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Post by BAZman on Jan 21, 2016 13:31:17 GMT -5
Defunct That looks great ! We have built some 'inverted' Z-Bend Track (ZBT) modules where the extra tracks are outside the Outer tracks. We then have another 'internal' module that can be placed inbetween. The concept is like the Zmod modules of Scandinavia and Europe, essentially 1/2 the ZBT modules (just the 2 tracks). If you want to emulate a ZBT, 2 are placed back-to-back. But 'inverting' them places the bulk outside of the 'Outer' rails and leaves an equal size empty gap in the middle. A third module goes in there. By using a 'center' track on the full ZBT modules and extra track work 'outside' (like yours), this can connect to the Center track. We can post a picture after next month's Great Train Show.
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Post by rvn2001 on Jan 21, 2016 17:40:54 GMT -5
The main reason for the photo was to supply a picture of a long curve on the long side of a layout/module about the same size as the layout being built. The other side of this module was a yard with passing sidings and stub-end storage tracks to the outside of the outside main line and the inside of the inside main line. The module got damaged by the sun while sitting in the back of my car during an extremely hot August day here in the St. Louis area. The last 6 inches of the whole module got warped beyond repair. The track, roadbed and even the 2-inch thick foam was warped beyond repair. I salvaged all of the track and used it on my new passenger station modules.
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Post by dave on Jan 21, 2016 20:18:51 GMT -5
Thom,
Thanks for posting your pictures.
On another note: Has anyone tried the Rokuhan flex track and if so, what is your opinion of it?
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Post by markm on Jan 21, 2016 21:16:00 GMT -5
Dave, I've tried the Rokuhan flex track, clever design, works ok for straights and broad curves. The segmented roadbed pieces look a bit funny on tighter (220mm) curves. Regardless, I'd suggest adding ballast to the outside of the roadbed.
Mark
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Post by dave on Jan 21, 2016 21:51:36 GMT -5
I was thinking of using it to make some very gently curves on one long side. First, I want to see if the 490mm curves will work and if not, I will try the flex track.
Regarding ballasting, are there any videos out there of someone demonstrating ballasting Rokuhan track? I have zero experience painting, weathering or ballasting track. Thanks for your help.
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Post by zscalehobo on Jan 21, 2016 22:16:52 GMT -5
I was thinking of using it to make some very gently curves on one long side. First, I want to see if the 490mm curves will work and if not, I will try the flex track. Regarding ballasting, are there any videos out there of someone demonstrating ballasting Rokuhan track? I have zero experience painting, weathering or ballasting track. Thanks for your help. Aside from the threads on this board where there are several descriptions, just hit YouTube and check ballasting Kato unitrack. It's pretty much the same process. I found dozens of videos for that search.
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Post by dave on Jan 21, 2016 23:10:20 GMT -5
Frank, thanks for the reply. I am really interested in knowing what people used for ballast, glue mixture, etc. for Rokuhan track, whether they only ballast outside the rails, how to deal with switches, etc. I was hoping had done a video demonstration. I will do some searches as you recommended.
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Post by emaley on Jan 21, 2016 23:35:27 GMT -5
I ballasted my Rokuhan track following Mike Fifers how to video on youtube. He does Kato track, but the principal is the same. Woodland Scenics Fine light gray ballast is a great color match. I can post a couple pictures tomorrow.
Trey
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Post by markm on Jan 22, 2016 12:28:53 GMT -5
Dave, I think you may consider the flex track: it would give you the opportunity for easements and radii other than 490mm and works as a filler track. For ballasting, I'll leave most of the details to others, but I prefer a minimalist approach: why buy roadbed track only to cover it up? I use an India ink wash to bring out the roadbed texture. I add a little bit of gravel on and around the outside just to vary the gravel-line edge and texture. My flex track is in a tunnel, so I didn't detail it, but the design of the roadbed will leave some grooves on the convex side that you'll want to fill in.
Mark
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Post by atw on Jan 22, 2016 17:10:57 GMT -5
I prefer a minimalist shake-the-box approach too - I simply add a shoulder of Woodlands fine grey ballast to the Rokuhan track and leave the inside of the track well alone. If you look down on it, sure, it shows, but it actually looks quite good (well, by my standards) from all other angles and I've never had any problems with derailments or stalling or such. I simply heap the ballast gently onto the shoulder from a teaspoon that I rest on the rail sideways and slightly tilted, and then tamp it into place so it comes right up to the sleepers; a mist of "wet water" (i.e. water with the standard drop or two of washing up liquid to break up surface tension) and then a 2:1 mix of wet water and white glue secures it forever. With turnouts, I seal the edges of the track first with a line of white glue before applying the ballast; that way the water-glue mixture applied to the ballast won't seep underneath the turnout and mess up things. Never had a problem so far. cheerZ Adrian
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Post by Guba on Jan 26, 2016 22:37:51 GMT -5
In regards to color of ballast, that would be dependent on the area of country your from. In my area, white limestone is used. I see plenty of railcars coming in where I work that have the gray colored stone hitching a ride courtesy of vandals. Just an observation...
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Post by atw on Jan 27, 2016 16:07:03 GMT -5
Good point, Guba. And I would add "era" to "area" - seems to me that track is generally maintained to much higher standards these days. Looking at color pictures from the 70s and 80s some of that ballast looks as though it's been there for ever, completely stained with rust and soot.
Adrian
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Post by dave on Feb 1, 2016 23:07:05 GMT -5
For the guys using the pink (or blue) foam for you layout base...I am curious on how you run your wiring for power and switches. I am assuming you drill holes through the layout and run your wires through. I am using Rokuhan track and the power plugs and switch connectors are pretty big; do you drill a big enough hole to feed them through or cut them off and just have a small hole? Also, on the bottom side of the layout, do you carve recesses for the wiring to run or what do you do with that? I would like to see some pictures of the underside showing wiring if possible. Thanks for your help.
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Post by tjdreams on Feb 2, 2016 0:04:18 GMT -5
I run the wires through a small hole. Get yourself the Rokuhan A018 Connector Pin Remover and take the plugs apart run the wires through a small hole, then reassemble the plug
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Post by dave on Feb 2, 2016 19:10:44 GMT -5
For those of you using Rokuhan track with their power connectors, what are you using for power distribution under the layout? On my layout, I would imagine I will have 8-12 power cords and I am looking for the best way to connect them all together. Photos would be awesome if possible. Thanks for your help.
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