Questions I would like advice, opinions, answers too

Zap canopy glue... high tack and dries fast and clear, plus Zap-a-gap medium CA with zip-kicker. These two handle it all.
Highly recommend Rail-Zip 2 for track maintenance. Just a tiny drop on each rail about every 3-5 feet and let trains run over it; easy! No-ox is not worth the trouble, IMHO. I tried it in N Scale and it works, but it's more difficult to apply than Rail-Zip.

I tested it thoroughly. It depends....

My layout had long sections of 2% climbs. I tested it in sections so I could see the difference, and it was done over 3 months so I could determine the long-term effects.

On flat tracks, No Ox was somewhat useful. I say somewhat because it really did no better or worse than my standard way of cleaning tracks: just wiping them down with small squares of white T-Shirt material. (sometimes you need to put moderate pressure on the tracks and keep wiping until you can't see any more green/black on the white t-shirt)

On tracks where the trains were climbing, No Ox did create some wheel slippage and there was a loss of traction. This was not a problem with AZL locos with traction tires, but did cause problems for Marklin and MTL.

Conclusion:
No Ox did help somewhat on level tracks, but in my case with so many changes in track elevation, I decided to NOT apply No Ox to the remainder of the rails (and I removed it from the 2% ramp tracks)

My best suggestion is to not only clean your rails, but more importantly: clean your WHEELS - especially on locomotives. It is amazing how most locomotives will collect a full tire worth of dirt on their wheels over the course of just a few hours of operation. This is very detrimental to electrical pick up and really destroys operational reliability.

Good luck!

No OX Some claim it works others say it doesn't. I tried it and don't feal the time putting it on and cleaning it off rubbing it in or the resulting loss of traction was worth the effort.

For glue I've used so many its hard to keep track CA glues the different brands didn't make much difference Thick was Thick Thin was Thin, Fast set was fast and slow was slow. For card stock kits i like the Noch 61104 Laser cut Adhesive, for scenery i like the Woodland Scenics Products, I've also used Weldwood Contact Cement, Dap construction adhesives, Foam glues from Hotwire foam factory, Plain old Elmer's glue, Titebond wood glues, Gorilla glues/ 5 minute epoxy, And UV cure glues.
It really depends on what what the item is made of paper, plastic, foam's, card stock, wood, resin, brass, aluminum, white metal, stainless steel, ect: and what I'm attaching it to.

To say "Your results may vary" sounds like a cop out, but when it comes to NO-OX-ID A-SPECIAL, I think this is very true. I wrote a short articles on this a few years back using a Rokuhan Shorty chassis:

Regarding glue. After a lifetime of model aircraft building one of my favorite things about model train scenery is that I don't need to use cycroanylate (SP?) adhesives. At least where card and paper buildings are concerned! Metal is another story, there it and accelerators are used. I am also enamored with European products, soooo. I like white glues like "Ponal Express" and "Holzleim Express" they are quick drying and do not leave a shiny residue. I usually put a drop on cardboard and apply with brushes dipped in water to thin the glue to my desired consistency. I just clean the brushes with water when I am done. I also used Elmers glue pen washable (it is orange) the same way but it is shiny so I use that primarily to attach windows and internal stuff. I really like Faller Expert Lasercut for its application needle and quick drying time but it dries shiny so I don't like to use it anywhere it might be seen, like on the exterior. Careful application and removing any excess with a toothpick can mitigate this. A nice thing about it is it remains a bit flexible. Another glue that remains flexible and can be relied upon to stick to any material I know of is UHU POR. It is messy and stringy but for foam or plastic it really sticks! It is unique in that it can be melted with lighter fluid if you need a "do over". I'll have to try Canopy Glue one of these days, as someone posted earlier, I never thought of it because when used for canopies it takes forever to dry, LOL.

Track cleaning threads are a dime a dozen. I'll just say I have tried many different things, anything that remains on the track has not worked for me. Especially with DCC locos. I just use a small square of T-shirt material to rub the track. If I moisten it with denatured alcohol to help lift the grime then I wait awhile to run my trains or make sure to wipe again with dry cloth. And that was the first way I was told to do it so yeah, I wasted some time and energy trying other things. I don't go for wheel cleaning until a loco asks for it but obviously it is just as important, though a lot more work. If I was at a show it would be on the to-do list for any loco I intended to run.

Thank You All for the answers, 

Of your Track cleaning and the glue preferences.  

I would like to politely request that we NOT have one catch-all thread....this is what the entire forum is for.  "Questions I would like advice, opinions, answers to[o]" could be the description of this entire category.  You're basically asking everyone to cram everything into one thread, which in my experience is not ideal.

This topic should be three separate topics asking the respective questions.  Otherwise, you can't tell when this thread is updated what is actually being discussed.   I know you probably meant well, but I've belonged to various forums over the years and this just isn't how things should work.   Good individual topics with appropriate subject lines are important.

Just my two cents.