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Post by neverland on Sept 19, 2020 8:09:45 GMT -5
I finally got around to assembling my Micro Structure KC Hardware and had the walls assembled, painted and looking good (if I do say so). As I began to set the roof into place, 3 of the wall seams just snapped! 😡
Now I’ve built enough Miller kits to know you can’t bend the scored sections but twice before running the risk of breaking them. My walls had not been over-flexed and were supported in a jig until roof installation. The only thing I can figure out is metal fatigue.
After many expletives, a friend offered to try soldering the walls back together with thin strips of brass wire. Don’t know if that will work but worth a try considering the hours Ivr put into this model.
Otherwise, anyone building a hurricane or tornado disaster is welcome to it! Lol
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Post by zscalehobo on Sept 19, 2020 10:30:04 GMT -5
Can't these be super glued back together? Then put something behind (flat piece of metal sprue from the kit scraps) to fortify it.
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Post by neverland on Sept 19, 2020 11:38:25 GMT -5
Maybe.... that’s plan A. 🤞🏻
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Post by tjdreams on Sept 19, 2020 13:15:20 GMT -5
I've soldered a few Micro Structures kits together. Clean the edges use flux lightly tin each piece, clamp together, If you want to reinforce the corner joint pre-heat a piece of 1/16 X 1/16 square stock place in corner and solder together.
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Post by zscalehobo on Sept 19, 2020 13:24:02 GMT -5
I've soldered a few Micro Structures kits together. Clean the edges use flux lightly tin each piece, clamp together... She's talking about large surfaces as far as I read ... Are you talking about large areas or small parts? If big surfaces ... What kind of heat setting (wattage and/or temp) and iron tip are you using David? |
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Post by tjdreams on Sept 19, 2020 15:45:07 GMT -5
I fixing a similar situation for a friend, the walls of a Miller Engineering N scale Savings & Loan kit.
I used my Hakko FX-951 soldering setup with a T15-KF angled knife edge tip set to 800* (not what the tip was made for but the angled chisel like edge worked well to reach inside from the bottom and put the heat where it was needed) By first tinning the parts then clamped them in place with a Coffman Long Right Angle clamp. Then I cut a piece of 1/16 square brass stock to fit in the corner, Holding it with a pair of long needle nose pliers I heated it with a small butane torch then while still good and hot I dropped it in place then used the soldering iron sliding it up and down the joint switching sides of the 1/16 square stock going back and forth until both the 1/16 stock and walls were hot enough to soften the solder where it was pre tinned. Remove the hear and let it cool Joint successfully repaired.
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Post by neverland on Sept 19, 2020 15:45:18 GMT -5
I've soldered a few Micro Structures kits together. Clean the edges use flux lightly tin each piece, clamp together... She's talking about large surfaces as far as I read ... Are you talking about large areas or small parts? If big surfaces ... What kind of heat setting (wattage and/or temp) and iron tip are you using David? One thought was to cut thin strips of the leftover brass frame and use them to reinforce the inside corners when soldering. David, did the paint bubble up from the heat or was the N kit as yet unpainted? Deb |
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Post by tjdreams on Sept 19, 2020 19:03:46 GMT -5
It was painted and yes it bubbled the paint a little in one spot where I got it too hot. But the paint was already damaged so it needed to be stripped and repainted anyway. If its already painted you could try just tacking it together in a few places using a very low melting temperature paste solder.
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