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Post by Edward on Apr 18, 2024 4:58:22 GMT -5
Has anyone taken apart a Bi/Tri Level Autorack?
Is there a trick to it? I have tried a few techniques, but I ultimately feel like I am about to bust the roof apart…
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Post by dazed on Apr 18, 2024 10:46:43 GMT -5
Good question. I've never taken the roof off. I do know that the entire side panel (the silver/gray anti-vandal panels and vertical rack-body-color supports) is a single etched metal piece attached with doublesided tape. Had one fall off.
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Post by dazed on Apr 18, 2024 11:02:22 GMT -5
Well, curiosity got the best of me...
I tried taking the roof off of the car that lost its side panel.
You're right...if you're not careful, you'll bust the roof apart. I broke mine clean in half. Thankfully, it is at one of the seams and the break is nice and clean and straight. So probably a no(t much) harm, no foul type of thing. (EDIT: not quite as clean as I thought on one side, but I still think it's fixable)
So, the edges are easy to pry up but you'll notice an oddly significant resistance. The reason for this is there are two center-line vertical posts, roughly at the 1/3 and 2/3 points lengthwise. The roofs are glued* to these posts, and I'm really not sure how you would get the roof off without breaking it. You might be able to pry up on side just enough to get something in to cut it, but it would be tricky at best.
I will try to snap (no pun intended) some pics when I get a minute.
*it is possible that this is a "press-fit" sort of situation, and possibly the paint adhered to the post. (it's a male-female thing, with the male being the post coming up from the car body and the female being the roof post) But it very much looks like there is CA glue residue at the connection point.
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Post by dazed on Apr 18, 2024 11:50:09 GMT -5
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Post by dazed on Apr 18, 2024 11:51:30 GMT -5
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Post by dazed on Apr 18, 2024 12:49:07 GMT -5
So thinking about the roof removal...
-I've read people talking about trying to cleanly separate items affixed with CA (if that's even what this is) and one suggestion that often comes up is to put the item in the freezer and that will often cause the CA joint to pop apart.
-[Deleted second idea...doesn't seem feasible after all, and I think I found a good solution, see below.]
Well, I can't seem to come up with a good idea. Hopefully someone else has figured it out?
The other thing is, probably can get a roof 3D printed so it's less of an issue if it happens. Or maybe AZL World Headquarters has some lying around.
I was hoping the roofs would come off, too...for weathering and/or repainting purposes.
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Post by Edward on Apr 18, 2024 14:26:40 GMT -5
Well, thank you for sacrificing one of your cars Doug. Yeah I am baffled at that design. I think I have an idea using two long flat wedges I have for bending etched parts, coming in slowly from both sides lifting the entire roof as one section. I’ll also try to freeze the car first.
I have about 12 of these I plan on repainting, so I need to figure out something!
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Post by Edward on Apr 18, 2024 14:29:37 GMT -5
The other thing is, probably can get a roof 3D printed so it's less of an issue if it happens. Or maybe AZL World Headquarters has some lying around. New roofs would be nice… along with the “added protection ends”. Maybe some different end door designs as well while we are at it! 💡 |
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Post by dazed on Apr 18, 2024 14:43:44 GMT -5
Well, duh...
I think I have an idea...
1. Pull off the side panel.
2. Cut (drill?) out a hole where the posts are, big enough for a zona saw blade.
3. Saw/cut the post.
4. The hole will be covered by the etched panel.
Sound reasonable?
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Post by Edward on Apr 18, 2024 14:47:34 GMT -5
That’s a fantastic idea! I have a long micro saw blade that should do just the trick. I’ll report back tonight!
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Post by dazed on Apr 18, 2024 14:52:39 GMT -5
Obviously, the new danger is damaging the etched panel when it comes off, so be careful. Mine just fell off so I'm not sure how that process is. Wide flat tools for sure.
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Post by cwrr on Apr 18, 2024 17:01:18 GMT -5
Ouch, good to know!  Ever seen the video of the autorack train crumpling the roofs and cars under that low train bridge? Now you have your prototype!  |
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Post by scalecalamity on Apr 18, 2024 18:13:15 GMT -5
Right. So, I use a precision flat head screwdriver and steam - yes, steam. I utilize steam in the same way I use it to straighten out Scenic Express SuperTrees, direct application. Holding the car at both the A-end and B-end, place the roof a few inches from the steam being discharged - this will help soften the factory adhesive and allow you to slowly pry up the roof, working from the outside ends first, then towards the 2 center roof support posts. I also recommend adding a single wrap of Super 88 vinyl electrical tape around the shaft of the screwdriver to help protect the car body and roof, as this is being used a leverage. I have done over 10+ autoracks this way and haven't broken one yet. Flip the car over and use a carbide grinding/sanding wheel to dremel down the bolster supports lowering the car to a more prototypical ride height, as they do sit a bit high. You can also add etched brass ladders and sill plates: wash, prime, spray. Drill and tap to body mount mtl true-scale couplers, or 905s.   |
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Post by scalecalamity on Apr 18, 2024 18:14:19 GMT -5
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Post by dazed on Apr 18, 2024 18:49:32 GMT -5
Interesting and Awesome! Wish I'd waited I guess....lol.
I wondered about using the TSC's. Great stuff...thanks for sharing!
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