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Post by neverland on Nov 24, 2021 9:17:54 GMT -5
Ballast? Phewy!! Cork roadbed looks realistic enough in Z & since Zers are constantly cleaning tracks, those durn rocks just get in the way.
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Post by Commodore on Nov 24, 2021 9:48:59 GMT -5
Ballast? Phewy!! Cork roadbed looks realistic enough in Z & since Zers are constantly cleaning tracks, those durn rocks just get in the way. I knew you were on the ball! I don’t care how small the rocks are that you use… they are TOO BIG for Z Scale. Cork can look just like roadbed in Z scale. PLUS… cork roadbed is WAY quieter than plastic.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 24, 2021 11:14:31 GMT -5
About ballast : since I used Rokuhan tracks, I had only to ballast the sides of the plattfom. For this pupose I used Heki's grey "Streumaterial" 3308/3316, it's grey sawdust, but since the grains were too large (they are for HO), I "reduced" their size 50 seconds in a (dedicated) coffee grinder, painted the wood (poplar) first with Tamiya XF23 (light blue, it's approximately the same colour as the Rokuhan ballast, I used it for the screws, too) and ballasted using white vinyllic glue. Take care not to ballast too near from the turnout levers, at these places I left the paint un-ballasted. And here is the final result :
Tunnel portal by DeBen LLC. Notice the black from the exhaust ... The green grains on the track must still be removed with a car vacuum cleaner ...
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Post by stevew on Nov 24, 2021 16:29:28 GMT -5
That Rokuhan track looks great! I have some Rokuhan on it's way to me to compare to MTL track. Also drawing up plans to see if I need the variety of Rokuhan or not. This first layout will be a bit of a test bed while I get myself back in the swing of things. I will plan on using regular track such as Atlas or Marklin on the 2nd layout, and I'm pretty sure I'll skip ballasting.
Have several shipment on the way to me, one of which includes an SW1500. Very excited!
Thanks again for all the advice.
Steve W
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Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2021 2:34:28 GMT -5
Finally I noticed that for the turnouts my power supply of 9V 6A together with capacitors of 2200 uF is not enough : sometimes some turnouts don't go to their "end" position, especially when the switch is in the position where the capacitor gets charged. So I will first try to put a "buffer" capacitor of 33 mF and if this is not enough use a 12 V supply ; I noticed that all schematics use 10 to 12 V, so I hope that 12 V could be adequate ?
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Post by BAZman on Dec 1, 2021 16:12:42 GMT -5
Since it was designed with 12v, yes. It won’t be the voltage (winding insulation much greater), its the current+time.
The Rokuhan Controller says 10 volts on it but their wallwart is 12 volts and the internal 8xAA is 12 volts.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2021 17:18:59 GMT -5
Waiting for delivery of my buffer capacitor and switching power supply (from Germany). Maybe I will test capcitors 1000 to 1500 uF. Presently mounted 2200uF like the Kato switch.
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Post by stevew on Dec 1, 2021 18:37:59 GMT -5
Interesting, but for me scary. I know enough about electronics to be somewhat dangerous!
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Post by husafreak on Dec 8, 2021 22:05:15 GMT -5
Going back to the "where did I read that?" realm, there has been some discussion about operating Rokuhan turnouts with other than Rokuhan switches, no pun intended, for some it is easy and for others anything but.
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Post by stevew on Dec 17, 2021 10:26:47 GMT -5
Hi all, just a quick update: I am very impressed with the quality and selection of Rokuhan track and have decided to use it on my planned layout. I've placed a number of orders over the last month or so and am very much looking forward to getting started on my SP based layout. Now comes the next fun bit...deciding on a track plan! I'm going to start with something small, around 2x5 or so. The plan is to use this layout as a test bed of sorts while planning a second, larger layout.
It has been great getting back into Z, it has totally reinvigorated my interest in model railroading!
Steve W
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Post by husafreak on Dec 17, 2021 11:44:41 GMT -5
2x5 sounds pretty good for a small layout, at least 2' is wide enough for a 270mm curve (but not much extra). 5' also, my oval "play" track is 2x4 and I wish it was longer as I cannot fit 660mm (3x220mm or 6x110mm) of Rokuhan track between the aforementioned 270mm curves. I think those big curves are the straightest path to a well running and realistic layout in Z. Tight curves are fine with small engines and trains but why limit yourself right from the start... Rokuhan's website has some track plans to help you see ways of fitting the track in, they are not freeform though.
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Post by husafreak on Dec 17, 2021 11:50:17 GMT -5
Have you seen the Z Scale T-Trak modules? Modules are a whole other discussion covered at length elsewhere. The T-Track modules are small.
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Post by stevew on Dec 17, 2021 12:25:53 GMT -5
2x5 sounds pretty good for a small layout, at least 2' is wide enough for a 270mm curve (but not much extra). 5' also, my oval "play" track is 2x4 and I wish it was longer as I cannot fit 660mm (3x220mm or 6x110mm) of Rokuhan track between the aforementioned 270mm curves. I think those big curves are the straightest path to a well running and realistic layout in Z. Tight curves are fine with small engines and trains but why limit yourself right from the start... Rokuhan's website has some track plans to help you see ways of fitting the track in, they are not freeform though. Thanks for the thoughts. I do like the idea of 270mm curves, but for this first layout I will likely go with 220mm. For the second, larger layout I will definitely go with large radii. I've been putting some ideas together in RailModeller, which has the Rokuhan track library. I'll share a few of my ideas soon. Steve W
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Post by stevew on Dec 17, 2021 15:41:51 GMT -5
Have you seen the Z Scale T-Trak modules? Modules are a whole other discussion covered at length elsewhere. The T-Track modules are small. Thanks, I should look into the T-Trak Z modules. I recall the layout that was set up for the NMRA convention in Salt Lake City in 2019, very impressive!
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Post by markm on Dec 17, 2021 17:19:56 GMT -5
Since you are using this layout as a test bed, there are a couple of things you might want to try.
Consider the super elevated curves. They don't work everywhere but look good on a long broad curve. I've paired them with a one size larger flat curve and IMHO makes for a very realistic curve. I like using a diluted India ink wash on the roadbed. It adds definition to the gravel and knocks down the plastic sheen.
I consider a 2-foot depth to be a little tight considering all their track options we haven't had before. Although for a test bed it should be adequate.
Mark
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