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Post by Deleted on Apr 19, 2020 13:41:43 GMT -5
To Husafreak : Look at the third post in this thread ; You don't need the 2 resistors and the 2 Led's, which reflect the position of the switch, and not the real position of the turnouts. The capacitors don't manage the delay, You could switch back and forth very quickly (and kill the turnouts) ; the delay is managed by the software in the Atmel processor, compiled from GC Basic ( "wait 500 ms" after each "flipping" ), to avoid overloading the power supply : 6A seem to be just enough for my group of 4 turnouts, no other group should flip simultaneously.
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 19, 2020 20:40:27 GMT -5
Before trying the Snapper, I corresponded with Steve Worack @ Circuitron and explained what I was wanting to do. Yes the machine is designed for twin coil, but provides a nice "snap" of current that consistently throws the points like I need it to. I have 3 double crossovers and 14 standard turnouts. Other than the double crossovers, I am only operating one or two at a time. I will check back later to give an update on how it is going, but I am thrilled. I know that a genuine Rokuhan controller is the best solution for their own turnouts, but if you have more than a half dozen to operate it gets awkward. I like the schematic style panel so I can visually control my routes. Some of the solutions posted here seem cool, but I wore my self out soldering 6 wires on each DPDT switch 14 times over and was not up for the anything else.
As for my use of the Snapper, it's simple the two feed wires for the turnout control panel run to the incoming wire of the Circuitron Snapper and the output feeds the buss for my switches. Supper simple and effective. I will update my wiring diagram and post it tomorrow for anyone who wants to go this route.
If I do anything else it will be to DCC the whole setup and use an old Android tablet to control them CTC style. But I have enough $$$ tied up in this old coffee table now as it is.
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Post by husafreak on Apr 20, 2020 23:22:33 GMT -5
Soooo, the Circuitron is the power supplyt for the turnouts and the DPDT switches control the turnouts. You only need one Circuitron and as many DPDT switches as needed so that each point, or pair of points where applicable, has its own DPDT switch? Thus making the cost to control the turnouts just the cost of the DPDT switch, with one Snapper and its power supply for the entire layout? Yes a simple wiring diagram would be great, thanks.
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 21, 2020 10:03:08 GMT -5
The Circuitron Snapper is not a power supply. You route your AC output from the accessory terminal through it to the switches. See the wiring diagram.
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Post by BAZman on Apr 21, 2020 17:03:16 GMT -5
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Post by husafreak on Apr 22, 2020 22:30:28 GMT -5
Thanks Tim, I admit to being a blockhead with electronics, anything beyond "solder this to that" messes me up. So I had seen and read the Circuitron diagrams and instructions but I didn't "see" the DPDT switches that operate the track switches. At this point and with your diagram I would be comfortable buying the parts and trying it for myself. Again, thanks!
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Post by BAZman on Apr 23, 2020 13:08:39 GMT -5
Make sure the DPDT switch is ‘Momentary’ and ‘Center Off’. This would be advertised as: On-Off-On or DPDT-CO however, this does not truly define the ‘On’ as momentary.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 23, 2020 13:29:57 GMT -5
Most time the momentary switches are named (On)-Off-(On). But in this case You don't have any feedback for the position of the turnouts. For that reason the Kato system is better, especially for "manual" control : You can use "normal" two-position (one pole) switches, but You need to flip at least once all switches after power on to ensure that the turnouts are "synchronized" with the switches ... and the Led's are not necessary.
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Post by modelwarships on Apr 23, 2020 22:47:32 GMT -5
I have been documenting my progress here. I included a pic of the DPDT switches I am using.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2021 3:33:45 GMT -5
Finally I took a glance at the picture of Noch's control module #60264 and the capacitor (re-charged via the "big" vertical resistor) is 1mF, the module should be powered up to 16V DC. And there is the voltage loss due to the transistors : 2 x 0.7V, examine the elements which look like power transistoirs, but they have 2 rows of connections, so I think they contain a pair of complementary transistors which connect the output either to Vcc or Gnd, and two of them make a H-bridge. I hope that with 1.2mF and 12V I will be on the "safe" side ...
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