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Post by Deleted on May 7, 2021 9:29:04 GMT -5
MagneMatic couplers should uncouple if the cars are pushed over an "active" magnet, permanent or solenoïd ... Unfortunately Rokuhan turnouts use such permanent (neodyme) magnets. So, despite of the fact that I didn't notice yet such an issue, I am afraid that cars could (Murphy ! ) get uncoupled if I "push back" into a dead end freight track. I don't use the uncoupling function, so I wonder if the best thing would not be to simply remove the metallic bars. Has this a mechanical disadvantage ? BTW I seal all "coupler boxes" with "gel superglue", I noticed that especially on some of my FT cars the couplers "unmount" very easily, even with no special vertical effort : very fine in tunnels (Murphy ! ), to recover the parts ...  Thanks for any answers. |
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Post by dazed on May 7, 2021 11:02:48 GMT -5
Wouldn't worry about it, especially if you glue the couplers shut.
I'm assuming by "metallic bars" you mean the "hoses" hanging down from the MTL couplers? There is no functional reason for them other than the uncoupling so they can easily be cut off. (Not sure exactly why, but I don't think you want to pull them out. Probably because attempting to pull them out often results in unintentionally disassembling the coupler. I can't remember from my days of assembling 1015's but there might be some manner of structural integrity in having the hose inserted through the coupler. Most people I know just cut them off with a dremel or wire cutters.)
Another thought...wait until it is confirmed as an actual problem. I've never heard of anyone having an issue with MTL MagneMatic couplers on Rokuhan. A solution without a problem isn't the best use of time.
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Post by Deleted on May 7, 2021 14:29:57 GMT -5
I didn't glue the two parts of the couplers themselves together, but the "cover" of the box which is molded with the truck. And I suceeded in removing several rods without damaging the coupler parts. I was only thinking that the rod was a kind of "mechanical limiter" for the second moveable part ? Perhaps I should really only cut the rod, but not with a dremel, because this would cause heat, and I am afraid that the plastic parts (hum ...) I think You understand !
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Post by markm on May 7, 2021 21:33:41 GMT -5
I’ve been running locomotives and rolling stock over the Rokuhan straight turnouts for years with no uncoupling problems. Likewise for MTL turnouts, which also contain a cm square magnet. The uncoupling magnets and solenoids MTL sells are really quite large, much larger than in any of the turnouts. I think you don’t really need to worry about Murphy too much.
Mark
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Post by domi on May 8, 2021 10:26:16 GMT -5
I didn't glue the two parts of the couplers themselves together, but the "cover" of the box which is molded with the truck. And I suceeded in removing several rods without damaging the coupler parts. I was only thinking that the rod was a kind of "mechanical limiter" for the second moveable part ? Perhaps I should really only cut the rod, but not with a dremel, because this would cause heat, and I am afraid that the plastic parts (hum ...) I think You understand ! Are you speaking of the couplers' trip pin ? The curved steel device that allows MTL/Kadee couplers' knuckle to open and uncouple when over a magnetic source ?  Dom |
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Post by Deleted on May 8, 2021 12:01:44 GMT -5
To Domi : yes, it's exactly that. Meanwhile I modified many of my cars : I adjusted the height ot the rod so that only one millimeter protruded over the upper side of the coupler and sealed it with gel superglue using a toothpick (so that the coupler could still move); then I cut the rod about one millimeter under the coupler (with a finger nail cutter, I know this device has been "sacrificed" ).
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Post by domi on May 9, 2021 7:56:08 GMT -5
Ok, interresting. And thus you're still able to perform some uncoupling with a hand device (toothpick, needle, etc) ?
Dom
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Post by Deleted on May 9, 2021 8:08:54 GMT -5
Rather removing the whole car vertically, to swap the cars of the freight train ... I NEVER uncouple, and am happy if my cars stay coupled, and don't get lost while running ! And I don't switch, the whole train is pushed back (automatically, by the sequencer program) to the depot(s).
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Post by zman on May 9, 2021 17:58:02 GMT -5
I use Marklin track and turn-outs and had plenty of issues initially. But since following this forum and keeping the track and wheels clean I have had minimum issues. I tried using a tooth pick or other sharp object to uncouple. Usually I just managed to derail the car. I use O-5-O when I am doing operations on my layout. I enjoy moving cars around and using different locomotives. I cutoff the trip pins short. I had plenty of derailments when I first started by since the trip pins are no longer a factor I usually avoid derailments unless I have a brain fart and forget to through a switch. I really enjoy my z scale layouts.
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Post by domi on May 30, 2021 14:27:14 GMT -5
Rather removing the whole car vertically, to swap the cars of the freight train ... I NEVER uncouple, and am happy if my cars stay coupled, and don't get lost while running ! And I don't switch, the whole train is pushed back (automatically, by the sequencer program) to the depot(s).
OK, copy that. Dom |
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Thanks for any answers. 
