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Post by arsenix2001 on Sept 25, 2018 13:28:49 GMT -5
Thank you guys! I may add a few smudges to balance it out. One issue I had was I did not trim the waterslide decal close enough for my first try and have been trying to feather it in using weathering powder.
one question regarding the graffiti, do most cars that are tagged usually end up getting both sides or is it really luck of the draw if it's one-sided or not?
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Post by arsenix2001 on Sept 25, 2018 22:09:49 GMT -5
The mule testing continues! I really wanted to try my hand at rust. Again I think it's far from perfect but for a first time I think it's ok. Been staring at it so long I'm going cross-eyed . Going to have a fresh look tomorrow and see how it looks. I don't mind the extreme rust of the gondola as this one would be one of my heavier weathers, being a pretty beat up, dated, older color scheme car used to haul boulders and such. Ordering myself microset and Sol as well .The denatured alcohol is just way too harsh on the paint. Hope you aren't getting sick of my test shots!
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Post by smr on Sept 26, 2018 2:44:56 GMT -5
The mule testing continues! I really wanted to try my hand at rust. The finer the rust powder you use, the better. Let mother Nature do the work for you. And don't forget to coat it if you want it permanently Best, Sven PS: Extreme example by Sascha and Dirk
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Post by dazed on Sept 26, 2018 9:42:21 GMT -5
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Post by arsenix2001 on Sept 26, 2018 10:48:31 GMT -5
Thanks Dazed. It does seem harder as the white really does show everything. I wasn't very happy with the interior yesterday either. Appreciate the honesty. It was getting late and a sore back followed suit. I think I will go back over the exterior with a stiff brush on the exterior to soften it slightly and clean the interior and try again. My tamiya powders are coming today which I may try as well. I've thought of investing in an airbrush set but the thought of permanently making a boo boo keeps me from doing it. I know she seems pretty beat up. I was trying to go for the effect of large stones bulging the sides and popping paint creating those dark brown rust spots which I sort of think I achieved. I'll give it a fresh look today and post the results again. Again thanks for the tips and the pictures
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Post by arsenix2001 on Sept 26, 2018 21:37:06 GMT -5
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Post by arsenix2001 on Sept 27, 2018 21:37:20 GMT -5
Dazed, I looked at this thing again tonight and kept looking at your prototype pictures and once again decided to redo. This was the cleanest I could get without a total scrubdown and went back over to smooth the interior. Thoughts? I feel it may still be too weathered but not sure. I cleaned up the ribside reinforcement a little after this pic was taken. feeling like im starting to overthink this.
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Post by dazed on Sept 28, 2018 5:12:26 GMT -5
I think that looks great.. seriously, nice job.
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Post by ztrack on Sept 28, 2018 8:10:10 GMT -5
The collector in me won't let me weather cars or locos. But I am a huge fan of MTL's weathered series. I prefer the prototypical cars, not the fantasy ones. Now that MTL can print a photo onto a car, we are getting some amazing schemes and liveries. I personally want to see more! The 51' rib side mechanical reefer for the WFE / GN released this month is already a personal favorite.
Rob
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Post by dazed on Sept 28, 2018 9:34:32 GMT -5
I realized I never really answered your “luck of the draw” question, but I’d say that’s pretty much how it goes. Not much rhyme or reason as to whether both sides get tagged. Often it is a function of era and how old the car is. The proliferation of truly garish graffiti started in the late 90’s and really went full force in the early 2000’s. So if you’re modeling an earlier era, then graffiti is both less prevalent and also much less “robust”. And, while any car built post-90’s is much more likely to be tagged, it has also had less opportunity depending on how many years it has been on the rails.
Another thing that comes into play is the physical characteristics of the car. The white Trincool reefers couldn’t be a more perfect canvas for graffiti, so they are very popular. I would say lighter color cars attract certain styles, while darker cars like BNSF’s mineral red 5161 covered hoppers will feature a lot of white paint. But any car that has large expanses of flat, open space are the primary targets. Cars with complex graphics, a lot of vertical support ribs, or other “complications” are less likely to get tagged. So back to your question, the more popular cars to be tagged are also more likely to have both sides tagged.
And finally, there is an ACCESS component. Cars that sit for long periods omare more likely to have a chance encounter with a tagger. Whereas Intermodal equipment, for example, never stands still for long (and doesn’t score high on the physical characteristics scale either) so there tend to be fewer stack cars tagged.
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Post by dazed on Sept 28, 2018 9:51:02 GMT -5
The collector in me won't let me weather cars or locos. But I am a huge fan of MTL's weathered series. I prefer the prototypical cars, not the fantasy ones. Now that MTL can print a photo onto a car, we are getting some amazing schemes and liveries. I personally want to see more! The 51' rib side mechanical reefer for the WFE / GN released this month is already a personal favorite. Rob That WFE reefer is pretty awesome...wish I modeled that era. I wish MTL would do more “90’s era” weathering/graffiti. They tend to go for the “way over the top” stuff. I also wish AZL would consider “getting in the game”. Especially look at what Athearn is doing with their series of lightly weathered cars. Whereas MTL tends to kill sales with their uber-garish stuff, the faded paint, lightly weathered cars and weathered trucks are a great way to give the car a nice look without going too far.
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Post by arsenix2001 on Sept 29, 2018 13:24:39 GMT -5
I realized I never really answered your “luck of the draw” question, but I’d say that’s pretty much how it goes. Not much rhyme or reason as to whether both sides get tagged. Often it is a function of era and how old the car is. The proliferation of truly garish graffiti started in the late 90’s and really went full force in the early 2000’s. So if you’re modeling an earlier era, then graffiti is both less prevalent and also much less “robust”. And, while any car built post-90’s is much more likely to be tagged, it has also had less opportunity depending on how many years it has been on the rails. Another thing that comes into play is the physical characteristics of the car. The white Trincool reefers couldn’t be a more perfect canvas for graffiti, so they are very popular. I would say lighter color cars attract certain styles, while darker cars like BNSF’s mineral red 5161 covered hoppers will feature a lot of white paint. But any car that has large expanses of flat, open space are the primary targets. Cars with complex graphics, a lot of vertical support ribs, or other “complications” are less likely to get tagged. So back to your question, the more popular cars to be tagged are also more likely to have both sides tagged. And finally, there is an ACCESS component. Cars that sit for long periods omare more likely to have a chance encounter with a tagger. Whereas Intermodal equipment, for example, never stands still for long (and doesn’t score high on the physical characteristics scale either) so there tend to be fewer stack cars tagged. That is great info and a very good guide to follow! Makes sense. I wasnt a huge proto realism guy but you are starting to convert me! In fact I even went back and studied those proto photos you posted and decided to do one more make over and I must say am pleased with the results. Even went to darken interior rust and add grease grime to the front of the car. I will make sure to look up photos in the future. As mark said it really is easy to get caught up in over weathering. Attachments:
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Post by dazed on Sept 29, 2018 20:30:38 GMT -5
Wow, I don’t think I”ve ever seen anyone tackle the learning curve quite like you have. I need to be taking tips from YOU now.
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Post by arsenix2001 on Sept 29, 2018 21:07:02 GMT -5
Wow, I don’t think I”ve ever seen anyone tackle the learning curve quite like you have. I need to be taking tips from YOU now. Haha hardly! Thank you for the compliment. Honestly thank you all for all of the tips criticism and knowledge. I feel I'm on the right track (har har) now to continue. Will most likely refer to your info regarding graffiti an back off the weathering for future cars. I do have to be honest, I want to rust the heck out of the Azl 2 bay chessie hopper I have, but I feel that's believeable. Additional question, I'm going to seal this with dullcote, how do you guys deal with the trucks/couplers. Remove?
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Post by dazed on Oct 1, 2018 10:33:01 GMT -5
Well, I'm trying to let others jump in...I feel like I'm monopolizing this thread and that's not my intent. But yes, I generally will disassemble a model that I'm weathering. Admittedly I'm still trying to figure out a good system for trucks/couplers. Some modelers swear by this duplicolor.com/product/adhesion-promoter or similar products as a starting point to help paint adhere to the delrin plastic used for trucks and plastic wheelsets. (other options include sanding or sandblasting using baking soda, for example) My personal thoughts on this is you wouldn't want anything (adhesion promoter, paint, or dullcote) to get on the axle needles or the axle cups on the trucks since you want that point to have close to zero friction. I'm thinking of maybe removing the trucks from the car, applying this adhesion promoter as the first coat with the wheelsets still in place, and then removing the wheelsets immediately after so they don't get "paint-glued together". (and I would fear the same thing happening with just dullcote'ing the entire car trucks and all) This naturally masks the areas I don't want paint. (I generally use metal wheelsets. I'm thinking that using plastic wheelsets for the "masking" part isn't a terrible plan since I have many lying around. For truck/coupler combos, some care will need to be taken with the couplers to keep from painting them shut as well.) Then I'll paint the wheelsets/couplers and wheels per their intended prototype. Just keep in mind that the above are just some ideas I've had...nothing really tested. So, buyer beware, your-mileage-may-vary, etc. etc. EDIT: I just ordered a can of that adhesion promoter and may start down that path as soon as this weekend so I'll let you know.
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