glueing, not soldering ???

Just for the heck of it I looked at some videos and some reviews over at Amazon. It does seem to work but many people say they'll leave it overnight to fully dry and in order to make it more permanent, then they'll add a bit of CA or epoxy on top of it once dry to really secure the connection.

I think if you're working in very specialized applications it could be useful, but for track I think I'd suggest lots of practice with a fine chisel tip on a conventional iron for a fast, strong and reliable bond. Once feeders are in place, you really don't want to be second guessing them.

John

Soldering is a skill that you should learn to do things right. It seems scary at first, yes,, but its really not that bad once you do it a time or two.

Practice joining some old pieces of wire together on your workspace. Just practice and see what works for you. Then your skills and confidence will be high when you work on your layout.

Twist some wires together. Heat them up with the iron, then flow some solder into the hot part near the iron tip. Experiment with different techniques. You will be working on old wire scraps so there is nothing to mess up or worry about.

5 minutes of practice and you will be a pro.

Got a link?

I would learn to solder, rather than 'trust' a glued-on wire.

First, if you are trying to find overkill 18 gauge wire, even the smaller 20, the voltage drop at 1 amp is ~.8% at 10'.
Most all of us use 22 or even smaller for these o.1 A motors. If your running DCC, with a 5 Amp (somewhat the norm), the 22 gauge wire is rated at 5 Amps, all day (and the DCC short would only be a 5 Amp surge for <1/2 second before it shuts down to 0)

Amazon has all gauges, in multi color (helps when wiring Outer rail (typicall Red), Black (Inner), other colors like Orange for second inside Outer rail, Blur for Spurs, etc. Just make sure it says 'Tinned' and the picture shows silver not copper color.
Search: 22 Gauge Wire Solid Core Hookup Wires - Pre-Tinned or Amazon's ASIN B088KQFHV7

On with your soldering issues. 2 probable points: oxidized rail and/or too low of a temperature.

• For the rail, get a small tip brass or fiberglass brush to clean that spot. Even a #2 pencil erasure does some impact. Or high number grit sandpaper (like 600-1000 and usually black). Fold it over so it like a closed envelope so you can sand that horizontal surface under the rail head/above the ties.
• As for the solder, 60/40 or more common 67/34 or even 'Lead-free' 95/2 will melt fast with a 25 watt plug-in soldering iron. this will be about >700F or >380C. However, oxidation of the tip (dull and blackish) can make a thermal barrier. When you see the tip only melt solder in one spot/area, it way over time to clean the tip ! The poorman, er, Poorperson's way is a wet sponge or paper towel wipe it off. This is hard on the tip's plating tho. The better way is a brass (gold color) Tip Cleaner (search solder iron tip cleaner). This is the safe way to periodically clean the tip. Your tip should be somewhat large, not super prick your skin, like a cheap ball point pen or so, at least 1mm.

Solder: o.025" - o.031 size is good, with Flux core. You need flux to help clean the rail and while you are soldering. The solder itself will have all you need, if the rail is clean. You can use a Flux pen (TechSpray, Kester, etc.)

Temperature. If the tip will reliably melt the solder near-instantly, you are ready. Try to bend the wire so that it is already in good contact the the rail (this relieves you a third hand or chasing the wired into place with the iron). Place tip mostly side ways, on the rail (it needs more time to heat up than that tiny wire), and place the solder in the gap so it quickly melts and carries more heat to the rail. This should take 1-3 seconds IF the rail is clean AND the solder melted quickly without force.