Marklin Pacific & Mikado Motor Upgrade

Now gently remove the driveshaft by twisting the gear as you pull it out of the chassis. if it came out with the motor simply pull it straight out of the motor housing.

Next If you plan to install a decoder you will need to unsolder and remove the capacitor. Otherwise gently bend each leg up and out a little so you see the screw hole.
Now you will have to do some test fitting. Depending on what drive shaft and motor combination your loco used you may need to buy the E275123 , or the E226940 ( sane as E261460) or if its in good shape you might be able to use the one that you just removed .

To figure out which one you need Start by fitting the new E275145 motor on the chassis with the mounting hole on the top. Looking straight down from the top If the hole in the tab lines up with the existing mounting hole on the chassis you will probably need to get the E275123 shaft. If the holes do not line up at all or only ½ the hole is visible, then you have 2 options. (A) order The E226940 or the E261460 which I’m told are the same part and modify it to fit. (B) Modify the drive shaft you just took out.

Choosing (A) or (B)? How was your steamer running? Great, Good, Just fine in both directions, your probably fine using option (B) modifying your existing drive shaft, However if it’s just running ok, not running too good, or runs better in one direction than the other, choose option (A) order a new E261460 or E226940, as your existing drive shaft may be worn out or starting to wear out. Regardless of whether your drive shaft is worn or not I recommend getting a new shaft. No sense in using a worn driveshaft with your new motor.


Modifying the drive shaft test fit the spur gear end into the bearing on your new motor.
if the gears line up skip to the next section


If the gears on it and the motor do not line up you will have to shorten that end of the drive shaft.


Stick the drive shaft in a pin vice to make it easier to hold while you grind or cut it down with a cut off wheel. Do not us a pair of snips the cutting pressure will deform/Egg the end of the shaft. I used a cutoff wheel on my Dremel to cut the shaft off then some fine files to remove any burs and round over the end of the shaft. I cut 2mm off the shaft on for the Pacific then ground it down another 0.5mm little by little .01mm at a time test fitting it each time by putting the shaft in the chassis then holding the motor in place grinding it down a little more each time until the plastic motor housing sat flush with the back end of the chassis. Then I took another .01mm off to make sure it wasn’t too tight.

If the holes on your motor housing did not line up with the one in your chassis you can use a small round file or reamer to turn the hole on the motor mount tab into a slot. Don’t over do it you just need to make it long enough for the screw to work

Making room for the motor
Now at 6.75 mm wide the inside of the shell is too small for the 7mm can motor to fit. You will need to file or grid a little bit off the inside of the boiler just in front of the cab. For this I used my Dremel with a 194 bit to gently grind about 0.13mm off each side.

Great work and good understandable step-by-step instruction. What typ of decoder fits inside the cab? I´m thinking about a Doehler & Haas PD05A Micro-Decoder.

Thanks!

You are right Mark a lot of useful info like this dose get lost over time. Guess I'm going to have to get myself a Video camera setup and learn how to do live how-to video's.

I agree I love the sound and smell of a old Lionel 3 rail O gauge Loco running around the track. Hell I've been known to leave gaps between the track sections just to amplify the clickity clack of the wheels crossing the joint.

But I will pass on the Garbage Disposal sound. In fact I have another project sitting here on my work bench that's doing a fine job of silencing a loco that many call the "coffee grinder"