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Post by theflyingrhodesian on Aug 9, 2017 12:41:20 GMT -5
Wrap the IR sensor in a short piece of heat shrink tube. This narrows the 'field of view' of the sensor and makes it much more sensitive to the wagon immediately above it.
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Post by theflyingrhodesian on Feb 10, 2017 17:23:12 GMT -5
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Post by theflyingrhodesian on Dec 30, 2016 13:02:23 GMT -5
I'm pleased to report that the MTL F7 is running better now. I did a little work on the whisker contacts and the loco runs pretty well with all wheels on track. I am waiting delivery of the first AZL loco too - the GP38-2 was a bargain not to be ignored! I've done a little more work to the layout over the Christmas period, the track is ballasted, there are some trees in place and the first iteration of the Trestle Span bridge is complete:
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Post by theflyingrhodesian on Dec 19, 2016 16:44:43 GMT -5
If you watch closely, the loco stutters around the curve to the left. The loco will only run as shown with the rear wheels 'cocked' - by that I mean I have the rear left wheel hanging outboard of the track. If placed with all wheels on the track correctly, it will not run unless on a left hand curve! I have had the loco apart, to check the brushes and all seems in order. Any advice will be great fully accepted. Thanks. You are describing a "whisker" issue... The truck is "stuck" by the whisker contact and is causing the spring loaded effect when you touch the truck. If it's brand new Micro-Trains will repair it at no charge. But you have to ship it back to MTL in Oregon. Thanks for the info. Sadly, shipping back to the USA is going to be prohibitively expensive, so Im going to have to repair it myself. Thanks also for the other comments - its been a fun project so far, with many more hours left in it!
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Post by theflyingrhodesian on Dec 18, 2016 17:00:10 GMT -5
If you watch closely, the loco stutters around the curve to the left. The loco will only run as shown with the rear wheels 'cocked' - by that I mean I have the rear left wheel hanging outboard of the track. If placed with all wheels on the track correctly, it will not run unless on a left hand curve! I have had the loco apart, to check the brushes and all seems in order. Any advice will be great fully accepted.
Thanks.
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Post by theflyingrhodesian on Dec 18, 2016 16:53:32 GMT -5
Heres a quick video clip of the train running:
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Post by theflyingrhodesian on Dec 18, 2016 16:19:43 GMT -5
Hi Fellas As a little background, I have been modelling in HO/OO for a number of years and have a fairly large layout in my loft. This idea came to me after watching a youtube clip about a coffee table layout about a month ago. I got onto my layout planning software and drew a plan up for a layout to for onto a 5ft x 2.5ft board. After cutting the baseboard to size, I discovered that my 'coffee table' was in fact the size of a small dining table! The board was reduced to a more coffee table sized 4.5ft x 2.3ft - not much of a reduction, but the table will now fit in my lounge! The layout plan is shown below. Min radius is 195mm - The original plan was to have 220mm as a minimum, but the smaller size meant tighter corners. The Yellow track is the upper loop 50mm above the base and the purple track is on the baseboard. White is the base level, Green is 50mm up and light blue is terrain above that, up to 120mm above base. All track is Peco flex track and the layout will be under a glass table top built into an oak table. I wanted easy running, so there are no points. I am using DC, with a Rocuhan RC02 controller powering both tracks. Trains will run in opposite directions around the loops. As I live in the UK, I initially thought of Märklin, but after researching the topic, it seems the US has much better Z scale trains. I used Zscale Monster Trains for the first purchase, and opted for a MTL F7 and 4 Nose-art Series wagons.
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