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Post by neverland on Oct 24, 2017 14:25:04 GMT -5
Now that I'm thoroughly smitten with Z, my 2' X 4' layout was a nice appetizer. Now I want something larger to run some longish consists.
I'd like to hear from y'all as to your ideal layout & size. One that's manageable & yet provides a variety of terrains & room to run.
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Post by dave on Oct 24, 2017 15:11:03 GMT -5
How much room do you have to work with?
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Post by neverland on Oct 24, 2017 15:18:19 GMT -5
How much room do you have to work with? 24" X 10' |
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Post by cwrr on Oct 24, 2017 15:40:33 GMT -5
Dang, you can have quite an impressive layout at that size!! I've always been fond of L-shape layouts that utilize two walls, and a stretched out "dogbone" style track profile. Lots of hills, treas and such to break up between the two lines. Mountains on one side, cityscape at the other end.
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Post by dazed on Oct 24, 2017 22:19:38 GMT -5
Depends on what you want to do. I would caution you to be careful about filling the room stem to stern. If you want to model heavy city/industrial and large yards, that would be a LOT of model railroad to maintain with all the turnouts. Then again, if you have friends that will join in for ops and assist with cleaning track and helping troubleshoot and fix problem spots then maybe that large layout is workable.
I am more interested in long straight single track sections with passing sidings so I would tend to probably use most of that space to do so. (and likely multiple decks.) But I would almost assuredly end up with less turnouts overall than most layouts 1/3 or 1/4 of the size. Wide open spaces, wide aisles, and lots of staging to host mainline trains.
When I was in N, I built sort of a "compromise" of the above that was 6x12, and I always said I thought that was an ideal size to avoid a maintenance headache while still having a nice bit of railroading packed in. Only thing I thought I'd do differently from that was simply a little more staging. So translating that to Z while accounting for aisle width would be something like a 5x10. Even if you doubled that to make an L-shape 10x15 you would still have plenty of room left inside your space for creature comforts like a small "crew lounge" and a work area.
Just some ideas...
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Post by neverland on Oct 25, 2017 2:17:13 GMT -5
Depends on what you want to do. I would caution you to be careful about filling the room stem to stern. If you want to model heavy city/industrial and large yards, that would be a LOT of model railroad to maintain with all the turnouts. Then again, if you have friends that will join in for ops and assist with cleaning track and helping troubleshoot and fix problem spots then maybe that large layout is workable. I am more interested in long straight single track sections with passing sidings so I would tend to probably use most of that space to do so. (and likely multiple decks.) But I would almost assuredly end up with less turnouts overall than most layouts 1/3 or 1/4 of the size. Wide open spaces, wide aisles, and lots of staging to host mainline trains. When I was in N, I built sort of a "compromise" of the above that was 6x12, and I always said I thought that was an ideal size to avoid a maintenance headache while still having a nice bit of railroading packed in. Only thing I thought I'd do differently from that was simply a little more staging. So translating that to Z while accounting for aisle width would be something like a 5x10. Even if you doubled that to make an L-shape 10x15 you would still have plenty of room left inside your space for creature comforts like a small "crew lounge" and a work area. Just some ideas... I think you overlooked my available space: it's 10 ft long but only 24 inches deep. Think closet but it's actually a room once intended to be a photography dark room. No windows & 2 doors at each end. |
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Post by dave on Oct 25, 2017 7:21:23 GMT -5
Neverland....I am not sure how much switching you want, but if I had 10' of length, I would try the new Atlas flex track and make some long, gentle, meandering curves and the widest curves as possible at each end. I know the turnouts haven't been released yet but I just feel that sectional track limits you on very gentle curves and you can make larger 180 degree turns at each end. I would also make a couple of long passing sidings to store trains. I would also make a double track mainline so you can run trains in both directions at once. I can't wait to see what plan you come up with.
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Post by dazed on Oct 25, 2017 7:30:58 GMT -5
I think you overlooked my available space: it's 10 ft long but only 24 inches deep. Think closet but it's actually a room once intended to be a photography dark room. No windows & 2 doors at each end. Oh, yes you're right. Sorry about that. I initially read the post on my phone and didn't notice the differing dimensions. Anyway, that's still a lot of space in Z. My current layout is roughly 2ft x 4-1/2ft so I know you have a lot of options in that space. Also, I built a layout in N that translates to almost your exact space in Z. It was roughly 34" x 160" which is very close to 24" x 120" in Z.  It's your classic dogbone with double-track Unitrack loop and small yard on the left side. It's built on 3" of foam (2" + 1" laminated together) and set atop bookcases. |
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Post by markm on Oct 25, 2017 8:13:40 GMT -5
I would suggest building a modular layout, something like the Zbendtrack: www.ztrackmagazine.com/z-bend-track-manual/This is what I'm doing. By modularizing the layout you can focus on building the town or the pass, rather than laying 200 feet of track. Start by building the two end modules and fill in as time permits. Another advantage is that people generally don't spend their entire lives in one home and the modular concept is easy to move. And if you have to down-size, just remove a module. Mark |
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Post by neverland on Oct 25, 2017 9:16:02 GMT -5
My current layout, my very first, is a 2' X 4' dogbone & although I like it a lot & plan to keep it, I'm ready for some longer runs & varying elevations. Ive gained confidence since building the first & watching umpteen videos, so I'm ready to tackle something larger & a tad more complicated. Y'all have been enormously helpful answering all my newbie questions.
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Post by Commodore on Oct 25, 2017 9:57:44 GMT -5
How do the doors open into the room space?
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Post by neverland on Oct 25, 2017 10:24:55 GMT -5
How do the doors open into the room space? Inwards away from the layout space. |
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Post by Commodore on Oct 25, 2017 14:44:33 GMT -5
So, the doors on either end can be closed while you are inside the room. (Like a darkroom..duh)
This means you have more width that just the 24" Prolly the room is 12 x 4
I was looking for a way to widen and expand the modules into the next room for running.
Part fixed layout and part ...On rollers like my modules.
I've found long runs and modules are the way to go in z scale.
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Post by dazed on Oct 25, 2017 14:57:44 GMT -5
I would look at the latest Ztrack Magazine article about the MRL. It's a nice plan...it is L-shaped but the longest leg of the L is right around 10'x24" so you could gain some ideas from that. Sounds like you want multiple levels and/or grades that it doesn't really have, but it's worth a look for inspiration if nothing else.
Is there some layout plan you've seen that approximates what you are looking for? Or perhaps just a layout online whereby the photos have inspired you? Also, what era/locale is of interest to you?
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Post by boxcarwilly on Oct 25, 2017 17:15:58 GMT -5
As everyone above has said, your layout can be as big or as small as you want it to be depending on what you want to do. My layout takes up my whole rec. room and it is built modular style so it can be easily disassembled and moved. While I am unable to provide pictures of it, and there were some on here at one time, my layout spans 35 ft. in length and mostly 2 ft. wide with certain modules jutting out from left to right of the main by 4 feet. I am currently building an addition which will house my switching yard and passenger terminal and that is 16 x 2 ft. and runs the length of one wall. A lift bridge connects both sides of my layout and allows for a walkway between them. The main part of my layout is built in such a way that it can be operated from behind, and viewed from the front. I used to take it to train shows, but I don't any more. In retrospect, I wish I had done things differently in this regard, because I can't see most of my layout from the control panel without the use of mirrors. It seemed like a good idea at the time.
As for maintenance, yes it's a chore to be sure with that much track and turnouts and such, but I've learned from experience, and the advice of others, to do things as carefully as possible the first time and not to RUSH to get a job done. To test, troubleshoot, and retest at every installation and so on to be sure it works. I will admit, my under table wiring is a nightmare, but it works.
It all comes down to what you want to do and how you want to do it. I will say this though, don't overextend yourself, and be sure that every foot you build can be comfortably controlled from a central location. specially if you work alone. Dazed mentioned that if you have friends, or even family members who are interested enough to assist you in cleaning track or any aspect of this hobby, that's fantastic. The more the merrier. Unfortunately, I don't have that luxury. So if your layout is big, the thought of cleaning all that track yourself can be daunting at best and extremely time consuming. But it has to be done.
For myself, I expect to have my layout complete to where I want it in about 6 years. Then I'll have the time to spend at play shall we say. I hope you enjoy yours when it's done. Good Luck
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