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Post by Deleted on Mar 30, 2018 22:43:26 GMT -5
This does NOT apply to "long" sections (440 mm) where some screws are "in the ties". With other "normal" sections, with the screws in the "ballast", I use Tamiya XF-23 ( "light blue" , thanks to my local store who found the colour which fits the ballast the best way) ; the screws are almost no more visible at 1', at least for the colour ; the relief is still visible, but many other things are visible with Rokuhan ... In the past, in the 60's with Märklin's HO "M"-track, nobody was bothered by those details, I had such a layout, I was happy and everybody found it fine  . |
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Post by Commodore on Mar 31, 2018 5:10:18 GMT -5
The Tamiya XF-23 "light blue" sounds good
Thanks for the tip. To attach track, I've been inserting extra sections of the track with the removable plug for track power. I'd put the screws in ...then can cover them with the plastic insert.
I'm buying the paint. That is a good tip!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 31, 2018 14:16:48 GMT -5
The system with the screws under the removable "cover" has two disadvantages :
1) It doesn't work with curved or too short straight tracks, which don't have a possibility for power connection..
2) And when possible, each track is only fixed at one point and could "rotate" ; in worst case, with several successive tracks, this could lead to "zigzag".
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Post by BAZman on Mar 31, 2018 15:45:06 GMT -5
Why not try a slight countersink, then flat-head #2 or smaller screws? You can get small flat-heads from RC car sites.
After ballasting, I would expect it to be improbable to find.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 31, 2018 23:10:49 GMT -5
I don't put any supplementary ballast on Rokuhan tracks ...
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Post by Commodore on Apr 1, 2018 10:02:47 GMT -5
I don't put any supplementary ballast on Rokuhan tracks ... You DID say the relief was still visible. I don't think BAZman was telling you to change your ways. LOL I like the paint idea you had. I like his idea, plus yours... Happy Easter! |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2018 0:31:03 GMT -5
Speaking of countersink : the upper horizontal part of the roadbed is only about 1 mm thick, including the ties, see at the "square holes" ; this is about the overall "height" of the head. If You want to get a "flat" surface with the ballast itself, You will have to drill at least until the reinforcement cylinder (perhaps elasticity of the plastic will do the rest), I think this is not good for solidity. I used the same screws as sold by Märklin (but mine are made of brass plated steel, not blackened ... and a little more expensive), the head reaches slightly over the ties (in diameter), this cannot be avoided due to the screw's size. I think the only result which could be compatible with reliabilty would be to reach the upper level of the ties, not of the ballast ; but without modification the upper surface of the screw, when tightened, is not much over the tie's one ( ~ 0.3 mm ). And as I wrote some "details" are much more visible at 1 to 1.5' (for example, the junctions at the joiners) ; so I think I will leave everything as it is, only use the paint before tightening the screws : I made a "protection" with plasticard (a simple rectangle with a slot), so I am able to paint the underside of the head too, when the screws are partly fixed in the roadbed.
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Post by Commodore on Apr 3, 2018 16:09:47 GMT -5
Wymann.info is the website of ATW on this forum. Adrian reviews a hidden built-in attachment method of Rokuhan track.
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Post by zscalehobo on Apr 3, 2018 17:29:07 GMT -5
I think the link you intended to point to is here: "Securing Rokuhan Track" ... www.wymann.info/1to220/AccidentalModelling-002.htmlDepends on what you are "bolting" the track to. I find that the Marklin 8999 is inadequate for securing Rokuhan tracks to Noch foam and plastic layouts. The nails back right out over time - especially if shipping a finished layout. Noch uses such spikes to hold Rokuhan tracks in their finished layouts ... I take receipt of these layouts and remove every nail and change with a screw. About half arrive falling out of place! In the Wymann.info example, it appears to be wood he is fastening to. Rigid. So the 8999 rail spike will hold in that case. |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 3, 2018 17:58:32 GMT -5
I saw on a german forum a topic from a modeller who used 1 mm screws ... but he wrote that they can easily break ... Mine have exactly the same dimensions as Märklin's models, which are sold at ZScaleHobo too. And one can even see a video here (without painting). All the way, I began with this method and will finish with the same ... It is easy to unmount track parts and mount them again using the same holes for screws (in 6 mm poplar plywood) ; I did so with my first ramp because I did'nt solder the feeders before mounting the sections, I wanted to "try" first ; I think that in this case nails wouldn't hold anymore. In the future it would be if I have to replace a turnout, I hope I won't ever have to do this ... Bad memory from Arnold (and "Murphy's law" ), but in N I had only to replace the lateral magnetic "motor" system, here it would be the whole turnout beween other tracks. |
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