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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2017 17:14:50 GMT -5
And the risk of damaging the ballast ? That was the reason why I wanted to solder the feeders to the joiners. Because all parts on my layout would be easily accessible, I think I will try for the first time to put only feeders every 5 or 7 sections (to the joiners), if a contact problem occurs I can correct it can try to deform the joiner which causes the problem, pushing with a little screwdriver, or not ? And I can make the top of my mountain removable, mask the junction (I will glue "Roofmate" over plywood, this one as a lid) and only cut the coating when a problem occurs ... I hope not too often ! Please wish me good luck for my electronic switch (I will post the complete schematics and values of the components once it works) and my four trains to come : 1) An Amtrak California train. 2) A "shortened" version of the Barnum train (MTL) with a SD70M, Union Pacific. 3) Two GP38-2's, UP or BNSF (if available) with beer reefers (I saw them still in service todays) and the black or brown BNSF 100-ton hoppers (by Full Throttle). Thanks again for Your ideas ... and Your patience ! Now the time has come to me for building ...
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Post by markm on Feb 28, 2017 20:22:57 GMT -5
Alberich, It will be interesting to see what you come up with, but we don't wish good luck, we rely upon it! If you are looking for any prototype inspiration, the prototypes for all the models you mention would run between Emeryville and Stockton California (coastal hills with tunnels into flat farmland) and from Stockton south to Bakersfield (flat farmland with oil drilling/pumping operations near Bakersfield). I've found that the Z scale rail joiners and track do a good job conducting power without solder, but I would suggest considering solder in some of the inaccessible place on the layout. Actually there are opportunities with the Rokuhan track: The flex track (top) is a "some assembly required" product. One could easily solder to the bare rails and assemble the roadbed around the wires. The 110mm & 220mm straight track have a slit where the roadbed pushes out for the Rokuhan connector system. With a heat sink on the rail for each side of the slot you can solder safely and slide the roadbed back in place when the rails cool. As I'm still experimenting with this idea, I don't have a good recommendation other than drilling a hole for the wire. You can use wire on the rail joiners, but it's a bit tricky. You need to have the bend in the wire in the exact center of the joiner. Remove the road bed joiner and drill a hole for the wire in it's exact center and no bigger than necessary. You have to work both the road bed and rail joiners on to a section at the same time. Hope this helps, Mark
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