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Post by BAZman on Jan 14, 2021 18:38:01 GMT -5
I have all of the possible DCC decoders to put into the spaces on the RS/RSD chassis. The Chassis is 6.9mm wide and the shell is the 'same so no sloppy areas on the side but that is not necessary. The DC Motor/Lightboard is 5.3mm wide, leaving 1.6mm total or o.8mm each side of the board. Most all Decoder wire is o.8-o.6 (for Digitrax and TCS, respectively) and o.54-o.50 for European Decoders. This allows the Decoder under the board to freely route to the needed locations for Track Power from the frame, Motor contacts and the Front and Rear LEDs (plus the Blue + wire). There are 2 Decoder pockets that are both 12.7mm long but the one at the rear is shallow at 2.2mm while the front is 2.92 deep. Since most all of the Decoders are 2.2 or higher, the Decoder needs to go in the front pocket. The DC Motor and Light board can be salvaged so allow easy Motor and Frame power pickups. The RS/RSD series uses a unique PC board so you cannot use the prior drop-in Decoders (Digitrax DZ123Z and TCS-DCC's AZL4 [1550]. The possible decoders narrow enough (the critical dimension) and short enough are: Digitrax DZ126T AZL Z2 [1296] ESU's LokPilot 5 Micro [59820] Doehler & Haass (Döhler & Häß) PD05A The latter is dang dong smaller, by far. Below are: DZ126T - Z2 - LokPilot 5 u - PD05a-3
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Post by BAZman on Jan 14, 2021 18:38:50 GMT -5
Here are some basic install info: Getting the shell off:
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Post by BAZman on Jan 14, 2021 18:59:18 GMT -5
Taking the DC Motor/Light Board off and prep for conversion to DCC: The PC board is screwed with M1x2 mm screws. You will need a M1.5 or 0000 screwdriver. They are no as common as a M1.5 or 000 screwdriver. Several of the screws have been stripped out, making it harder. Either manufacturing used a larger driver or overtightened (report of one screw head fell out with shell removal leaving the threaded part in the hole. Plenty of power pickup , even with just 2 screws. You can find these small M1x2 (better is M1x2.5) on Amazon, eBay, etc. They are common with Eyeglass repair. A "Flat head" was used but most screws will be "Wafer head" or "Countersunk Flathead". All will work.
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Post by BAZman on Jan 14, 2021 19:09:58 GMT -5
The board needs to be prepared for DCC. In the above post, you can see the difference. - The 2 'blue-ish striped "Coils" used for motor noise (Government Radio Interference requirements) are just clipped off. They do NOT go through the PC board although circuit traces do.
- The C3 Capacitor also used for filtering - gone too.
- Depending on the Decoder, the 2 Diodes (the larger black squares) have to go too. These are used for track power feed to the LED's, both directions. Some Decoders do not supply the Blue wire, which is essentially the same. More on this later.
Here is a closer look:
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Post by BAZman on Jan 14, 2021 19:21:49 GMT -5
Depending on the Decoder, they will go in the Front, where the deeper pocket is. In general, many of the Decoders have one side where none of the components are metal. Either way, some insulation tape (even paper) can help. Mind the front and back 'walls' of the pocket too. These are more closely related to the wiring. AND, between the Decoder and Motor/Light board. The Chassis is the same width as the shell so nothing can be wider than that. However, the light board is narrower (by o.8mm each side) so Decoder wires can come up and over to the top of the Motor/Lightboard where the Frame power, Motor and Rear (yellow) LED connections are. Start by placing the decoder in an thinking about the Polarity of the Track (Red on Right -> Forward) and Orange for the Motor + (on the Right also). Here is a starting example of a TCS Z2: This and the Digitrax DZ126T are both 'tight', a bit too long, so a snug fit. The European Decoder have more room. (notice that it would have been PERFECT but the center-most of the pocket (the frame center 'bulge' inward ! Argh! IF YOU ARE THINKING about Filing away some of the area, take the chassis apart so you don't knick the brass worm gear so it chews into the plastic gears, filings in the grease and any more stress you can put on the trucks.
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Post by BAZman on Jan 14, 2021 19:33:10 GMT -5
This shows how I routed the Decoder wires where they go. I used a M1x3 as a post, to help routing to help cut the length. The wires will be tack-glued to the PC board, away from the screw as there really is no space above the PC board and can keep the shell from sitting all the way down.
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Post by BAZman on Jan 14, 2021 19:37:49 GMT -5
This is what the first model looked like. I made some small changes for the second one but I'll likely change the all to a newer Decoder. More later about the LED's as they are now brighter due to ~12 Volts Versus 3-9 Volts.
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Post by BAZman on Jan 15, 2021 17:04:31 GMT -5
Now I installed the smallest decoder: Doehler & Haass PD05A (thats a 'zero'. -3 is wired, -0 no wires (use yours) Info:
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Post by BAZman on Jan 15, 2021 17:05:41 GMT -5
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Post by BAZman on Jan 15, 2021 17:06:24 GMT -5
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Post by BAZman on Jan 15, 2021 17:07:32 GMT -5
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Post by BAZman on Jan 15, 2021 17:08:41 GMT -5
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