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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2020 0:10:48 GMT -5
That's one reason why I don't want buildings in lasercut ...
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Post by husafreak on Dec 10, 2020 1:25:52 GMT -5
What is the reason? Your hands are dirty?
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Post by ztrack on Dec 10, 2020 8:55:34 GMT -5
I wouldn't avoid laser cut buildings. They are more detailed than any injection product I have seen for Z scale! The quality, detail and textures are unbelievable. We are committing to try and release three new kits a year. The US market really has a void of structures, and these type of kits will help us fill the gaps. Archistories is a master at design and development. Their work is unbelievable. I recommend trying one out for yourself. I think you will see what we are saying.
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Post by smr on Dec 10, 2020 9:52:06 GMT -5
I wouldn't avoid laser cut buildings. They are more detailed than any injection product I have seen for Z scale! The quality, detail and textures are unbelievable. We are committing to try and release three new kits a year. The US market really has a void of structures, and these type of kits will help us fill the gaps. Archistories is a master at design and development. Their work is unbelievable. I recommend trying one out for yourself. I think you will see what we are saying. I can only second that what Rob was saying. We are no more using injection products! This bridge is e.g. from Archistories. Compare that with injection products......... Best, Sven
.... in Z 140cm long, two tracks,......
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Post by altunha on Dec 10, 2020 9:54:44 GMT -5
good tip, thanks
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2020 10:31:03 GMT -5
Yes, they are very detailled, but are they durable ? Three years ago I assembled a station by Archistories and I noticed that, as Neverland said, it was VERY sensitive to "fingerprints" every time I wanted to go on with working, it is absolutely necessary to varnish such models but You can do this only with finished models, not while they are "under construction", and it's this time when "accidents" can happen (so You must wear gloves). Finally I took stations by Faller, modified them with 3D-prints (platforms with stairs), and am now satisfied with the results. For my houses I used Faller and Kibri ("customized" with milled boardings for some of them) and 3D-prints by "Charlie", Walt and Stony Smith. The only Lasercuts that I have are the GC-Laser billboards, and I painted them completely flat black with Tamiya.
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Post by zscalehobo on Dec 10, 2020 16:01:39 GMT -5
I see this "durability" question brought up again and again. It's really puzzling. If you want a kit that's going to sit outdoors and be exposed to all the seasonal elements, then yeah, go with plastic. But if you want a model that is a true work of art and looks very realistic, you have to go with Archistories. Comparing laser-cut to laser-cut - I've seen some people's experiences with Sankei or even some of the not so good flimsy Marklin releases lead them to throwing the baby out with the bathwater. Archistories are really unique. Extra interior support make the kits really strong. The other makers can have flimsy or non-rigid pieces when done ... THOSE are the ones I would worry about for longevity. Not an Archistories kit - they are quite strong. But again - leaving your layout outside - sure - you might have some issues. If you cannot work clean during construction, then that's another issue. Keeping your hands clean and oil free is helpful for Covid - it also goes a long way in making a perfect Archistories structure. Take your time, take a deep breath, relax, build. It's a great process once you get the hang of it. Frank Drees made an entire "building process tips" that I've loosely translated. Read about it here: zscalehobo.com/archistories/montage.htmlOne kit and done? Wow. too bad for you - you're missing out on a great line! Meanwhile, I'm anxiously awaiting their next releases and especially Rob's USA versions!
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Post by modelwarships on Dec 10, 2020 22:25:29 GMT -5
I have limited experience with Archistories kits, but I am impressed not only with their detail, but the structural engineering that goes into them.
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Post by husafreak on Dec 12, 2020 0:28:57 GMT -5
Thanks for the link to Frank Drees building tips. My one big question solved: "For the processing of our accompanying window film we recommend using UHU Kraft since this adhesive excellently adheres to the film" Now I have to get a bottle of this glue, hopefully it is available here in the USA. I have been very happy with the "Ponal" brand glue I got from you Frank for general construction, as stated before, thinned with water and applied sparingly is is an almost instant bond. It's really fun to build without having to wait. I admit to building these kits purely for pleasure!
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Post by husafreak on Dec 12, 2020 0:38:44 GMT -5
Hmmm, is UHU Kraft sold under another name in the US? Or does anyone here know of a supplier? I checked Amazon and Ebay and Ebay has it, but imported at approximately $45 a 125g tube! I do use "UHU POR" for other projects (model airplanes built from foam and plastic) which is a contact cement, expended polystyrene, sticky, stringy, and smells terrible, but I do not know if this is the same stuff.
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Post by zscalehobo on Dec 13, 2020 19:51:35 GMT -5
I will be sourcing a bunch of UHU glue that will hopefully minimize all the gnashing of teeth regarding window films. I don't see similar glues here in the USA after spending entirely too much time looking.
Aside: Goldtree Station & Cuesta Station both have inset windows that allow for easier window film installation off the structure.
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Post by Rob Albritton on Dec 13, 2020 21:19:13 GMT -5
I've been using UHU All Purpose Adhesive for the windows, and sections of the cardstock (I use slightly diluted White Glue in a squeeze bottle for most cardstock connections) with no problems. UHU on amazon is $8 with prime shipping free. Links: UHU on Amazon apply with a toothpick if you need precision work, but work quickly as it gets tacky and starts to hold fairly fast Glue bottles on Amazon (for white glue - do not put the UHU in these!!!)
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Post by Rob Albritton on Dec 14, 2020 10:33:15 GMT -5
I'm working on a scene today and realized that I have used just about every type of structure that I know of: Injected Plastic, CNC Plastic, Paper / cardstock (from 3 different companies, and two that I made myself with a k40 laser cutter) and SLA 3d printed resin. Take a look. I think they all work together quite well. I actually have grown to prefer cardstock models over plastic. They just look better. In fact, I'm beginning to think that plastic is my least favorite material for structures!
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Post by Commodore on Dec 14, 2020 14:13:38 GMT -5
I'm working on a scene today and realized that I have used just about every type of structure that I know of: Injected Plastic, CNC Plastic, Paper / cardstock (from 3 different companies, and two that I made myself with a k40 laser cutter) and SLA 3d printed resin. Take a look. I think they all work together quite well. I actually have grown to prefer cardstock models over plastic. They just look better. In fact, I'm beginning to think that plastic is my least favorite material for structures! View Attachment Thanks, I gotta agree... Who makes the 4 story white building In the background? Like it!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 14, 2020 16:23:14 GMT -5
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