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Post by gyroflyer on Nov 11, 2012 5:10:17 GMT -5
Hi,
I was just wondering, those who have built any of the Micron Art truss bridges, what is your preference for bonding? CA, epoxy, or soldering? I just bought one of their kits and am looking for different views/advise on the subject.
Since I’ve never built anything like this, it’s always good to learn from those who may have come up with something that others never thought of.
Thanks.
Mark
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Post by markm on Nov 11, 2012 11:14:37 GMT -5
Mark,
Personally, I like to solder, but I've got 50 years of experience at it. I wouldn't encourage soldering if you don't have a resistance solding station or an ultra-fine tip temperature controller solding iron. Also, I would suggest that you should have previous soldering experience, don't make your first attempt a Z scale bridge.
I also use the CA (thick and thin depending on location) and it works well. I've never tried epoxy, but I would think it would be hard to make a solid bond without leaving a bead.
I'm working on a couple of deck girder bridges from TrainCat and Micron. My technique here is to solder the "structural" joints (corners and ends) and use CA for the rest.
Hope this helps,
Mark
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Post by Ztrains on Nov 11, 2012 12:27:49 GMT -5
Beat me to the punch on this one Mark M! The first Micron Art truss bridge I built, I had planned on making every joint a solder joint. Once I began building the bridge though, I opted for the solder on the key structural points and CA on the rest. I originally though about a 2-part epoxy but I was mixing tiny batches, and it would begin to cure before I could get all the epoxy in place. I tried several CA blends and went with this from Loctite: www.loctiteproducts.com/p/sg_ug_cntrl/overview/Loctite-Super-Glue-ULTRA-Gel-Control.htmThey say it's "specially formulated rubber toughened instant adhesive that resists impact, shock, vibration and temperature extremes". I don't know about the specifics of the formula, but it worked out very well for me and it's my new, favorite CA now. Though not great step-by-step pics, here are a few images on the bridge in progress: www.zscalegallery.com/projects/bridge/bridge.htmlJohn Ztrains www.ztrains.com |
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Post by gyroflyer on Nov 11, 2012 22:47:36 GMT -5
Also, what is the preferred way to cut these small thin pieces off?
Mark
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Post by Ztrains on Nov 12, 2012 1:06:49 GMT -5
Mark, I've used single edge razors on a hard surface, like plexi or acrylic. Also a small flat jewelers file to knock off the remainder. I think I'll try these next time out, dedicated photo etch scissors: xuron.com/index.php/main/consumer_products/2/80Xuron makes great real cutters, I'd like to think these scissors are of the same high quality. John Ztrains www.ztrains.com |
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Post by gyroflyer on Nov 12, 2012 1:12:00 GMT -5
Thanks John, much appreciated. Looks like I have to buy a pair.
Mark
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Post by Ztrains on Nov 12, 2012 1:18:25 GMT -5
Glad to help Mark, The right tools make life so much easier. I just picked up a jewelers saw to cut my electrical gaps in some turnouts. Slick and easy with the saw, a nightmare without... I tried without first  John Ztrains www.ztrains.com |
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Post by Curn on Nov 12, 2012 2:47:04 GMT -5
I recently finished my bridge. I ended up going with 30 min epoxy and light ca glue. I used the ca glue on some details and to tack an hold the parts while the epoxy cured. The hardest part for me was putting the two bridge halfs together. Its about 36 pins and notches that need to be lined up when they come together. My best advice if you use epoxy is to start at one end and glue 3 sections, and let the epoxy cure overnight before going any further. When I tried to be more ambitious than that, as I went further down the bridge the first sections undid themselves. There are some globs of epoxy on the inside frame where hopefully no one will notice. Attachments:
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Post by gyroflyer on Nov 12, 2012 17:04:47 GMT -5
Curn, what a beautiful bridge layout. This is Z?
Mark
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Post by ztrack on Nov 12, 2012 18:06:41 GMT -5
Curn great job on the bridge! Why yes it is Z! Here is the link to Micron-Art's website. The photo on the site is from a Z diorama John Cubbin. www.micronart.com/1081LongPratt.htmlRob |
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Post by gyroflyer on Apr 20, 2013 2:47:47 GMT -5
Ok, here's another question on soldering. Is it going to be a problem to solder with a Pencil Torch, or is an iron going to be a better choice?
Mark
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Post by markm on Apr 20, 2013 7:43:04 GMT -5
I think I'd avoid the Pencil Touch unless you have good skills with small soldering. I found them to be too much heat and too hard to control in the tight spaces you'll need to solder in.
I use a variable temperature, low-power soldering iron with a fine tip. I like the variable temperature because I can set it just above the solder melting point and minimize the heat into the model. Got mine from "the shack."
Mark
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