder pads. The loco still runs fine except for the headlight. These are the LEDs that are at the end of two black wires which are soldered to the PCB. The PCB is black with white lettering on it.
Thanks
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