|
Post by nscaler711 on Mar 19, 2022 18:33:15 GMT -5
Ha Got 'Em! Ha got 'em! Sorry. So I did something to improve the headlight of my ATSF F7A that I thought you all would like to see. I removed the original LED, and soldered a new one in but, closer to the actual headlight location. (Side note, if you know how to do a mars light let me know. Straight DC at the moment.) I had to remove the light bar from the shell which wasn't too bad just lift up with a set of tweezers and wiggle a bit and it popped right out without breaking. Now for moving the headlight I needed something to keep the LED in place, so I found a strip of L shaped styrene and cut it to fit the gap in the mechanism where the original light bar went. Using small drill bits I carefully carved a pathway for the magnet wire and a spot for the new 0603 LED to sit. I did have to file portions of the styrene so the shell sits flush. Also no. I forgot to take a before shot. *Facepalm* I'll... Post another shot of the finished result in a second post... 1MB and 2 attachment post limit seriously? If you didn't need magnifying glasses for Z scale already, you'll need them for the pictures.
|
|
|
Post by nscaler711 on Mar 19, 2022 18:35:55 GMT -5
So... Here's the finished result... Also... Shot on a S21 Ultra... So big pictures... Lots of cropping.
|
|
|
Post by Admin on Mar 19, 2022 20:39:15 GMT -5
Great job, love to see mods like this!!!
John
|
|
|
Post by markm on Mar 19, 2022 22:33:04 GMT -5
Richmond Controls makes/made a DC module for the MTL F7s that gives you both a headlight and Mars light. I haven’t tried it in an AZL unit but I think it can fit.
|
|
|
Post by nscaler711 on Mar 19, 2022 23:19:26 GMT -5
Richmond Controls makes/made a DC module for the MTL F7s that gives you both a headlight and Mars light. I haven’t tried it in an AZL unit but I think it can fit. Looked them up, and they seem to be backordered at ZSM. Also not quite sure where to find one elsewhere. I guess my next question is, would it be possible with a Digitrax decoder? Don't get me wrong, TCS is nice, but I don't even shell out for them in N scale. Lol
|
|
|
Post by markm on Mar 19, 2022 23:42:30 GMT -5
You might want contact him directly as most of his product line is build as needed. SALES@RICHMONDCONTROLS.COM
|
|
|
Post by husafreak on Mar 20, 2022 12:09:41 GMT -5
Nice mod, it must be very bright now.
|
|
|
Post by BAZman on Mar 20, 2022 23:49:22 GMT -5
a couple of points. It's great to take up a challenge but its a bit easier. it has been a major complaint the DC/DCC LED's (same position) are more than 2mm BELOW the light pipe and more than 1mm away. In all products! Ngineering makes a bunch of DC light boards: www.ngineering.com/lghting%20effects%20for%20the%20railroad.htmAs for solving the Light Transmission, I use external Warm White LED's (0805 or smaller 0603), available from ebay in 10/pc lots. MAKE SURE YOU PUT A 5-20Kohm resistor (or know you are still tapped into the DC or DCC board's. An Xacto knife along the sides of the pipe at the gray cab block, can then work it out. But WAIT !!! Its even easier !!! Drill a #60 divot in the inside of corner (where the to lens is. Place the LED in the divot, tape the leads to hold in place and use a drop of Canopy Glue. Wait hours, more drops. (OK, more words, more time, but simple) Have a 2 light cab nose? Pope the light pipe, drill that 2 #60 divots, cut a gap between the 2 lens, glue in the LED's, reinstall the pipes. If you have a 2 lite cab, using the 1 running light, you can place another one in the light pipe under the gray cab and it will shine enough to light it. I have pix but not accessible right now. Tomorrow.
|
|
|
Post by nscaler711 on Mar 22, 2022 23:28:02 GMT -5
BAZman I'll definitely look those up when I get a chance. Im already toying with a other set up incase I ever decided to go the Mars light route, it'll still be based around what I have except I'll have to add a light block inside the shell. I would suspect those boards would fit in a car body Z loco, since they are designed to fit in a N scale hood unit.
|
|