Post by domi on Aug 29, 2020 8:14:54 GMT -5
I’ve recently started a new project, that deals with what I had already undergone a while ago with my AZL locomotives.
My goal is having all my rolling stock and motive power beeing Micro-Trains Magnematic coupler-equipped, which is not the case with these two brands both equiped with AZL trucks and Autolatch couplers.
As AZL and Intermountain freight cars have truck-mounted couplers, I find easier to swap trucks with MTL samples. And keeping truck-mounted couplers, these last ones beeing now MTL brand. I would have preferred setting body-mounted couplers for realism (and which is almost mandatory when pushing long trains of more than 30 cars), but as my trains are due to remain in the 20-25-car size, it’s easier for me to swap trucks (even if it’s more expensive) rather than putting MTL #905 coupler boxes at carbody ends (I’ve messed a lot of these while putting them on the body of my AZL and MTL locomotives).
So I ordered 5 packs of 20 Barber Roller Bearing trucks each, reference #004 10 071.
On the other hand I ordered a while ago 4 boxes of Uncle Will’s 33’’ steel axles, whose a fair number are still available to me.
Truck swapping is rather straightforward :
-Remove original AZL axles from AZL or Intermountain car.
-With a small flat watchmaker's screwdriver, remove the bolster pin that holds truck to carbody.
-Remove axles from MTL truck to be installed.
-Set MTL truck to place with car’s original bolster pin (very easy, all truck brands having the same diameter hole).
-Set Uncle Will’s axles to place on truck (Or original plastic MTL samples. I don’t consider using AZL’s greater diameter wheel as thus truck and coupler will lie higher on track, maybe leading to coupler malfunction – anyway one has to try..).
And that’s it.
However, one has to consider that MTL’s coupler box is slightly thicker/higher than AZL’s. So if one considers doing so for AZL’s 23000-Gallon Funnel Flow Tank Car, he must first file car’s end cross beam that lies just above the coupler box. I don’t know yet whether I’ll do that using a small fingernail file or a Dremel..
So, for the time beeing, I’ve modified following car brands :
-Intermountain Cylindrical Covered Hoppers,
-AZL 3-Bay ACF Hoppers.
Of course I will keep you advised of what’s going on in the future. However, I still have to find a solution for my AZL autoracks : as these cars have their trucks far towards carbody’s inner part, MTL’s trucks are obviously of no use for these. And although my current and future layouts are only made with broad curves, these are still too tight for having carbody mounted couplers on this car brand. So I’ll have to keep current trucks and coupler arms and find a way to put MTL #905 coupler boxes on. I don’t know yet how to.
Dom
My goal is having all my rolling stock and motive power beeing Micro-Trains Magnematic coupler-equipped, which is not the case with these two brands both equiped with AZL trucks and Autolatch couplers.
As AZL and Intermountain freight cars have truck-mounted couplers, I find easier to swap trucks with MTL samples. And keeping truck-mounted couplers, these last ones beeing now MTL brand. I would have preferred setting body-mounted couplers for realism (and which is almost mandatory when pushing long trains of more than 30 cars), but as my trains are due to remain in the 20-25-car size, it’s easier for me to swap trucks (even if it’s more expensive) rather than putting MTL #905 coupler boxes at carbody ends (I’ve messed a lot of these while putting them on the body of my AZL and MTL locomotives).
So I ordered 5 packs of 20 Barber Roller Bearing trucks each, reference #004 10 071.
On the other hand I ordered a while ago 4 boxes of Uncle Will’s 33’’ steel axles, whose a fair number are still available to me.
Truck swapping is rather straightforward :
-Remove original AZL axles from AZL or Intermountain car.
-With a small flat watchmaker's screwdriver, remove the bolster pin that holds truck to carbody.
-Remove axles from MTL truck to be installed.
-Set MTL truck to place with car’s original bolster pin (very easy, all truck brands having the same diameter hole).
-Set Uncle Will’s axles to place on truck (Or original plastic MTL samples. I don’t consider using AZL’s greater diameter wheel as thus truck and coupler will lie higher on track, maybe leading to coupler malfunction – anyway one has to try..).
And that’s it.
However, one has to consider that MTL’s coupler box is slightly thicker/higher than AZL’s. So if one considers doing so for AZL’s 23000-Gallon Funnel Flow Tank Car, he must first file car’s end cross beam that lies just above the coupler box. I don’t know yet whether I’ll do that using a small fingernail file or a Dremel..
So, for the time beeing, I’ve modified following car brands :
-Intermountain Cylindrical Covered Hoppers,
-AZL 3-Bay ACF Hoppers.
Of course I will keep you advised of what’s going on in the future. However, I still have to find a solution for my AZL autoracks : as these cars have their trucks far towards carbody’s inner part, MTL’s trucks are obviously of no use for these. And although my current and future layouts are only made with broad curves, these are still too tight for having carbody mounted couplers on this car brand. So I’ll have to keep current trucks and coupler arms and find a way to put MTL #905 coupler boxes on. I don’t know yet how to.
Dom
