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Post by ednadolski on Mar 19, 2024 14:52:52 GMT -5
Here are a few quick snaps of a current project to construct a couple of #8 turnouts in Z scale. I am using ME code 40 rail soldered to the FastTracks PCB ties (which I am really liking for this sort of work). As you can see, this is actually two turnouts constructed together as one piece, to reduce the number of rail joints. I used a couple of prototype photocopy templates (I don't remember which RR) taped to an MDF board on the bench, and then double-sided scotch tape to hold the ties in place while working. I went with flexible point rails rather than hinged, as the ME rail joiners that I usually use as heel blocks in larger scales look too big for Z scale (in my view), and also can contact the wheel flanges. I found the FastTracks rail filing tool helped improve speed and accuracy, tho I don't use the full-sized turnout jigs. The main construction is finished, so the remaining steps at this point are to clean/paint the turnouts, and cut the rail gaps at the frogs before installing them (along with the wood ties, which are currently soaking in stain) onto the layout. (Pics are a bit large, so be sure to zoom in for detail). 😉 PCB ties laid out, gapped, and tinned: Stock rails and frog rails (Note how the frog rail of the left turnout becomes the stock rail of the next turnout, so no rail joint there.): Outer stock rail added: Closure/Point/Guard rails added, throwbars in place, and ready for cleaning/installation: Thanks for looking! I will be following up with some more pics as this project completes. Cheers, Ed
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Post by Tiest van Gool on Mar 19, 2024 21:28:27 GMT -5
Looks great! Waiting to receive my code 40 turnouts jigs 6 and 8. Will post once I am trying to get this going on some simple straight track. ;-)
-Tiest
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hideaki
New Member
I really love American Z scale Locomotives!
Posts: 44
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Post by hideaki on Mar 20, 2024 4:05:14 GMT -5
Hi Ed,
Nice work! I think it seems to reduce derailment, isn't it? I usually use Marklin turnout, but they have problem on contactivity and tendency to derail lightweight freights. Rokuhan is reliable but looks so ....,
BTW what about switch machine, MP1/MTB-Model or some stole motor?
Best Hide
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einot
Engineer
Posts: 102
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Post by einot on Mar 21, 2024 6:04:50 GMT -5
Hi Ed, Nice work! I think it seems to reduce derailment, isn't it? I usually use Marklin turnout, but they have problem on contactivity and tendency to derail lightweight freights. Rokuhan is reliable but looks so ...., BTW what about switch machine, MP1/MTB-Model or some stole motor? Best Hide Hi, it's quite easy to fix the conductivity issue with regular use of WD-40 electronic contact cleaner spray. Just spray under the blades where you see the contact strips and yank the blades a few times. Does not hurt to use the same stuff for the other conductive parts of the turnout also. Rub with a cotton bud perhaps. BR, Eino
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Post by ednadolski on Mar 21, 2024 11:56:16 GMT -5
BTW what about switch machine, MP1/MTB-Model or some stole motor?
No machine, but I am planning to to a fascia-mounted DPDT mini slide switch, both to throw the points and to changed the frog polarity.
Ed
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Post by Tiest van Gool on Mar 21, 2024 23:12:44 GMT -5
Ed,
What paint do you use to paint the track? And what to stain the ties?
-Tiest
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Post by ednadolski on Mar 22, 2024 12:36:33 GMT -5
Ed, What paint do you use to paint the track? And what to stain the ties? -Tiest
I like to prime the rail/ties assembly with a Tamiya spray primer from the rattle can (afterwards wiping from the railheads). Paint/color is mostly a matter of preference after that, lately I've used the Vallejo Model Color in a couple of grey/earth tones mixed together and either airbrushed or hand-brushed.
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Post by Edward on Mar 25, 2024 8:11:35 GMT -5
Fantastic work!! 👍🏻👍🏻
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Post by cwrr on Mar 25, 2024 16:56:32 GMT -5
Yeah, I gotta' agree-those are a thing of beauty right there!
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Post by ednadolski on Mar 25, 2024 20:23:02 GMT -5
A bit of progress. Here is the assembly primed and located onto the layout: Locating some of the stained wood ties into place on the templates: The rest of the wood ties, plus wiring for the rails: Back onto the layout, wires thru the feeder holes (it's not glued in place just yet, to allow for adjustments): Thanks for looking, more to come soon Ed
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Post by Tiest van Gool on Mar 26, 2024 20:23:46 GMT -5
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Post by ednadolski on Mar 27, 2024 0:20:58 GMT -5
IDK if I can give a clear enough description in a post, but here is a summary. (There are some better descriptions online and in books, tho be a bit skeptical since too many of them are not well written, and/or suffer from TMI.)
I wire my turnouts to have powered (as opposed to 'unpowered' or 'dead') frogs, which is the green feeder wires in the pics. These will be connected thru a mini DPDT slide switch, which will also throw the points. When the points are thrown to the straight route, the switch connects the frog to the black rail, and when thrown to the diverging route, the frog is switched to the red rail.
For this to work, the PCB ties all have to be properly gapped, and the frogs also have to be gapped from their adjacent rails, otherwise the red/black rails will see a short to each other. I cut the frog rail gaps using a fine-bladed jewelers saw with the turnouts (gently) held in a small vice (this is a rather delicate step, but it is one benefit of bench-built turnouts).
The rails to the right of either frog have their own feeder wires to ensure that they always have power. Each point/closure rail is also electrically connected to its adjacent stock rail via the PCB ties, to likewise ensure that those rails always have power. (This is the so-called "DCC-friendly" scheme, tho I never use power routing points because metal wheels can create a short when going over point/stock rails that have opposite polarities.)
(I usually prefer the look of hinged point rails, but that does need each point rail to have a jumper wire to its adjacent stock rail, which is trickier to add on smaller turnouts. So instead for these I just used continuous point/closure rails to keep things simple and more reliable.)
HTH, Ed
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Post by ednadolski on Mar 27, 2024 0:38:35 GMT -5
Yes, that pretty much is the same idea. My only preference for the slide switch since ground throws in N and Z scales are rather oversize. Electrically they are equivalent.
Edit - This pic is N scale, but it shows how I install the DPDT switch to control the turnout. Note that the throw wire runs in a small metal tube so that it can be covered with scenery. (I do like that it keeps my 1:1 scale fingers away from the track, so less likely for derailments or damage ) i.imgur.com/FGqRsRd.jpg
Edit - note that the throw wire is phosphor bronze. Brass wire is too flimsy, and music wire would probably be too stiff to allow the wire to flex/absorb the distance differences between the movement of the points and the slide positions on the switch. (Either the switch would not slide far enough, or the stiff wire would create too much pressure on the points.)
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Post by stevew on Mar 27, 2024 6:54:00 GMT -5
Ed, I give you a lot of credit for taking on the task of making your own turnouts. I have thought about it and would like to give it a go, seeing your photos has rekindled my interest. I look forward to seeing your progress.
Steve W
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Post by Tiest van Gool on Mar 27, 2024 10:39:07 GMT -5
Ed - thanks a ton. Once I have some progression on my end, I willl share here some results; awaiting code 40 turnout 9 arrival next week. -Tiest
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